About to start a flathead V8

[vintrex]

I'm about to start a flathead V8 in a 1947. It is my first time starting a flathead as I am used to working on 60's motors. It appears to be the first time this motor has been started in a while. I have to re-assemble the distributor but any suggestions please let me know....

[Tinker]

Fresh oil. drop pan and open intake. Clean it out.

[Mart]

No different than any other engine. Check it has oil and water. Spin it over with plugs out to check it has oil pressure. Check for spark. Put plugs in. A shot of fuel down the carb and go for it.

Edit: maybe you should tell us when it was last run, it might make a difference to the advice offered (After reading post above).

Mart.

[chap52]

With the plugs out can you turn it over by hand using a socket and breaker bar on the front pulley nut? Did you drain the old oil? Was there water in it or anything else that didn't belong there? Those cylinders no doubt are dry and maybe a bit rusted. I would take a oil squirt can and with the plugs out squirt a little oil in each plug hole. Squirt it up on the valves and down into the cylinders also.
If your purpose for starting it is just to say "it started" and you plan on taking it out and going through the whole engine that would have a bearing on how you proceed. If your ready to fire it up and drive it as is if possible I would take all the preparatory precautions to be sure those old rings have a little lubrication between them and the cylinder walls.
You may have to pour a bit of gas down the carb, remember these flatheads "flood" easily. Fully charged battery, fire extinguisher and do it outside of your shop/garage as a precaution.
This will be one of the greatest moments of your project adventure. Make it a safe one and please keep up posted. Chap

[rotorwrench]

I'd do a compression check first to make sure that there are no stuck valves or other cylinder problems. After your distributor is reinstalled you can check for good spark. If the fuel system is ready to go and lubricants are in place then go for it.

[vintrex]

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10-4, i'll put it on the list.

[vintrex]

Thanks Chap,

That was very informative and helpful. My goal is to see if the motor will start and then run smoothly and well after that. I will make sure after reading your post to do a lot more slow and methodical prep work before attempting to start. I have posted one picture of the motor but unfortunately every time I have tried to post others that have failed to upload for some reason. I do have to replace the radiator hoses as one appears to be heavily charred and I think that whole "fire thingy" he has possibly happened once before. I will keep you up-to-date and try to continue to upload photos. Currently I am looking at Mac's for parts but does anyone know of other resources?

[34pickup]

Here is what I did to the one I just got. I pulled the plugs and fogged oil into each cylinder and let it set about a few days. I had to rebuild the carb and get a new fuel pump because they were full of hardened old fuel. I checked the oil to make sure it was sufficient. I then hit the starter to see if it would turn over. It did so then I replaced the oil and filter, gave it some gas and ether, and she cranked and ran.
Your photos are probably too large to upload. I have to go back and edit mine, sometimes you just need to go to edit and crop the sides down a bit, save the photo and try to upload it again.

[chap52]

Sometimes pictures are too large and need to be resized. You can always try just loading one at a time. There have been several posts on how to do both tasks.
Caution: Starting one of these flatheads for the fist time can cause face pain from the grin you instantly develop. Be ready to explain the goofy look on your face to those who see you before it fades away. Chap

[vintrex]

I will definitely try everything as I want this to go as smooth as possible.

[vintrex]

This is the motor in its current glory

[vintrex]

Ha! I found my distributor.....anyone know of a reassembly video ?

[34pickup]

Vanpeltsales has a lot of good information on their web site.


http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...r_1945to48.JPG






,

[Ritzy1]

Vintrex, I'll second the suggestion that you visit VanPelt Sales' website: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/. It's a wealth of information and parts. Here's a link to their recommended start-up procedure: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_startup.htm. Good luck!

[paul2748]

If you haven't worked on the early distributors before, you might want to think about sending it to one who is expert on them. Jim Linder (Bubba) comes to mind. He posts here

[JSeery]

I would box it up and send it to Bubba.

[fordwife]

It looks like you have one distributor minus cap, condenser and rotor and parts of another.

[vintrex]

Yep!���� The cap is still under the hood.

