The Ford Barn

cdnwillyg · 04-18-2024, 04:47 PM

Hey forum new here and the new owner of a '29 RPU in need of some love.
IMG_1521 (1).jpg
I have this issue on the rear quarters where it meets the cab floor and don't know what I need to do? Its the same on both sides. It looks original but after 95 years thats only a guess.
IMG_1525.jpg
IMG_1526.jpg
I should mention there are no body wood blocks in yet so body is sitting directly on the frame.

Chuck Dempsey · 04-18-2024, 05:30 PM

Can't help with your issue, but welcome to the 'Barn! Looks really nice.

Gary WA · 04-18-2024, 06:05 PM

Great project!!! Welcome to Site! Get R Done!!

Marshall V. Daut · 04-18-2024, 06:54 PM

Not to nitpick your nice truck, but you'll need the correct hood. The one that is presently on your Model A is from a '28-29 Fordor Sedan or a 1929 Town Sedan/Town Car/Cabriolet. Fortunately, the hood you need is much more commonly found than the hood for those cars. You should be able to trade or sell yours at an advantage. It looks pretty straight across the top, a rarity among hoods that are usually dented.
Marshall

jg61hawk · 04-18-2024, 06:56 PM

First off...welcome to the forum and the Model A world. I'll be in trouble for this with some...but not with all. ...it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish as an end game. I can't see clearly your entire situation, but if everything is solid in terms of safety...floors etc...then some good old modern construction cement, such as Hard as Nails, or some equivalent should solve your problems...it solved mine. I had some rot in a car I did not want to restore to factory....squirted that stuff, braced it tight for 48 hours and painted in black...looks like welding. You do what you want...welcome aboard.

cdnwillyg · 04-18-2024, 10:05 PM

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I have the original hood too, I was told that the hood with the bead roll is from a closed cab pickup??

cdnwillyg · 04-18-2024, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jg61hawk

First off...welcome to the forum and the Model A world. I'll be in trouble for this with some...but not with all. ...it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish as an end game. I can't see clearly your entire situation, but if everything is solid in terms of safety...floors etc...then some good old modern construction cement, such as Hard as Nails, or some equivalent should solve your problems...it solved mine. I had some rot in a car I did not want to restore to factory....squirted that stuff, braced it tight for 48 hours and painted in black...looks like welding. You do what you want...welcome aboard.

I will be replacing the little rot in the cowl with new steel and the truck has been sandblasted so there's no need to try and save any of the paint....it will be shiny.

cdnwillyg · 04-18-2024, 10:21 PM

Thanks for the Welcome!!!
So another question about the two sets of 3 holes behind the seat, 1 set passenger,1 set drivers???
IMG_1527.jpg

Marshall V. Daut · 04-18-2024, 11:44 PM

"I was told that the hood with the bead roll is from a closed cab pickup??"

You were misinformed. The pictured hood on the truck belongs only to the body styles I listed in Post #4. A '28-29 Closed Cab Pickup would use the same hood as one of the Coupe varieties (Standard, Special, Sport, Business), Roadster, Phaeton and Tudor Sedan. All these had exposed gas tanks, whereas the ones on my list had concealed gas tanks and were built around a wood structure. The concealed gas tank bodies used the hood with a rolled bead shown on your Model A.
Marshall

rotorwrench · 04-19-2024, 12:41 PM

I believe that the back of the cab wall had either had vertical wood supports or horizontal. I think the seat back cushion attached to them. See Link.

