1947 Ford Coupe tips

[RCM]

Hi there.
Since this is my first post, first of all I’d like to congratulate the Forum Barn for being such a great resource. I’ve been keeping up with you for a while now without registering because, honestly, I didn’t have a solid reason to. Now I do. I own and daily drive a 1968 Opel Rekord 1.9S that I possibly will trade for a 1947 Ford Coupe. So I’ll be switching continents on to what car manufacturers are concerned and also, by taking this step, I’ll be lacking all the specific knowledge that I have and that others close to me have concerning old and more current European vehicles. What I want to ask from The Barn are suggestions on what to look at on the car. Aside the obvious things I’ll be inspecting, are there any recurrent mechanical issues that might be noticed only by the experienced, or any signs that should keep me away from buying?
Here’s a photo.

Thanks a lot and keep up the good work.

[jake197000]

basicly ck it over like any other car.if you can take it for a long enough drive to see how hot it runs that would be nice.if it idles smooth and doesn't tick knock or smoke the eng is most likely fine.a litte lifter tick wouldn't scare me though.these cars are pretty tough and simple.if you cant test drive it and its been idle fot a long time.any thing goes.

[Ralph Moore]

It looks to me like you can't go wrong trading an Opel for a 47 coupe. Especially that one pictured.

[George/Maine]

I bought a 47 just recently and didn't sound bad and had no signs of bearing rap.
When I got to drive it at high speed you could hear the bearing. Started to rap about 1500 rpms. When you wind it up in first ,rap to 2nd rap and let off in 3nd 50pmh it raps. I luck the car seems much heaver then my 39 sedan. I just started to replace the engine with a 53 8rt truck engine and hope this engine works better.
pic.

[Old Henry]

As has been said, a long test drive would be invaluable listening for any strange sounds in the engine, transmission, rear end, etc. Watch the gauges to see if they seem to work and are accurate. Then a compression test would show some about the condition of the combustion chambers. If you could get the front end off the ground and try wiggling the front wheels vertically to see if the king pins are badly worn that would be good too. They're a bear to replace.

[RCM]

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Hey there guys. I really appreciate the input. I guess those are the main topics I’ll have to cover. I’ll sure keep an eye out for the knocking and also for the smoke: bad piston rings = poor compression= oil being burned = smoke = bad news. If the deal is done, this will be a significant step towards what I aim for, that being to own and maintain a golden era American Ford vehicle. I guess that in 20 years having a functional flathead will be a privilege. The cars I had until now have allowed me to learn the basics of car mechanics. Also I kept trading each for a better one so that I now have a vehicle of some value that I can trade for the desired Fordy without having to put in a substantial amount of cash. I’ve gotta be honest with you guys tough, it is not my goal to restore the Ford to a pristine condition. I guess that would erase what to some of us is one of the most valuable things on this great old machines: the touch of time. What I want is to conserve it and keep it running. That’s what they were built for.
I’m gonna meet the owner next Tuesday. I’ll keep you updated.
Thanks.

[waterboychuck]

One thing that I can say is that it's a complete car. You can get in it, start it, drive it, and maybe even stop. It looks like a great start and you can fix things as you go along.
A very nice find.

[Chris Nelson]

RCM; one other test that will tell you about the valves is a vacuum test. If the needle swings more than a couple inches of vacuum, you may have bad valves. Sometimes it is worth having a competent mechanic check out the engine for you if you don't have the experience necessary to evaluate what is going on inside. The car looks good on the outside. Hopefully it is as good on the inside.

[59ab]

Welcome to the Barn! My first car was a black '47 coupe. Yours looks like a good car. Good luck!
Eddie

[ford38v8]

RCM, Welcome to Early Ford V8's! From the single picture you've posted, that car is either a very well protected survivor, or it has been "restored" at some point in its history. I would want to verify one or the other, because a lot of sins can get covered up in "freshening up" a car. So my advice to you as to what to look for is to look for concealed rust repair, the quality of which can be a window into the overall condition and value.

Note to George/Maine: You illustrate your purchase of a '47 with a picture of a '46?

[GaryTx]

Early 47 Fords looked like the 46. So George's is probably correct that it's a 47..

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by GaryTx

Early 47 ford looked like the 46. So George's is probably correct that it's a 47..

Ya, that explains it!

[George/Maine]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

RCM, Welcome to Early Ford V8's! From the single picture you've posted, that car is either a very well protected survivor, or it has been "restored" at some point in its history. I would want to verify one or the other, because a lot of sins can get covered up in "freshening up" a car. So my advice to you as to what to look for is to look for concealed rust repair, the quality of which can be a window into the overall condition and value.

Note to George/Maine: You illustrate your purchase of a '47 with a picture of a '46?

Its and early 47 , found the id number and its 47.

[ford38v8]

George, Depending on your frame of mind, I guess it can get interesting or just a drag to have to explain to every nut about the vintage!

[RCM]

Hi. Thanks for the tips and support. I’ll be checking on the car tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully it’s a driver. I say hopefully because I hope all goes well with this one. I’d hate to hear the owner saying that it can’t be driven because the battery is dead or because it has bad spark plugs or whatever other bad excuse. I’m getting edgy on this one, does it notice? I wonder if I’ll be able to sleep tonight…
I’ll update this thread as soon as possible.
Keep it up.

[old kid 70]

Hi RMC

Would you tell us where you found the id # on the car? The first car I ever owned was a 47 that looked like that. Took it with me while stationed at fort bragg in 1953 & zipped home to Ct. every chance I got. It was a sweet ford that never let me down. Good luck with yours.

[RCM]

Hi Old Kid.
I'm gonna check on the car later today and then I'll tell you the id# on the car, ok?
Keep it up.

[RCM]

Hey there.
The car is aparently ok. I didn't get to drive it tough and they didnt even start it for me. The thing is the owner had to leave and left only a guy to show it to me. The car didnt have a battery, which is not a very good sign.
Anyway it looks well kept but I have to drive it. I'm gonna arrange for it and keep you updated.

@ oldkid: 99A-981 905. Rings any bell? Where can I find out a bit more about the car?

Thanks

[waterboychuck]

Do you have any idea when the 47 last ran? If you don't know then take a battery and a small gas can with you. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank and run a hose from the gas can to the carb and hook up the battery. See what happens then.

It just sounds a little fishy that the owner had to go somewhere when he knew that you were coming to look at the car.

The serial number is located on the drivers (left) side on the upper part of the frame close to the firewall.

[woodiewagon46]

Once you get the car and I hope you do, send away to the V-8 Club of America and purchase the 1941 to 1948 book. It is a wealth of info, even if you are going to street rod the car.