Columbia controls

[Tom Walker]

I have picked up my Columbia axle, which came off an Allard, and it is a complete axle, with brake drums, radius arms and torque tube. But it has no controls. I dare nt tell you how much I paid for it....

I was wondering, instead of faffing around with vacuum lines, switches, control boxes etc, it would be very easy to simply rig up a cable with a lever on the floor by the drivers seat.....or am I missing something?!

Tom.

[ford38v8]

Ask Big John:

Columbia Two Speed Parts www.columbiatwospeedparts.com
Reproduction Repair Axle Parts and Controls for the Columbia Overdrive Two Speed Axle 1935 - 1948

[Tom Walker]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Ask Big John:

Columbia Two Speed Parts www.columbiatwospeedparts.com
Reproduction Repair Axle Parts and Controls for the Columbia Overdrive Two Speed Axle 1935 - 1948

Thats fine, but as he sells all the bits, he may not give me the answer to my question !?

[uncle buck]

Originally Posted by Tom Walker

Thats fine, but as he sells all the bits, he may not give me the answer to my question !?

Just a thought... but maybe he will?

[4dFord/SC]

The vacuum canister that was on my Columbia when I bought it had been converted for manual operation. A hole had been drilled in the end so that the plunger could be connected to some sort of linkage that was no longer there. So, it is apparently quite feasible.

That being said, you will still need to find a speedometer adapter, unless you are not concerned with speedometer accuracy. Unlike most of the other controls, they are not being reproduced, and originals are difficult to find. Fortunately, the same S-W unit was used on truck underdrives and can be converted by reversing the internal gears. These units are a bit easier to find and occasionally appear on eBay. John Connelly may have some, too.

[jimTN]

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Another alternative is the vac valve from a 55-8 Chev trk with two speed. It has a cable and button. I have installed the valve below the floor in 34s and run the cable up the gear shift lever so you can lay your hand on the gearshift knob and pull or push the button. Do not know if Holdens had that system or not but might be worth looking for.

[Don]

I used a 4 way butterfly valve and some 3/8 air hose .modified a blow valve,the kind that goes on the end of a air hose,,to activate the vacuum when clutch was on floor,works great.

[G.M.]

I have a number of Columbia's installed in my cars and have installed some for a few friends. I use a Pollock 6 port fuel valve for dual gas tanks, long stroke switch on the clutch arm, double pole spring loaded switch, on/on wired to reverse polarity to the valve. The valve also has a set of contacts to operate an electric speedo changer. To engauge, push double pole switch and hold or if a toggle hold against the spring, push the clutch and hold the switch while the clutch is released then release the switch it it shifts gentliy into Columbia. To drop out of Columbia just push and release the clutch. As you stop when the clutch is pushed it drops out. The Pollock valve is motor operated and works on 6 or 12 volts. I use an electric speedometer changer used in 60's Ford and Chevy 2 speed rear axle trucks. Most of these are 12 volt and won't pull in with 6 volts. Stewart Warner sold the speedo changer business 10 or so years ago and I had the new owners wind me some 6 volt units but they went out of business, I should have purchased 500 as they cost about $11.00 each. I set up a little winding machine, removed the old windings and rewound the spool with 650 turns of # 34 magnet or transformer wire. Originaly I mounted the speedo unit on the top of left frame where the cowl mounts with two speedo cables. Later I made an adaptor to screw the speedo adaptor into the speedometer and used the original cable. The pollack valve can be mounted on the frame on the same bracket as the changer or in the rear of the car. I mounted some in the car and some under the car, the Pollock valve is water proof. I found a few pictures. The last picture is the bracket for the changer and valve that mounted on the top of the frame. The other one is mounted behind the seat of my 33 phaeton. G.M.

[richard crow]

call big john in ca he makes a elect. shifting unit but you still need a vacuum sorce. he we tell you every thing you will need to know a real gentleman

[FL&WVMIKE]

Tom Walker .....................
I have seen one, out of the car, which was rigged up with manual controls. It was said to have worked fine, but I can not vouch for it.
MIKE

[motordr]

Originally Posted by G.M.

I have a number of Columbia's installed in my cars and have installed some for a few friends. I use a Pollock 6 port fuel valve for dual gas tanks, long stroke switch on the clutch arm, double pole spring loaded switch, on/on wired to reverse polarity to the valve. The valve also has a set of contacts to operate an electric speedo changer. To engauge, push double pole switch and hold or if a toggle hold against the spring, push the clutch and hold the switch while the clutch is released then release the switch it it shifts gentliy into Columbia. To drop out of Columbia just push and release the clutch. As you stop when the clutch is pushed it drops out. The Pollock valve is motor operated and works on 6 or 12 volts. I use an electric speedometer changer used in 60's Ford and Chevy 2 speed rear axle trucks. Most of these are 12 volt and won't pull in with 6 volts. Stewart Warner sold the speedo changer business 10 or so years ago and I had the new owners wind me some 6 volt units but they went out of business, I should have purchased 500 as they cost about $11.00 each. I set up a little winding machine, removed the old windings and rewound the spool with 650 turns of # 34 magnet or transformer wire. Originaly I mounted the speedo unit on the top of left frame where the cowl mounts with two speedo cables. Later I made an adaptor to screw the speedo adaptor into the speedometer and used the original cable. The pollack valve can be mounted on the frame on the same bracket as the changer or in the rear of the car. I mounted some in the car and some under the car, the Pollock valve is water proof. I found a few pictures. The last picture is the bracket for the changer and valve that mounted on the top of the frame. The other one is mounted behind the seat of my 33 phaeton. G.M.