The cab corners look almost complete as far as metal loss due to corrosion. Most are rotted completely out. I would remove any corrosion rot there and fabricate butt weld patches. Only remove what is not solid and replace with same gauge of metal. Cab corners are available but yours are definitely salvageable and they already fit.

https://fordwood.com/images/rpu28new.jpg

cdnwillyg · 04-19-2024, 06:54 PM

There is no rot down on the floor, its just not pot riveted or welded there, almost like its there for drain age??Both sides are the same. I'm thinking this cab had the top and side wide shades at one time and that's what the holes around the top where for the snaps....but just my guess by the drivers one snap left.
IMG_1532.jpg
Got a little stripping done today.
IMG_1533.jpg
IMG_1531.jpg

Keith True · 04-19-2024, 07:06 PM

The tops were not held on with snaps on those trucks,they were nailed on.They were not removable or foldable.There is supposed to be a piece of wood on top of the back panel,the roof nails onto that.Look at some of the pictures online from the suppliers,you will be able to see what it looks like.On both my 28 and 30 open cabs I used fasteners,I wanted to be able to take the roof off if I needed to.I still have the 30,and in 20 years I've never had reason to remove it yet.

rotorwrench · 04-21-2024, 10:37 AM

Folks call them roadster pickups but the were really just an open cab pickup. Some folks modify the bottom rear of the top with snap fasteners so that is can be removed. Others make custom folding set ups but there isn't much behind to support a folding top.

Marshall V. Daut · 04-21-2024, 11:10 AM

For a couple years, Lebaron Bonney made complete folding top irons for the '28-29 Open Cab Pickup Truck. They seemed relatively expensive at the time, but look darned cheap now! You might try advertising for a set of these irons. Someone may have a set not needed and will be willing to part with them.
Marshall

cdnwillyg · 04-22-2024, 08:53 AM

Thanks for the info, the top if it gets one will be down the road after everything else is done. But I will source to see what I can find now.
If the power train and running gear are good then keeping it original maybe the way I'll go as it will be the cheapest route. If it is in need of lots of repair then
I'm looking at changing the wheels to the 16" ones of the 30's for two reasons, I need new rubber for the 21" rims and if I go to a Flathead V8 and lower the suspension then I would be able to keep the new 16" rims and tires on it.
Any thoughts to my thinking??? Like I said this is all new to me and would like input,

rotorwrench · 04-24-2024, 11:34 AM

Many AV8s have been put together but it is a lot of work. The Bishop/Tardel book describes the way a lot of folks did it back in the day. The HAMB has a lot more information about such mods. It's a challenge to fit a V8 in the confines of a 1928/29 engine compartment. The frame has to have at least some reinforcement for the extra weight and torque.

04-18-2024, 04:47 PM	#1
cdnwillyg Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2024 Posts: 6	Newbie with '29 RPU Hey forum new here and the new owner of a '29 RPU in need of some love. IMG_1521 (1).jpg I have this issue on the rear quarters where it meets the cab floor and don't know what I need to do? Its the same on both sides. It looks original but after 95 years thats only a guess. IMG_1525.jpg IMG_1526.jpg I should mention there are no body wood blocks in yet so body is sitting directly on the frame.

04-18-2024, 05:30 PM	#2
Chuck Dempsey Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Waynesville, NC Posts: 796	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU Can't help with your issue, but welcome to the 'Barn! Looks really nice.

04-18-2024, 06:56 PM	#5
jg61hawk Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Central New Jersey Posts: 409	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU First off...welcome to the forum and the Model A world. I'll be in trouble for this with some...but not with all. ...it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish as an end game. I can't see clearly your entire situation, but if everything is solid in terms of safety...floors etc...then some good old modern construction cement, such as Hard as Nails, or some equivalent should solve your problems...it solved mine. I had some rot in a car I did not want to restore to factory....squirted that stuff, braced it tight for 48 hours and painted in black...looks like welding. You do what you want...welcome aboard.

04-18-2024, 10:05 PM	#6
cdnwillyg Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2024 Posts: 6	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have the original hood too, I was told that the hood with the bead roll is from a closed cab pickup??

