Any way to rotate crank from under a 50 Merc?

[Paul Bennett]

I would like to slowly rotate the crank on my engine from below. There seems to be some sheet metal preventing this and I don't want to start removing hardware only to find it's a lost cause when I get to the last bolt.

I understand to put a breaker bar with socket on the damper nut from above requires removing the generator, fan, and belts. And providing a human to be a turner helper for the micro rotation movements. Not having a handy helper person and desiring to observe micro movements of the crankshaft from below with a micrometer on magnetic holder as I turn and observe.

I've found a passage in the LM Workshop Manual which advocates pan removal as a trivial job and am about to undertake it ... now that my aerostar coil, shocks, and bump stop replacement are a done deal. (which at 80 I'm proud of accomplishing on my own). Can I rotate the crank using a tool in the flywheel teeth without endangering a broken or chipped tooth?

I would pull a head and make measurements from above but I'm determined to pull the pan to clean things anyway, my starter is already off, and I'm quite comforable with short naps under the car. (just joking about the naps)

FYI, I'm on this mission to ascertain the dubious nature of the crank in my Merc as it underwent an mysterious engine change at some time last century and has Ford markings including blue paint and an official Ford reman tag. A bit like knowing you were adopted cuz you are blue-headed so you undertake a DNA quest looking for your biological engine father (hopefully with a 4" stroke).

And who wants to drive a car when one can get satisfaction taking it apart and putting it back cleaner and newer than it was when you started.

[itsa52]

Dropping the flywheel cover will expose the flywheel, using a screw driver or a small pry bar you can engage a tooth , use the casting as a fulcrum and rotate it

[chap52]

With the pan off, remove the sparkplugs and either use the flywheel/pry bar method or I prefer to use the wooden handle of an old hammer or a large piece of wooden dowel to apply leverage to the crank throws to rotate the crank. You may be surprised and find that you can rotate by just using hand pressure on those "throws". Just be careful not to roll your hand up into the engine during the process. Don't ask how I know...

[19Fordy]

I know you said you are determined and want to pull your pan, but it sure would be a lot easier to pull one head if you are trying to find out if you have a 4 inch Merc crankshaft.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Paul Bennett

I understand to put a breaker bar with socket on the damper nut from above requires removing the generator, fan, and belts.

As an aside, not really.
Made up this tool years ago using cheap HF 3/8" ratchet and socket.
Fits down in between fan and crank pulley/damper?
Nothing to remove.

[rotorwrench]

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My 51 cars have the small deflector trays on the right and left just behind the radiator. A lot of folks took them off and discarded them when changing water pumps and the like. I don't know if removing either will help to get to the crank but it might. I just put a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut from underneath the car. You can't get to much of the flywheel on the early mid century Mercs 49 thru E51. The late 51 & later have a removable tray on the bottom of the bell but all you can remove on the earlier ones is the starter and starter plate. This doesn't give much access.

The big front cross member is a b!tch to work around. It's hard to do the crank seals with the motor out but with the motor in, you are going to have no fun at all. I'm not saying it can't be done but I wouldn't try it myself.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Here is a tool for rotating an engine that was made by Tom Wesenberg on the Fordbarn Model A Forum. If you do a lot of engine work it would be worthwhile to make one. All you need is a starter end plate, a Bendix gear and a nut and bolt.
Throw them together, weld the gear and nut to the bolt so they turn as one, take out the starter and replace it with this tool. Turn the engine with a rachet.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

Here is a tool for rotating an engine that was made by Tom Wesenberg on the Fordbarn Model A Forum. If you do a lot of engine work it would be worthwhile to make one. All you need is a starter end plate, a Bendix gear and a nut and bolt.
Throw them together, weld the gear and nut to the bolt so they turn as one, take out the starter and replace it with this tool. Turn the engine with a rachet.

No NO NO! That's way too easy! DD

[Ronnie]

Ding Ding Ding!!! "winner" "winner" chicken dinner

R.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

I take no credit. Tom Wesenberg is da Man !

[Mike in AZ]

if the flywheel is exposed, a tool like this makes it easy to turn the flywheel...if the flywheel turns, that is...look on epay for different variations...this is the one i'm familiar with.....good luck....Mike

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-23800-...wAAOSw5cNYfJzE

[Paul Bennett]

All super information, guys, greatly appreciate it.

Noting HF has a $20 18" long ratchet I will use 51-M's idea for a long handle 7/8" damper rotation tool with the shortened socket pinned in place. This can be used later when setting points.
_______________________
Now for that Tom Wesenberg starter flywheel rotation tool which takes the cake, - Somewhere there is a pile of Ford starters waiting for the price of scrap to rise -

Where should I look to best find an otherwise useless starter to cannibalize for a 'WESENBERG' rotator?

By the by I already made a "STARTER INSTALLATION" tool which I will describe in a later thread when I get photos. Can't have enough special tools as having them wards away the evil breakdown spirits.

[flatford8]

I made this one..... crude but effective..... Mark

[flatford8]

Can you try a plastic zip-tie in a sparkplug hole?.... I know people use this for finding TDC..... Mark

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I made this one..... crude but effective..... Mark

I like that one because you could drill additional holes so it could also be used on other engines.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

I like that one because you could drill additional holes so it could also be used on other engines.

IF the gears matched!

[A bones]

All good stuff.

If you don't need to watch the motor turn... and don't mind yanking plugs...

Years ago this old hand, I had the pleasure to work with, told me how his pop would get the off brand jalopy running for a Sunday jaunt. With a half dead battery and no means for a jump, pops would jack one rear tire off the ground. Then setting the trans in high gear, and a little choke, he used the free tire to crank, build compression, sputter-sputter cheers all round,

Anyhow, good in a pinch for leverage without proper or special tool.

I apologize for the crudeness of this. Its been so many and years no one to tell.

[rotorwrench]

Starting one that way reminds me of starting the old horizontal engines in the early John Deere tractors. I pulled on that wheel a lot sometimes when they were cranky. It was safer than a hand crank though.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Starting one that way reminds me of starting the old horizontal engines in the early John Deere tractors. I pulled on that wheel a lot sometimes when they were cranky. It was safer than a hand crank though.

Horizontal engines and hand cranking reminds me of the way I used to crank the engine in my old J-3 Cub, (one handed from behind the prop)

[KGS]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Horizontal engines and hand cranking reminds me of the way I used to crank the engine in my old J-3 Cub, (one handed from behind the prop)

Yep, I hate to do that. But it does avoid off field landings


Edit: picture won't post so the idea is lost...