Front Brake Drums

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Trojan:

You'll need a good 5/8 hole saw bit, cutting fluid, a good bright light and a strong drill.

The gist is you slide the hole saw down over the studs and slowly turn it with the drill. While watching, you'll see the swedge break loose from the hub. This is why the good, bright light is important. Stop drilling at that point. Go on to the next one.

Once all five are cut free, time to knock them out. I like to use a 10 lb. hand held mason's sledge. I also like to place an old piece of rail road track under the hub flange while driving the old ones out. Helps to keep a ham handed mechanic from bending the hub flange.

Use the studs Boling Bros. recommends on their site. Get the studs from Rock Auto. Best prices I've found. Just type in the Dorman part # in their search box.

You will need to ream out the stud holes on the hubs slightly. Once the hub is reamed (I forget how much larger, but go slow) To install the new, ridged studs, either buy a stud installer tool from a place from Rock Auto or use a large grade 8 washer placed over the stud. Run a lug nut down and tighten it with an impact. The gun will pull the stud into place and the ridges will "lock" it in.

It seems complicated and I was nervous the first time I did it. One you do one, it will make perfect sense and the job is fairly simple.

TROJAN .....Tim Ayers' explanation above is excellent! He has been doing this kind of stuff for eons like many of the rest of us. I'm only going to add one suggestion to Tim's detailed list. I like to use a short piece of pipe with an INSIDE DIAMETER slightly larger than the head on the 'inside-the-drum' end of the stud. Place the head of the stud in the hole of the piece of pipe, with the bottom end just long enough that the pipe supports the hub FLANGE when you tap the stud out with the hammer. Just remember that the hub's FLAT FLANGES can be bent very easily if not correctly supported. I ruined my first (and only) pair of hubs a little over 50 years ago when I just whanged those studs out of there....unsupported...with a BFH. Once you manage to bend one, it's virtually impossible to straighten. You learn quickly!

So that you might have a better understanding of exactly what you are trying to accomplish, below is a link to a site by Vince Falter with pictures of a swaged stud that needs to be removed, and in fact a new stud with a somewhat vague description of how to re-swage a NEW, stock stud....which YOU are NOT going to do. Link below!


http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm

Boling Bros. says this about studs:

"Lincoln style drum that works with our reproduction 1940 Ford style front (1106) and rear hubs (1116) and all of our 2" backing plate kits

These can also be used with original 1940-1941 Ford front and rear hubs by removing the original drum and studs, reaming the stud holes to .600, and installing Dorman 610-234 studs (MTSTUD)"

One last thing....I've heard it said that about 300 RPM (slow) is roughly the speed to run the 5/8" hole cutter. I would use a drill press if possible to control angle, and pressure. Good luck, and keep us informed. The MT drums are well-worth the wait until whenever Gary noted. DD

........

[Tim Ayers]

DD,

Thanks for the follow up. I agree about the drill press and just checked what RPM I had it set at since the last time I used it was to drill out some studs from old drums. I had it at 400 rpm and 300 may even be better. Also, don't skimp on the step of using cutting fluid or oil of some sort.

DD, I like your pipe idea. Makes sense. Hub flanges can be bent, so support them while driving out the stud.

Another thing I thought of is either clamp the drum or hold it somehow while drilling out the swedge. Every so ofter the bit catches and wants to spin the drum around.

I like to use Milwaukee hole saw bits. Last time I used a Lennox and they seemed to be made of rolled sheet metal. The tooth on the seam distorted and the bit is not round at all.