04-18-2024, 11:44 PM	#9
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,123	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU "I was told that the hood with the bead roll is from a closed cab pickup??" You were misinformed. The pictured hood on the truck belongs only to the body styles I listed in Post #4. A '28-29 Closed Cab Pickup would use the same hood as one of the Coupe varieties (Standard, Special, Sport, Business), Roadster, Phaeton and Tudor Sedan. All these had exposed gas tanks, whereas the ones on my list had concealed gas tanks and were built around a wood structure. The concealed gas tank bodies used the hood with a rolled bead shown on your Model A. Marshall

04-18-2024, 06:54 PM	#4
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,123	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU Not to nitpick your nice truck, but you'll need the correct hood. The one that is presently on your Model A is from a '28-29 Fordor Sedan or a 1929 Town Sedan/Town Car/Cabriolet. Fortunately, the hood you need is much more commonly found than the hood for those cars. You should be able to trade or sell yours at an advantage. It looks pretty straight across the top, a rarity among hoods that are usually dented. Marshall

04-19-2024, 12:41 PM	#10
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,447	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU I believe that the back of the cab wall had either had vertical wood supports or horizontal. I think the seat back cushion attached to them. See Link. The cab corners look almost complete as far as metal loss due to corrosion. Most are rotted completely out. I would remove any corrosion rot there and fabricate butt weld patches. Only remove what is not solid and replace with same gauge of metal. Cab corners are available but yours are definitely salvageable and they already fit. https://fordwood.com/images/rpu28new.jpg Last edited by rotorwrench; 04-19-2024 at 12:51 PM.

04-19-2024, 06:54 PM	#11
cdnwillyg Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2024 Posts: 6	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU There is no rot down on the floor, its just not pot riveted or welded there, almost like its there for drain age??Both sides are the same. I'm thinking this cab had the top and side wide shades at one time and that's what the holes around the top where for the snaps....but just my guess by the drivers one snap left. IMG_1532.jpg Got a little stripping done today. IMG_1533.jpg IMG_1531.jpg

04-19-2024, 07:06 PM	#12
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,992	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU The tops were not held on with snaps on those trucks,they were nailed on.They were not removable or foldable.There is supposed to be a piece of wood on top of the back panel,the roof nails onto that.Look at some of the pictures online from the suppliers,you will be able to see what it looks like.On both my 28 and 30 open cabs I used fasteners,I wanted to be able to take the roof off if I needed to.I still have the 30,and in 20 years I've never had reason to remove it yet.

04-21-2024, 10:37 AM	#13
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,447	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU Folks call them roadster pickups but the were really just an open cab pickup. Some folks modify the bottom rear of the top with snap fasteners so that is can be removed. Others make custom folding set ups but there isn't much behind to support a folding top.

04-21-2024, 11:10 AM	#14
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,123	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU For a couple years, Lebaron Bonney made complete folding top irons for the '28-29 Open Cab Pickup Truck. They seemed relatively expensive at the time, but look darned cheap now! You might try advertising for a set of these irons. Someone may have a set not needed and will be willing to part with them. Marshall

04-22-2024, 08:53 AM	#15
cdnwillyg Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2024 Posts: 6	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU Thanks for the info, the top if it gets one will be down the road after everything else is done. But I will source to see what I can find now. If the power train and running gear are good then keeping it original maybe the way I'll go as it will be the cheapest route. If it is in need of lots of repair then I'm looking at changing the wheels to the 16" ones of the 30's for two reasons, I need new rubber for the 21" rims and if I go to a Flathead V8 and lower the suspension then I would be able to keep the new 16" rims and tires on it. Any thoughts to my thinking??? Like I said this is all new to me and would like input,

04-24-2024, 11:34 AM	#16
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,447	Re: Newbie with '29 RPU Many AV8s have been put together but it is a lot of work. The Bishop/Tardel book describes the way a lot of folks did it back in the day. The HAMB has a lot more information about such mods. It's a challenge to fit a V8 in the confines of a 1928/29 engine compartment. The frame has to have at least some reinforcement for the extra weight and torque.