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Old 01-09-2015, 08:03 PM   #21
scooder
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

I'm going for counter balance, and the balance weight would be a pail of non rebuildable shock cores.
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Old 01-09-2015, 10:44 PM   #22
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Mount this above on the ceiling ( with something suitable).
http://www.harborfreight.com/440-lb-...0385-9253.html
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:15 PM   #23
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

Some rope, pulleys and old sash weights or dead shocks. Your done. Just counter balance the cover so even your granddaughter could open it.
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:45 AM   #24
BILL WZOREK
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

Thanks every one for the suggestions ~~
I don't know the pressure this washer puts out.
But the cover must weigh at least 50 + #'s and is located at top of the washer.
and because of the weight of the cover I think that is what keeps it closed.
I have to get on the 2nd step of a latter to open it & besides loosing strength
I am having problems lifting over my head.
so making a lighter cover would still have me lifting over my head.
Adding counter weight would still have the same problem of lifting over my head.
As most shops space it at a premium so block & tackle won't work.
The Electric Linear Actuators would be the cats meow but $$$
I all ready have the piston and I think I'm going to go with switch over to air instead of oil.
My Question now is I want to power up & down ( the piston is power both direction)
so how many port air control valve would I need to accomplish this.

~~ THANKS AGAIN ~~
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:14 AM   #25
George/Maine
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

The way a snow plow works is power up and bled off the oil to lower.

I think a 5 port valve would work.
Middle position to hold pressure and up and down to release pressure so not to buck the other side of piston. Less then $50.

Last edited by George/Maine; 01-10-2015 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:24 PM   #26
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check out a trailer brake control from a tractor trailer , it is used to control trailer air to independently apply the trailer brakes ,it can be applied as light or as much as full reserviore pressure as desired, I have converted several for the use such as radiator
pressure testers for heavy equipment and big truck radiators, these valves clamp on the steering column ( similar to an add on turn signal set up), they are fairly light and can be mounted almost any place you want or in any position, a relay valve can be added to speed up the action if desired, and shouldn't be too expensive at a truck salvage, I don't know the size of the cylinder you have , as for myself occasionally I go to tractor supply and get a few agricultural cylinders, depending on the travel and amount of lift pressure needed, a cylinder on each side may be in order, or maybe the cylinder you already have depending on size will factor in as to the pressure and volume of air or fluid needed (to do the job at an acceptable rate) mounted in the center with pin brackets on top of the lid .
post a pic and some dimentions. I ssume the cyl. you have is a dual action, if so the
extending side has a greater pressure area than the retracting side so you may want to use the extending area to do the work .
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:47 PM   #27
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

Why not just get a boat winch from HF or some place & hook it up to a 12V battery.
You can power up & power down. Probably wouldn't nee to charge the battery but once a month. Remember KISS process.
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:20 PM   #28
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Bill,
I'll check monday and see what I can scare up as far as a good used air hand valve,
do you know the diameter of the cylinder, it would help to know as the larger the cyl ,diameter the better the lifting capability, the only down side would be the speed of operation, the hand valve ports are about 3/8" in pipe , this is where a relay valve comes into play, also usually not very expensive and simple to connect,no messy hydraulic leaks and no chance of acid leaks or danger of explosion if used in an area where a torch or open flame heater is in use, I may be surprised as to costs , because prices have skyrocketed the past several months, I have friends in the salvage business and don't mind checking it out. if you decide to go that route, I am crippled also and always looking for an easier way to get things done.
growing old isn't easy, we just have to work a little smarter, grin!!
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:42 AM   #29
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

The plow unit is made for a lot of weight and a short throw, plus that electric pump pulls as much as a starter motor--- 200 amps or more.

Lots of good suggestions here, but here's another-- get a hydraulic setup from a convertible car. There's lots of them out there--- the systems were basically the same for 50+ years of multiple manufacturers. You get a pump and two ram cylinders that will still be 12 volt but a lot less amperage than a snow plow pump. Easily lift 50#.

