The Ford Barn

dirtcop · 07-13-2019, 11:35 AM

Hi - I recently purchased a 1927 Ford touring with a model A boxed frame, 8BA flathead motor, 1953 mercury 3 speed, and 1932 (?) rear end. The rear end has been converted to open drive. I have no drive shaft at this time. I'm about to take off the body and redo / improve some aspects of the suspension and drive train. What I am trying to find out is what angle is correct for a Ford flathead. I realize on a closed drive setup it is all fixed between the different engine components, but with the open drive should I set the engine so it is going down 2 or 3 degrees towards the rear end and then rotate rear end up towards engine / trans. Right now the engine is sitting flat. Thanks, Brian

cas3 · 07-13-2019, 12:08 PM

cant give you anything scientific, but as a general rule for motor swaps i like to try and put the crankshaft back where it was originally. the hand crank hole on the front spring pad would be in line with the bolt on the front of the crank for a model A, and the trans shift housing usually is about an inch to an inch ana half above the floor of a v8 car, thus requiring the hump in the tin cover for the floor. your model T had a flat floor, so you will be making that part

supereal · 07-13-2019, 12:54 PM

Most engine swaps are concerned with clearance between the frame and cross members, as well as the hood. Unless the engine is placed at an odd angle, the oil pan will compensate. If you have to modify the oil pan fo clearance, be sure that the capacity is at least equal to the stock part. Last year we built an engine for a four wheel drive pickup the owner intended to use pull heavy grain wagons out of the field. It worked fine, except when on a steep grade when the oil shifted away from the pump pickup. We ordered a large capacity oil pan from Jeg's that holds seven quarts, and all is well now.

4t8v8 · 07-13-2019, 04:21 PM

When I installed a T5 trans in my F1 I had to build a new rear cross member. I set my engine at 3 degrees which let the carb sit level. The rear end was factory 3 degrees up. The drive shaft is 7 degrees. Been working great for years.

51 MERC-CT · 07-13-2019, 06:12 PM

If your intake manifold has the built in angle to keep the carb. level, then use that angle to set the engine angle when the carb is level.

dirtcop · 07-13-2019, 06:54 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like a flathead is installed just like all the other engines I have done. Just making sure I do it right. I'm 71 years old and just figured out I'm still ignorant of a lot of things.

V8 Bob · 07-14-2019, 04:18 PM

You want the carb(s) close to level, and this depends on what flathead intake you use, early or late. But the most important items are 1, engine/trans and pinion centerlines being parallel, and 2, keeping the U-joint working angles the same and between 1 and 3 degrees. This really requires establishing chassis ride heights early in the build.

07-13-2019, 11:35 AM	#1
dirtcop Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 23	Ford 8BA engine placement Hi - I recently purchased a 1927 Ford touring with a model A boxed frame, 8BA flathead motor, 1953 mercury 3 speed, and 1932 (?) rear end. The rear end has been converted to open drive. I have no drive shaft at this time. I'm about to take off the body and redo / improve some aspects of the suspension and drive train. What I am trying to find out is what angle is correct for a Ford flathead. I realize on a closed drive setup it is all fixed between the different engine components, but with the open drive should I set the engine so it is going down 2 or 3 degrees towards the rear end and then rotate rear end up towards engine / trans. Right now the engine is sitting flat. Thanks, Brian

07-13-2019, 12:08 PM	#2
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,571	Re: Ford 8BA engine placement cant give you anything scientific, but as a general rule for motor swaps i like to try and put the crankshaft back where it was originally. the hand crank hole on the front spring pad would be in line with the bolt on the front of the crank for a model A, and the trans shift housing usually is about an inch to an inch ana half above the floor of a v8 car, thus requiring the hump in the tin cover for the floor. your model T had a flat floor, so you will be making that part

07-13-2019, 12:54 PM	#3
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: Ford 8BA engine placement Most engine swaps are concerned with clearance between the frame and cross members, as well as the hood. Unless the engine is placed at an odd angle, the oil pan will compensate. If you have to modify the oil pan fo clearance, be sure that the capacity is at least equal to the stock part. Last year we built an engine for a four wheel drive pickup the owner intended to use pull heavy grain wagons out of the field. It worked fine, except when on a steep grade when the oil shifted away from the pump pickup. We ordered a large capacity oil pan from Jeg's that holds seven quarts, and all is well now.

07-13-2019, 04:21 PM	#4
4t8v8 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NW Arkansas Posts: 524	Re: Ford 8BA engine placement When I installed a T5 trans in my F1 I had to build a new rear cross member. I set my engine at 3 degrees which let the carb sit level. The rear end was factory 3 degrees up. The drive shaft is 7 degrees. Been working great for years.

07-13-2019, 06:54 PM	#6
dirtcop Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 23	Re: Ford 8BA engine placement Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks for the responses. Sounds like a flathead is installed just like all the other engines I have done. Just making sure I do it right. I'm 71 years old and just figured out I'm still ignorant of a lot of things.

07-14-2019, 04:18 PM	#7
V8 Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granger (Northern) Indiana Posts: 1,520	Re: Ford 8BA engine placement You want the carb(s) close to level, and this depends on what flathead intake you use, early or late. But the most important items are 1, engine/trans and pinion centerlines being parallel, and 2, keeping the U-joint working angles the same and between 1 and 3 degrees. This really requires establishing chassis ride heights early in the build.