EAB Carburetor Issues

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I have an off idle stumble on my 52 F3 239. Starts right up cold or hot and idles fine. Almost seems like the accelerator pump squirt is delayed. It works, just seems late.

I put a kit in it when I first got the truck just to get it going. Today I pulled the carb off and took a closer look. Got a lot of white crud in the bottom of the fuel bowl for only about a year of running. Ethanol fuel? Entire fuel system was cleaned when I did the carb.

There is a lot of play on the linkage side of the throttle shaft. For some reason the throttle plates were riveted on with tubular brass rivets. The shaft needs to be replaced. Where can I find one like this? Not the extra long type for multi carb setups. I have the hand throttle to hook back up.

I'm going to have to chuck the base in the lathe or drill press and make a bushing for this wore out hole. The boss sticking out in the pic will chuck up pretty tight.

The second last pic shows a worn out bushing for the accelerator pump rod. I'm wondering if this is the cause of my pump delay? Thinking it may move laterally before pushing up and stroking the pump. Any thoughts on this?

The last pic showing model number? EAB. Any kit recommendations for this carb would be appreciated.

I sent a PM to Charlie NY but he is booked for a while and I'd like to try to fix it. I think I can bush the base, just need a source for a new shaft and a good kit.

Scott

[ford38v8]

Sloppy bushings shouldn't cause a stumble, unless the shaft hangs up. More likely, the accelerator pump piston is of a poor quality, or even the shaft is wrong, as kits do come with multiple parts for different carbs. You'll be much better off with a soft leather piston soaked in oil. The kits these days usually come with a funky blue material that doesn't hold up to Ethanol.

Another likely cause of the stumble would be the size of the main jets. You need .051 jets for a single carburetor. Smaller jets are used with multi carb setups.

Other than those two causes, there can be obstructed passages, missing or stuck accelerator valve ball, ineffective power valve (AKA Economizer valve), vacuum leaks, or any number of combined ailments.

You can get a good kit and any parts you need from Daytona in Florida. Not cheap, but you get quality parts.

Daytona Parts Co. daytonaparts.com/index.html
World Class Carburetor Restorations and Carburetor Kits

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Thanks for the reply Allan. The power valve is not blown but, I'll check to make sure it is the correct one. The ball is there, the body was soaked in Berryman's Chem Dip. The accelerator squirts very well, just seems late.

I'll check the main jet size. The kit did come with the blue pump and a black one. The leather one will hold up to Ethanol?

You gave me some good info. Thanks!

Scott

[ford38v8]

Absolutely! If you still have the leather, by all means, use it. It'll be stiff, so loosen it up with motor oil. And the power valve.... make sure that the gasket surface is flat to match the mating surface. Machine it flat or use multi gaskets to make the seal. Probably not your issue, but it needs checking anyway.

EDIT: It occurs to me, you have a vacuum port on the EAB that is used for the distributor on the later flatheads. I know nothing about that system, but if not operative, it might be your problem.

[flatheadmurre]

Just to ad to the advices above.
Have you tried moving the accelerator pump lever out to outer hole to check for a difference ?
Check if the little valve under the accelerator squirt nozzels are clean moving free and sealing up.
There is no bushing just a felt sealing around the accelerator pumprod.

[1952henry]

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Charlie NY may have a shaft. It not the catalog people will. You can cut your own end on a replacement shaft for hand throttle if you have to. Not hard to do.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I think my problem was the accelerator pump. The blue one was dragging really bad. The black one is snug yet moves more freely.

The worn shaft is just something I noticed after tearing into it more.

The accelerator pump rod does have a bushing on my carb. See pic with arrow. Not sure if original or not. I tried all the adjustment holes and the center was best but, I still had a stumble. Just off idle.

The vacuum port for the original distributor is plugged.

Charlie NY doesn't recommend bushing the base based on his experience. I don't have another base so I may have to try. I posted up I am looking for another carb or base on the FTE forum. I'll ask here too.

I appreciate all the tips and advice. I think it was the accelerator pump and the shaft is an incidental finding.

If I can't get it going I guess I'll wait in line for Charlie. It would be nice to get something on it to get me going for now though.

Scott