The Ford Barn

MrWzrd · 10-29-2013, 11:48 AM

Let me see if I got this right...

On my 28, with a single bulb headlight and no cowl lights... I have the choice of the following switch positions ?

7 o'clock - parking (which seems to be just the taillight)
6 o'clock - off
5 o'clock - headlights (high or low depending on which wire I connect and which way the bulb is inserted)

If this is correct, then why the wiring for "high" and "low" headlights as well as a socket and bulb that supports two filaments, if the switch will only work with one??

Tom Wesenberg · 10-29-2013, 12:08 PM

The 1928 light switch and contacts plate are unique and not reproduced, therefore the contact plate is often swapped out with the newer style, which won't work correctly. I'll have to find the pictures I posted a few years ago.

MrWzrd · 10-29-2013, 12:13 PM

I have pictures of the 3 point wiper and the 4 point wiper.

The replacement that I just put in is the same 9 contact plate that was in there which I am gathering is not the same as the original.

Guess I'll just have to get creative if i'm going to drive at night.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-29-2013, 12:21 PM

Here you go, check my pictures in reply #6.

Give Bert's a call for the correct parts. 800-321-1931

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...8+light+switch

Tom Wesenberg · 10-29-2013, 12:39 PM

I bought my new CORRECT wiring harness from Sacremento Vintage Ford, as they make the harness in house and make it one piece that goes all the way to the drum taillight. Others sell a shorter narness and you have to use splice connectors. I have a NOS contact plate and will solder the new harness to it when I get to that stage.

MrWzrd · 10-29-2013, 01:36 PM

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I think I can make use of the 9 contact plate but with the 4 contact wiper I will end up with low-off-high. (and high will actually be both High AND Low)

From the contact side and using the notch in the contact plate as a 12 o'clock reference I need to move my wires to:

Power IN (yellow) - 2,3 or 4 (they are bonded on the contact plate)
Stop light (green) - 2,3 or 4 (they are bonded on the contact plate)
Tail Light (black) - 10,11, or 12 (they are bonded on the contact plate)
Low (green/black) - 8
High (red/black) 6

The high is usually on 7. The only problem will be that, on high, BOTH high and low will be on since the wiper will be connecting 2,6,8 and 12. If the load or the heat doesn't kill anything this may not be a bad thing.

Low connects 4,6,10 & 12 so I should get low and tail.

Off connects 1,5,7 & 11 and with the wires moved there is nothing connected to any of them and 1, 5 & 9 do not have contacts and are unused.

The only inconvenience and possible danger is switching between low and high requires going through off.

Rowdy · 10-29-2013, 01:41 PM

Rhode Island Wire also was making a correct harness for the 28's. I may still have a correct contact plate left. It will defiantely take some digging to find it. Rod

Ron in Quincy · 10-29-2013, 02:17 PM

The single headlight blub for the early switch was 21-3 candle power. In the park position the 3 candle side lighted as well as the taillight, in the on position the 21 candle power side lighted as well as the tail light. There was no high and low beam like the later 2 blub headlights.

The single blub headlights were used thru February 1929, these headlights used the fluted lens and the tail light is the drum style.

Ron

10-29-2013, 11:48 AM	#1
MrWzrd BANNED Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 158	Light Switch Let me see if I got this right... On my 28, with a single bulb headlight and no cowl lights... I have the choice of the following switch positions ? 7 o'clock - parking (which seems to be just the taillight) 6 o'clock - off 5 o'clock - headlights (high or low depending on which wire I connect and which way the bulb is inserted) If this is correct, then why the wiring for "high" and "low" headlights as well as a socket and bulb that supports two filaments, if the switch will only work with one??

10-29-2013, 12:08 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Light Switch The 1928 light switch and contacts plate are unique and not reproduced, therefore the contact plate is often swapped out with the newer style, which won't work correctly. I'll have to find the pictures I posted a few years ago.

10-29-2013, 12:13 PM	#3
MrWzrd BANNED Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 158	Re: Light Switch I have pictures of the 3 point wiper and the 4 point wiper. The replacement that I just put in is the same 9 contact plate that was in there which I am gathering is not the same as the original. Guess I'll just have to get creative if i'm going to drive at night.

10-29-2013, 12:21 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Light Switch Here you go, check my pictures in reply #6. Give Bert's a call for the correct parts. 800-321-1931 http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...8+light+switch

10-29-2013, 12:39 PM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Light Switch I bought my new CORRECT wiring harness from Sacremento Vintage Ford, as they make the harness in house and make it one piece that goes all the way to the drum taillight. Others sell a shorter narness and you have to use splice connectors. I have a NOS contact plate and will solder the new harness to it when I get to that stage.

10-29-2013, 01:36 PM	#6
MrWzrd BANNED Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 158	Re: Light Switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I think I can make use of the 9 contact plate but with the 4 contact wiper I will end up with low-off-high. (and high will actually be both High AND Low) From the contact side and using the notch in the contact plate as a 12 o'clock reference I need to move my wires to: Power IN (yellow) - 2,3 or 4 (they are bonded on the contact plate) Stop light (green) - 2,3 or 4 (they are bonded on the contact plate) Tail Light (black) - 10,11, or 12 (they are bonded on the contact plate) Low (green/black) - 8 High (red/black) 6 The high is usually on 7. The only problem will be that, on high, BOTH high and low will be on since the wiper will be connecting 2,6,8 and 12. If the load or the heat doesn't kill anything this may not be a bad thing. Low connects 4,6,10 & 12 so I should get low and tail. Off connects 1,5,7 & 11 and with the wires moved there is nothing connected to any of them and 1, 5 & 9 do not have contacts and are unused. The only inconvenience and possible danger is switching between low and high requires going through off.

10-29-2013, 01:41 PM	#7
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Light Switch Rhode Island Wire also was making a correct harness for the 28's. I may still have a correct contact plate left. It will defiantely take some digging to find it. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

10-29-2013, 02:17 PM	#8
Ron in Quincy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Quincy, CA. Posts: 1,708	Re: Light Switch The single headlight blub for the early switch was 21-3 candle power. In the park position the 3 candle side lighted as well as the taillight, in the on position the 21 candle power side lighted as well as the tail light. There was no high and low beam like the later 2 blub headlights. The single blub headlights were used thru February 1929, these headlights used the fluted lens and the tail light is the drum style. Ron