Installing Powemaster Alternator-Generator Look-a-like

[pgerhardt]

I got the Poweremaster Alternator-Generator Look-a-like installed in my tudor yesterday. It was not an easy job. But then that fit my over all rule for everything: "It's never easy!" There were two main problems.

Problem one: The alternator contacts the lower radiator hose with the stock fan belt. You will need to change to a slightly smaller one. Here is a link to the one you will need: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Problem two: Now you can’t get the tighter belt over the alternator pulley. I solved the problem by removing the tensioning arm bracket from the alternator. The original generator did not have one anyway. I was not going to use one, but then decided to use the separate tensioning arm that was used with the old alternator since it looked similar to a period accessory.

Anyway without the bracket the alternator could move a little closer to the engine. That, along with jacking up the engine & lower pulley a little (which I had to do anyway to get the old fan belt off) allowed me to get it done.

IMPORTANT: You MUST install the alternator bolt with the bolt head toward the radiator, and the nut/washers toward the firewall. (Don't ask how I know that! )

Whew! What a job!

It is all done now. It looks good, and seems to be working well.

[RawhideKid]

Very nicely done. Thanks for the heads-up on the bolt. Now, just be sure you don't have that belt too tight as it will wear out the bushings in the water pump.

[California Travieso]

That looks period correct. Nice job.

Although it does not look original, has anyone tried Cling's serpentine belt system with an alternator? They claim it makes it easier to change the belt and puts less pressure on the water pump.

http://www.clingsaftermarket.com/ima...s/img9000a.jpg

David Serrano

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by RawhideKid

Very nicely done. Thanks for the heads-up on the bolt. Now, just be sure you don't have that belt too tight as it will wear out the bushings in the water pump.

Can anyone tell me what the recommended deflection on the fan belt should be?
Thanks

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

I got the Poweremaster Alternator-Generator Look-a-like installed in my tudor yesterday.

Looks good. Did you use the 6v or 12v PowerGEN?

I have been looking at them but I can't justify the cost... yet. Right now I have a GM si 12v alternator which works great, I just don't like the looks.

There is a guy in one of the local clubs that does alternators in a generator case. I'm going to look him up when I get ready (and have the FUND$) to compare price.

Another option I am considering is using a stock generator with a Fun Projects cut out/regulator. I don't know if it puts out enough power tho.

Anyway, yours looks good and thanks for sharing your tips and fan belt info.

[RawhideKid]

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Originally Posted by pgerhardt

Can anyone tell me what the recommended deflection on the fan belt should be?
Thanks

You only need the belt tight enough to turn the alternator. I can't give you a deflection distance.

[1931 flamingo]

How often are you going to be changing a fan belt??
Paul in CT

[1929]

I was lucky, mine went on easy.

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by y-blockhead

looks good. Did you use the 6v or 12v powergen?

6v

[1929]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

6v

I bought the 6 volt and doubled the ground.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Pgerhardt,
I can sympathize with you, when we get "OLD" & out of "stride", even a simple job can be a BITCH---NLOL
Once, I put the bolt in from the rear & it rubbed the belt!
On engines with one BIG pulley, force it over that one LAST.
One of the tool trucks used to sell a tool, for "persuading" the belt onto the pulley, "better" than a screwdriver or a cotter key hook.
Bill Awkward

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

Can anyone tell me what the recommended deflection on the fan belt should be?
Thanks

I'd say 1" kinda standard that's what I go by on all my older vehicles.

[eagle]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I'd say 1" kinda standard that's what I go by on all my older vehicles.

I don't know what deflection I use. I tighten it just enough so it feels "right". If its too loose it'll slip. Not all belts squeel when slipping, but the pulley will get hot if it is slipping. An alternator will pull harder than a generator because it puts out more current typically so check it periodically.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

One of the tool trucks used to sell a tool, for "persuading" the belt onto the pulley, "better" than a screwdriver or a cotter key hook.
Bill Awkward

Aw, the old Hemorrhoid Hook... A tool good for a lot of uses, but I always preferred a pair of dykes to pull cotter pins.

[Dick So. Cal.]

Reply #6 is what I use. I don't want to overload the waterpump bearing.

Also, check the restoration standards for radiator hose clamp orientation (Chapter 3).
Both pictures in this thread show improper orientation. This is a common thing. . .

Dick

[Chris Haynes]

Put the belt on the pulley before installing the mounting bolt.

[quickchange]

who sells them & cost please , Derek in a cold wet NZ

[mdsbob]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Powerm...lt,229559.html

[katy]

IMPORTANT: You MUST install the alternator bolt with the bolt head toward the radiator, and the nut/washers toward the firewall.

I do that but I use a rod coupling nut, being longer it makes it easier to get the wrench on it.

[mdsbob]

Originally Posted by 1929

I bought the 6 volt and doubled the ground.

What was your logic behind "doubling the ground"?