How to change Drag link ball studs

[Nico73]

Hello Gentlemans,
you would not belive, but after 82 years my drag link ball studs on my pit-Arm are a little bit worn out...
At Mac's they have studs for welding, has anybody experience in changing to give me some advices?

Thanks a lot, Nico

[TomT/Williamsburg]

I actually changed the ball stud to a tie rod end. Easier to adjust and less messy grease wise. But, my avatar is not stock and your intent may be to stay stock. Using the original pitman arm, a competent welder can weld on a new ball no problem. I would not try it with any aftermarket arms as the steel is nothing like the original factory stuff ....

[cas3]

some folks just weld up the ball thats there, and grind it round again with flap disk. use the hole in a washer to check for roundness.

[woodiewagon46]

A company named Brattons, 800-255-1929 does them for Model A's so they might be able to do yours. There are two ways new balls are done. Some companies mill off the entire ball and weld in a new ball and stud. The best way in my opinion is how some companies do it, is to mill around the ball and leave a stud. They then press on a hollow ball and TIG weld the very end.

[Bubsyouruncle]

I got tapered ones from Mac's some time ago. Would be a better way to do it IF you have a tapered hole. IMHO.

[fordscript]

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There is a company here in Christchurch New Zealand who does this job. I have recently had a 1934 ford V8 one done. I was very wary of this, and told the engineer of my concerns. He led me to a 50 gallon drum full of cut-off worn balls. He said they do them all the time, for cars, suvs and trucks. He also said that they are Government dept approved to do this work. If you are interested I will pass on further details.

[4port]

Originally Posted by woodiewagon46

A company named Brattons, 800-255-1929 does them for Model A's so they might be able to do yours. There are two ways new balls are done. Some companies mill off the entire ball and weld in a new ball and stud. The best way in my opinion is how some companies do it, is to mill around the ball and leave a stud. They then press on a hollow ball and TIG weld the very end.

A & L Parts Specialties restores the balls by milling the ball leaving the stud. Brattons is a vendor that sends them out to A & L.

A & L Parts Specialties. Canton, CT. 860-693-0112
No Website

[Nico73]

Thanks a lot Guy´s, i really appreciate your help.
The german road authority is very strict, and there is no chance for me to weld on steering parts. So i have to drill a tapered hole, and use the studs form Mac´s i think.

[cmbrucew]

The process is simple, and the ball studs are available, but be aware some are heat treated hard and brittle. Your weld could be perfect and the stud just pop off at the weld. Test for temper.

Bruce

[steve hackel]

You can always be different and eliminate the 34 style pitman arm all together! I have done this several times now for myself and friends.... Follow me; find a 35/36? (I was told that is what I had on hand) with a casting number of 48-3590 and this will be 5.25 +/- center to center on the steering shaft and tapered ball holes. You will need to ream out the opposite side of the tapered hole, as the original 35/6 is on the wrong side for the 34. Next issue is that the 35/6 pitman arms had 4 - 90degree apart standoffs used to register the arm in the correct position for the 35/6 steering shafts (bummer) so you can either remove the standoffs completely from the inside of the pitman arm where the splines are - OR - buy a good grade of a triangle file and file the splines into the center of each of the locating standoffs. The first one I converted took me about 1.5 hours, the second was slightly over an hour, and now each time i do them it's just about an hours time. Don't be cheap and buy some off shore file because the small files do tend to become dull after you have cut into the Ford pitman arms. I also had a "JUNK" steering shaft that I used as my guide, but I am sure you can figure this all out after looking at it for a while. You'll have a new pitman arm with a new ball stud that can be replaced at any time. Just for a reference, there is not nearly enough material in the end of the 34 pitman arm to drill & ream it for a replacement ball stud sold by the dealers. I also contacted A&L regarding my 34 pitmen arm and was turned down by them, as they did not want to do that style arm.
So, for about 35$ invested in a used pitman arm, about 12$ for a new ball stud and about slightly more than an hour of your time, you can have a brand new pitman arm ready to install onto your steering shaft and then drive your car with confidence knowing that your balls were not welded on ....................

[woodiewagon46]

You mention that the authorities are very strict in Germany, but when I received my repaired pitman arm from Bratton's, (A&L), there was no way to tell that they had been repaired. Unless you say something who is going to know? They were perfect in every way. If you do the "taper way", rather than the "stud way" won't they see the weld or the seam has been ground off? By doing the "stud" repair the seam remains at the rear of the forging and you can not tell that it has been repaired.