Starter switch

[FordTudor1931]

If you are getting a new starter switch from a Model A vendor, before you install it, make sure the power post is insulated from the body with a fiber washer. I just installed a new switch and when the battery was put in place there was fireworks to be had. It turns out that the power post on the starter switch grounded to the switch body on to the starter and on to the rest of the car. Quick and easy fix, but annoying when it happens

[Synchro909]

Gotta leave you wondering how much the makers of some of the crap hat is about understand highly technical stuff like the difference between an insulator and a conductor!

[Bob Bidonde]

I recall two significant problems with reproduction starter switches:

First, the copper used in the contact arm lacks the spring characteristic of the original. I believe the original arm was made of a beryllium copper alloy or a copper bronze alloy that was heat treated for to give it a springiness characteristic. Reproduction arms of soft copper will enable the contact to stick to the starter. I always replace the repro arm with a good used original arm;

Second, the original switch has a card-stock insulation that covers the vertical sides of the switch housing so the arm cannot ground itself on the housing. Some reproduction switches have an inadequate moisture-resistant card-stock insulator.

Before installing a starter switch, it is a good idea to see if there is electrical continuity between the electrical terminal and the switch body. If there is continuity, disassemble and reposition the terminal away from the switch housing.

[George Miller]

Always use a orginal switch. They will last for a long time. The repos that I have seen are junk. My policy is use original parts as much as possible. New is not always better.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by George Miller

Always use a orginal switch. They will last for a long time. The repos that I have seen are junk. My policy is use original parts as much as possible. New is not always better.

X2 on that! By the time tody's cars are as old as our Model As are now, they will have been recycled into about 4 Korean cars, 2 Chinese, a few microwave ovens and who knows what else.

[H. L. Chauvin]

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This starter switch problem surfaced several times years ago with many complaints on Forums and complaints to parts suppliers.

Only one (1) manufacturer was producing them, i.e., they were all made by "Vintique Inc.", (Made in U.S.A., A-11450, 1928/31 Starter Switch Assembly).

The "only" two (2) problems I found was with the top sheet metal body part which had a stamped round opening that was:

A. Far too tight fitting for the moving rod plunger; and,

B. this stamped opening was provided at an incorrect rod angle which was much more in the vertical position than that of the original rod angles on original starter switches.

When the starter rod was depressed, the plunger would get jammed and stuck in the downward position where the starter continued to operate after the engine started; hence, not enough clearance for the plunger to move up and down with the springing action of the non-ferrous bar hinged on the electrical connection bolt.

I elongated and reshaped this round opening in the top sheet metal body making it far more oval shaped to allow the moving threaded round plunger to move very "freely" and to be positioned at the same angle as the "moving" starter rod.

I still have the another new starter switch, same manufacturer, unwrapped and not modified ..... with the same top sheet metal orifice problem; i.e., the top body hole was incorrectly stamped where the plunger angle is too far in the vertical position, and the hole is round as opposed to oval and far too tight.

After this top body sheet metal modification, it has been working well & problem free for the past 10 years.

Hope this helps someone needing a new starter switch who may not be able to find original starter switches in their neighborhood.