pricing help on Model A engine and parts

[Jackie Brown]

I'm selling parts off my Model a coupe I don't need. Would someone (who doesn't need them) LOL help me arrive at a fair price. Of course, I need all I can get. The engine has been fully rebuilt, bored .020, new crank, all bearings rebabbitted and machined, new valves, hardened seats, and springs. Runs great with very little running time. I have a complete build sheet with receipts. New clutch, PP, and throwout bearing. Trans shifts smooth.

Also selling the rear end, hub to hub. Probably gonna use the buggy spring. I will sell engine and trans complete or separate. Thanks.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Jackie Brown

I'm selling parts off my Model a coupe I don't need. Would someone (who doesn't need them) LOL help me arrive at a fair price. Of course, I need all I can get. The engine has been fully rebuilt, bored .020, new crank, all bearings rebabbitted and machined, new valves, hardened seats, and springs. Runs great with very little running time. I have a complete build sheet with receipts. New clutch, PP, and throwout bearing. Trans shifts smooth.

Also selling the rear end, hub to hub. Probably gonna use the buggy spring. I will sell engine and trans complete or separate. Thanks.

The engine, albeit Rebuilt is actually a "used" engine IMO since it has been started/run. Therefore lets start at ½ of what a rebuilt engine costs and go from there. Who did the rebuild and are they willing to transfer any warranty? How long ago did this rebuilt take place? A new crank could mean it is a SCAT or Burlington, -but maybe just a NOS crank?? That defintely increases the worth. Since you have a copy of the build sheet/receipts, this should give you decent starting point.

The transmission prices out in the same manner. Knowing whether the transmission is freshly rebuilt with new gears, shafts, & bearings makes it more valuable than one that has been inspected and then reassembled. Prices on complete transmissions that have a 90 day warranty usually start at $350 and one that has been completely restored from top to bottom with all new parts will be in the $1,100.00 range.

Rear ends that are cores usually retail for $150.00, a good used one (minus brakes) with a warranty will retail in the $500.00 range, and a completely rebuilt one with all new parts (minus brakes) will retail for about $2,300.00.

Hopefully this helps??

[Jackie Brown]

Thanks Brent. The engine was rebuilt by Piranio's Antique Automotive in Celina, Tx. eight years ago and has been run very little since. The rear end as far as I know is stock.

[Chris in WNC]

Jackie, it would be very helpful for you to list your city & state with your name at the left or at least within a posting such as this.
your parts will mostly only be of interest to someone who's a reasonable drive away; although I have occasionally sold HEAVY parts to people far far away......

[Charlie Stephens]

Jackie,

Without your location I can't tell if I am someone that doesn't need them or a potential customer. Where are you located?

Charlie Stephens

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Originally Posted by Chris in WNC

Jackie, it would be very helpful for you to list your city & state with your name at the left or at least within a posting such as this.
your parts will mostly only be of interest to someone who's a reasonable drive away; although I have occasionally sold HEAVY parts to people far far away......

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Jackie,

Without your location I can't tell if I am someone that doesn't need them or a potential customer. Where are you located?

Charlie Stephens

He did, ....Walnut, Mississippi;


https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98246

.

[Chris in WNC]

not in this thread he didn't........... :-)

[Jackie Brown]

Fellers,
I'm back! I live near Corinth, Mississippi literally on the Ms/Tn line. I can ship parts by UPS or truck freight if needed. Took the front fenders off today. They're usable but not the best. Thanks,
Jackie

[Terry, NJ]

Jackie, With four posts to your credit and a cut up coupe, I suspect your building a hot rod and parting out the excess. If you're going to chop the roof and getting rid of any body tin, I might be interested. Please consider me. [email protected]

[Jackie Brown]

email sent

[newshirt]

Is this another "chop up a perfectly good Model A" thread?

It seems they are coming with regularity. This one isn't specific, but it sounds like it.

[Mitch//pa]

Pm sent

[Jackie Brown]

Newshirt,
This one is staying just like Henry built it! Well, close anyway. No chop, no channel. LOL

[Uncle Bob]

Each buyer has his own criteria for determining value, and some hardware will vary in value based on what region of the country its in. That being said, the numbers Brent put up are relatively realistic. BUT, you have to look at what you present through the eyes of a buyer to be realistic.

If you're not a well know rebuilder with a reputation, especially one worth preserving, then the buyers will put you in the same category as any other seller. If the engine is sitting on the floor, and you're un-willing/able to to fire it up, or allow the head and pan to be removed for thorough inspection, then it's functionally not much more valuable than a core engine. Yeah, you've got paperwork, but folks are wary of crooks in the hobby, and unless there is some way to differentiate yourself from those guys, you're selling from a disadvantage. You may know yourself to be honest, but how will the buyer know that. Many sellers will think, "I'm not going to take the head off a good running engine!", and the buyer is thinking "What's he hiding?". Just something to think about.

Just one example. A bit over a year ago I bought a complete yard drivable, bodyless restored chassis with a rebuilt engine, trans, and rear like you describe. Plus it had all new brakes, a radiator, and battery. The fasteners were all in original finish, i.e. it wasn't a quicky bomb can restoration. I was able to run and drive it to evaluate condition, not just trust the word of the seller. I was able to buy it for a bit less than what you're asking in your attached ad, most likely because the seller wasn't getting any potential buyers or I'd offered a bit more than any others. Was it "luck" or good timing on my part? Perhaps, or, more likely it's reflective of demand and trust from a buyers point of view. You're not crazy high on your asking price, but if you hear crickets, or get more than one offer well off your pricing then there's a message in that.

[Ross/Kzoo]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Each buyer has his own criteria for determining value, and some hardware will vary in value based on what region of the country its in. That being said, the numbers Brent put up are relatively realistic. BUT, you have to look at what you present through the eyes of a buyer to be realistic.

If you're not a well know rebuilder with a reputation, especially one worth preserving, then the buyers will put you in the same category as any other seller. If the engine is sitting on the floor, and you're un-willing/able to to fire it up, or allow the head and pan to be removed for thorough inspection, then it's functionally not much more valuable than a core engine. Yeah, you've got paperwork, but folks are wary of crooks in the hobby, and unless there is some way to differentiate yourself from those guys, you're selling from a disadvantage. You may know yourself to be honest, but how will the buyer know that. Many sellers will think, "I'm not going to take the head off a good running engine!", and the buyer is thinking "What's he hiding?". Just something to think about.

Just one example. A bit over a year ago I bought a complete yard drivable, bodyless restored chassis with a rebuilt engine, trans, and rear like you describe. Plus it had all new brakes, a radiator, and battery. The fasteners were all in original finish, i.e. it wasn't a quicky bomb can restoration. I was able to run and drive it to evaluate condition, not just trust the word of the seller. I was able to buy it for a bit less than what you're asking in your attached ad, most likely because the seller wasn't getting any potential buyers or I'd offered a bit more than any others. Was it "luck" or good timing on my part? Perhaps, or, more likely it's reflective of demand and trust from a buyers point of view. You're not crazy high on your asking price, but if you hear crickets, or get more than one offer well off your pricing then there's a message in that.

You did a very good job of describing how a potential buyer feels!

[Jackie Brown]

Uncle Bob, you're my kind of people!
Jackie

[Tom/Ms]

Am interested in purchasing engine for my Model A. Please call me, 901-299-4053. Thank you.
Tom Kuntz, Byhalia, MS