I also like the cable/rope and pulley method. Takes up very little space and if you do it right you won't have to reach over your head.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:57 AM   #30
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

A possible word of caution. Most wash tanks have a lead connector to allow the lid to close in case of fire. Don't jinx your insurance coverage.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:22 AM   #31
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Becareful using a hydraulic cylinder with air pressure! The pressure can build up and the cylinder goes to full extension in one very fast motion. Counter weight or lift chair seems like the safest way to do this. The advice about the top dropping in case of fire should be taken!!..... MARK
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:44 AM   #32
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

Bill
Seeing you have a 2 way piston hang one end from rafter and extend to full length hook to a chain and use a lead tire weight in case of fire.
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Old 01-11-2015, 11:39 AM   #33
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

I have an old methylene chloride tank that has a heavy steel lid. It was designed with a large stick of square steel tube welded to the back of it and it has a heavy weight that slides up and down inside the tube that is attached to a 1/4" cable that runs to the top of the tube then runs over a pulley sheave and down to the lid as a counter balance set up. Depending on the size of the weight, you can set them up to where the lid can be lifted with a single finger. Hydraulics is cool but complicated by comparison. I have a sky jack that uses a 12-volt hydraulic pump like a convertible top lift set up and it will lift my overweight self up to over 20 feet by hydraulics and cables for the multi segments it lifts. Those pumps can be overkill for a hydraulic set up but it would work for sure.

You can use a fusible link where the cable attaches to the lid in case of fire.
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Old 01-11-2015, 11:57 AM   #34
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You can build yourself a 12 volt power supply, there are instructions for it on the internet. Just a rectifier won't work, you will need to convert 120 volts AC to 12vDC, and so you need a transformer and rectifier. Also, it will need to be high amp, so it can drive the piston.
By the time you buy all you need, you could probably find a used high amp battery charger that will do the job. You will need at least 20 amps I would think, 30 would be better.
Otherwise, I'd go with the car battery and charger setup.
Bill, let me know if I can help.
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Old 01-11-2015, 12:38 PM   #35
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

Very inexpensive but easy use/make a davit from pipe or tubing & hand winch from a boat trailer. Make a flat mounting plate weld or bolt the davit to the plat & attach to your tank. A come-a-long instead of a hand winch would work also.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:06 PM   #36
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Default Re: Shop wireing Question

If you can go manual, try a used greenlee knockout tool, porta a power body tool or an old engine hoist. Just have to adjust the mounting points where you need it to open the most. You might try to get a motor and pump from a auto shop car lift.

air over hyd:



Last edited by 1oldtimer; 01-11-2015 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:23 PM   #37
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Use the counter balance lever on the lid, then install a lever on one side which is lower than top of lid, now you could lift it up but not over your head. Adjust the balance so it just a slight lift, then make up a latch if there isn't one to keep it closed. Laurie
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:30 PM   #38
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Bill,

It is probably a little late to ask but do you have any pictures?

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Old 01-11-2015, 09:36 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teich View Post
Use the counter balance lever on the lid, then install a lever on one side which is lower than top of lid, now you could lift it up but not over your head. Adjust the balance so it just a slight lift, then make up a latch if there isn't one to keep it closed. Laurie
Thats the answer. One handle parallel with the cover, one angled toward the floor. You can lift the cover to full height but not put your arms above your shoulders.....Good idea I think....MARK
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Old 01-12-2015, 12:46 AM   #40
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Bill I like your idea if you have a 12" cylinder and have a 24" cover and mounted on side of tank in middle. With air compressed there 100lbs should lift the cover. With a 12 stroke should open it 12",heighter closer to pivot point.
With a 5 port valve you would have rest, up, down, and with your finger could control it. You would need fitting push on hose and clamps. Some of those cylinder will take 200 lbs. It wouldn't,t take up any space.
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