Bringing up an old thread here. I have a question related to the electric speedo changer for G.M.
Where can I get the adapter to thread the changer to the speedometer head? Also did you machine the output end of the adapter to fit the cable?
Thanks, Ted

[flatheadmurre]

Look for a truckshop that makes cables...they can usually make you a cable with whatever thread you need in each end...if it´s not to exotic...
Since the speedo changer is a more modern thread going for a later unit they can cut your orginal cable in 2 pieces crimping on new connectors to fit the changer.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by motordr

Bringing up an old thread here. I have a question related to the electric speedo changer for G.M.
Where can I get the adapter to thread the changer to the speedometer head? Also did you machine the output end of the adapter to fit the cable?
Thanks, Ted

There are standard adaptors made with a male and female thread to
fit the speedometer end of the changer. If I remember I threaded the
OD of the input end of the electric changer and cut it to length for the
speedometer cable to fit. First picture was a temporary set up to see
if the shift gear ratio was right. Better installation followed. Second
picture is the Pollock fuel valve install behind the rear seat in my 33
phaeton. The rubber hoses and the fuel filter used to change direction
of the valve and keep dirt from being pulled in. The closer to the rear
the crisper it shifts. On most cars I mount the water proof valve under
the rear floor boards near the rear with short hoses to the vacuum cyl.
Even the plug on the valve is water proof. The valve is a DC motor and
will run on 6 or 12 volts. There is also a switch in the valve to switch
gas gauges when changing fuel tanks with the valve. These contacts
are wired to the plug so I use the contacts to energize the old Ford
truck electric gear changer. Most changers are 12 volts and won't
pull in with 6 volts so I rewound the coils in the changer for 6 volts
using twice the wire size and 650 turns rings a bell as this was a few
years ago. They made 6 volt changers also but are hard to find. I
just happened to look on eBay last week and found a 6 volt Ford
truck changer and bought it for $38.00 including shipping, a little
high priced but rare. The third picture shows the Pollock valve and
changer mounted to a bracket that bolts to an existing hole in the
frame on the drivers side where the firewall bolts to the frame.
Speedo cable from drive shaft to changer and another from changer
to speedo. Original cable used when gear changer is adapted to speedometer. This won't work on some cars with radio's then you
need a 90 degree 1 to 1 speedometer adaptor also. G.M.
Sorry for the repeated info I thought I lost it before it got posted??

[motordr]

Thanks flathead murre and G.M. So I take it that the speedo changer needs to be continuously energized while in Overdrive, but the Pollock fuel valve does not require constant power, once it's in it stays in. So does the fuel tank sender signal also shut off when the fuel valve power source is cut off?
I'm thinking to use a toggle to direct power and a momentary push button to energize so I don't have constant power to the valve.
This is for my 32 coupe with 12 volts. Ted

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by motordr

Thanks flathead murre and G.M. So I take it that the speedo changer needs to be continuously energized while in Overdrive, but the Pollock fuel valve does not require constant power, once it's in it stays in. So does the fuel tank sender signal also shut off when the fuel valve power source is cut off?
I'm thinking to use a toggle to direct power and a momentary push button to energize so I don't have constant power to the valve.
This is for my 32 coupe with 12 volts. Ted

If you apply 12 volts through the Pollock valves wires to the contacts for
the gas gauge it will send 12 volts to the 12 volt gear changer. The valve
DC motor only rotates 1/2 a revolution forward then backward. This motion
also makes and breaks the gauge switch in the valve. Get a Pollock valve
and using 12 volts with jumper wires and a volt/ohm meter you can see
how it works. G.M.

[cas3]

i play with model T's too, and the ruckstell two speed axle for T's has the same style shift mechanism on the axle housing, with a steel rod guided on the torque tube to another shift lever on the floor. not done yet, but my plan for my 34 with a columbia is to copy the ruckstell and make a shifter that is right along side the parking brake lever so as not to destroy the floor space or the looks of it all. i also believe, not proven yet, is that if you are experienced at driving big trucks like i am, a manually controlled shift would be easier on the unit than letting vacuum just mash the gears together. in big trucks we only use the clutch to start out, and after that you match rpm to road speed and let your left foot relax. again, my thoughts, not done yet

[Brian]

I just used a pnuematic 5 port valve operated via flick lever to operate the vacuum controls on my Auburn two speed diff. Mounted under dash; to operate, depress clutch, flick switch, listen for the slight 'clunk' release clutch pedal, continue driving. Too easy.

[motordr]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Look for a truckshop that makes cables...they can usually make you a cable with whatever thread you need in each end...if it´s not to exotic...
Since the speedo changer is a more modern thread going for a later unit they can cut your orginal cable in 2 pieces crimping on new connectors to fit the changer.

I'm thinking to go this route but don't know of any local shop to make the speedo cables. Looking for recommendation of a shop I can call to have them make up what I need. Ted

[supereal]

It is unusual to find a Columbia axle with all the controls, as when the cars were salvaged, it was too much trouble to also remove the controls. If you are contemplating buying a Columbia, bear in mind that if it doesn't include all the controls, the cost of repros isn't cheap, and finding used sets is almost impossible. We have see them offered for a thousand dollars and more. It is necessary to determine if it is useable, and bronze parts replaced.

[stangblue]

I am really impressed on how many technicians on this forum tackle problems with speedometer ratios changing with 2 speed rears and equipment that can satisfy that change. Not to digress but I have problems sometimes trying to get my speedometer with a single rear axle ratio to be accurate! Recently while driving a non Ford make 4 speed car with stock sized tires and standard rear end ratio and with correct speedometer gear. It is accurate till 40 mph and the loses it's accuracy. I have given up changing speedo gears in the transmission ( I don't want ripp the dash head out ) and now have an app on my smart phone (waze) that give me the correct mph by GPS. I guess I have succumbed to technology.