[vintrex]

I will try to make contact with Jim.

[vintrex]

Ok, so to even get close to a point where I could think of giving this motor a twirl I have to take care of the distributor which we talked about already. The radiator hoses are shredded and even look to be somewhat charred. So, on that note has anyone used any particular kit that has worked well or are flex hoses pretty much the "go to". I measured it at approximately 25" so they are fairly long.

Next, distributor cap and wire sets...? I would like to know what has worked well for others so I don't waste funds...

Eventually I would like to gravitate towards 12v but if that isn't recommended please also advise...

[Mike in AZ]

Mind look into converting the distributor to crab style cap. New cap, rotor, wires, clips to hold down crab cap. Have fun with your flathead. Mike

[B-O-B]

Bob Drake has a nice set of one piece radiator hoses. They have the correct bends for your engine.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by vintrex

Ok, so to even get close to a point where I could think of giving this motor a twirl I have to take care of the distributor which we talked about already. The radiator hoses are shredded and even look to be somewhat charred. So, on that note has anyone used any particular kit that has worked well or are flex hoses pretty much the "go to". I measured it at approximately 25" so they are fairly long.

Next, distributor cap and wire sets...? I would like to know what has worked well for others so I don't waste funds...

Eventually I would like to gravitate towards 12v but if that isn't recommended please also advise...

Were do you want to be?

Lot's to think about when going through a motor. Hows your compression or bearings? Not even thinking about brakes and stopping...

If you just want to get up and running. Stay 6v and get the systems that are there already clean and ready to run. Most likely it'll run for a few or 70 more years. Burnouts excluded.

Most of the general supply places have hoses and dizzy parts.

If you know where you want to be electronically and feel you know what you want out of the engine. You can make a plan.

If you want to have fun driving it as is... clean the oil pan, block, rad, and send the coil and dizzy off to skip and bubba. Chase or replace wire harnesses as needed.


If you want to go whole hog. Start talking to rebuilders and buying parts.


I picked up a 36 coupe 5yrs ago that needed everything to complete it. But I replaced a burnt exhaust valve for $7 (compression good outside that cylinder, oil pressure nice), recored the radiator, replaced all the electric, rebuilt the coil (skip), did the dizzy (bubba), and went through the rest of it. Been driving it ever since. Took about 6 months to be road worthy. It's no luxury air ride deal or tire burner, but I like it.

[G.M.]

Remove spark plugs, put a little MMO in the cylinders and a rag over the holes
so you don't make a big mess. I would have a mechanical oil pressure gauge
on it. Spin with 12 volts to the starter. The pressure you read will be what you
have at 45 MPH. If the pressure is real low the front bypass or the pump
spring may be weak. G.M.

[vintrex]

i was going to change out my wires with a new set of uncut 8mm and wondered if 6v would be a problem....has anyone had issues with similar?

[47COE]

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Your car will run fine with a 6 volt system. Only reason to switch to 12 volt would be that you want to run some 12 volt devices.

The 47 uses a rabbit ears distributor cap. I tried switching to a crab distributor cap but found that it is affected by moisture and will run rough or just plain not run. So I switched back to the rabbit ears.

Sending the distributor to Bubba's along with new plugs, wires, caps and rotor would be a good idea for long term reliability.

[B-O-B]

Originally Posted by 47COE

Your car will run fine with a 6 volt system. Only reason to switch to 12 volt would be that you want to run some 12 volt devices.

The 47 uses a rabbit ears distributor cap. I tried switching to a crab distributor cap but found that it is affected by moisture and will run rough or just plain not run. So I switched back to the rabbit ears.

Sending the distributor to Bubba's along with new plugs, wires, caps and rotor would be a good idea for long term reliability.

47 did you try spraying the crab with WD 40?

[Drbrown]

Looks like someone already changed-out your OE distributor for a good-old crabby. I second having Bubba (or Charlie NY) do you distributor and recommend staying with the stock points set up. My '47 came with an electronic unit in the distributor but had so much trouble with burn-outs I converted back to stock points (very pricey experience) .... all good ever since.