1952 Instrument Cluster help?

[Outdoorboy26]

Hello. I am wanting to replace my instrument cluster in my 1952 Ford Courier Sedan Delivery (based on Ranch Wagon). It has been converted to 12V. I have attached photos of the cluster in the dash as you look at it, my one currently hooked up under the dash, one of the replacement cluster to go into it (only one wire on it), and a pic I took from Ebay (the one with all the wires and a cylindrical object in the lower right part of the back of the instrument cluster). My questions:

1. All of the cluster lights work (turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, cluster illumination bulbs). None of the gauges work (Oil, Fuel, Temp, Amp). Should I have a voltage regulator somewhere attached to this or near it? What does it look like? I'm thinking maybe this is why gauges don't work?

2. What is the rectangular thing hanging on the back left of the cluster to attach wires to? It has labels near the screws "A", "B", "H", and "Interior Lights." Part of the cardboard with the labels is missing on both my cluster units.

3. What is the cylindrical thing in the lower right in the Ebay picture, but not on my current cluster and my replacement?

I hope this makes sense and isn't a "cluster." (Ha!) I appreciate any help you can provide to a newbie.

[Shoebox]

I'll take a stab at your questions, you definitely should have a voltage drop device(s) for your gauges to work. Folks used a unit called Runtz to drop, one needed for each gauge. I recently redid my '51 dash (looks nothing like yours) and use a volt drop from Third Gen that did all three gauges.
The rectangular thing you mention could be the fuse/circuit breaker.
The round thing you mention looks like a turn signal flasher.

[Alaska Jim]

The round thing with the 2 spade terminals is the turn signal flasher. The other thing (kind of rectangular or square ) looks like it could be a circuit breaker, or a voltage reducer. of some sort. I have not had a '52-53 Ford since the '70's , so I am not sure about the circuit breaker/ voltage reducer thing.

[Outdoorboy26]

Originally Posted by Shoebox

I'll take a stab at your questions, you definitely should have a voltage drop device(s) for your gauges to work. Folks used a unit called Runtz to drop, one needed for each gauge. I recently redid my '51 dash (looks nothing like yours) and use a volt drop from Third Gen that did all three gauges.
The rectangular thing you mention could be the fuse/circuit breaker.
The round thing you mention looks like a turn signal flasher.

Thanks, Shoebox. Fuse/circuit breaker makes sense. There is nothing currently attached to the screws labled "Interior Lights." My Sedan Delivery has no interior lights. So that makes sense. And I found a turn signal flasher under the dash that is active, so that explains that. Awesome. Now it sounds like I need to install voltage drop devices for each gauge.

My speedometer doesn't work either, but that's another issue and one I haven't looked at yet. I may get this swapped and all working yet! Thank you so much!

[paul2748]

Get the instrument voltage drop that was used on Fords from 57 and up. Good for all the gauges. Check a parts store or any Ford old parts supplier for the voltage drop.

[Shoebox]

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"Now it sounds like I need to install voltage drop devices for each gauge."


As I mentioned, there is a voltage drop device available from several sources including Third Gen Automotive, that can accommodate all 3 gauges which really simplifies wiring. Just saying.

[TJ]

I would suggest that you get a new panel with the wires and redo all your wiring. Some of the wiring looks bad and some are wrapped with electrical tape. A new panel is not the much money and you can do it yourself. Look at EZ wire, Rebel Wire, Kwik Wire, etc. Get a 12 fuse panel and it will cover all your accessories.

[Scott52]

I rewired my 52 Crestline with a NOS harness. 1/3 the price of a new harness but Cloth covered wires fade after 70 years. Many wires were beige instead of red, green etc. I removed the gauge panel and the old harness and repaired any broken wires/lugs on the new harness and methodically labled and connected the new harness to the gauge cluster. I was also switching to 12 volts so I did install the Runtz on the gauges. I tested the gauges I could lke the gas gauge with the actual float since I had the tank boiled out. After everything worked on the bench I reinstalled it and to my surprise, All the lights, signal etc worked. Had to replace the dash and other bulbs with the 12V equivalent. For the life of me I can't find and photos and I take photos of everything. Just turned 70 and I know my memory is fading. I plan to look more intensely for the photos and diagrams. If I find what I must have I'll post it.

[Outdoorboy26]

Originally Posted by Shoebox

"Now it sounds like I need to install voltage drop devices for each gauge."


As I mentioned, there is a voltage drop device available from several sources including Third Gen Automotive, that can accommodate all 3 gauges which really simplifies wiring. Just saying.

Yes. I misread it. That sounds like the way I'll go.

[Outdoorboy26]

Originally Posted by TJ

I would suggest that you get a new panel with the wires and redo all your wiring. Some of the wiring looks bad and some are wrapped with electrical tape. A new panel is not the much money and you can do it yourself. Look at EZ wire, Rebel Wire, Kwik Wire, etc. Get a 12 fuse panel and it will cover all your accessories.

Yes TJ, that's in the plans soon.

[Outdoorboy26]

Originally Posted by Scott52

I rewired my 52 Crestline with a NOS harness. 1/3 the price of a new harness but Cloth covered wires fade after 70 years. Many wires were beige instead of red, green etc. I removed the gauge panel and the old harness and repaired any broken wires/lugs on the new harness and methodically labled and connected the new harness to the gauge cluster. I was also switching to 12 volts so I did install the Runtz on the gauges. I tested the gauges I could lke the gas gauge with the actual float since I had the tank boiled out. After everything worked on the bench I reinstalled it and to my surprise, All the lights, signal etc worked. Had to replace the dash and other bulbs with the 12V equivalent. For the life of me I can't find and photos and I take photos of everything. Just turned 70 and I know my memory is fading. I plan to look more intensely for the photos and diagrams. If I find what I must have I'll post it.

Thank you much!

[Scott52]

Can't find photos but I did find some drawings from the 1952-1953 Ford books from the early V8 Club. Bought the electrical lugs, connectors and sleeves from YnZ's Yesterdays parts. Also some small harnesses like the OverDrive, etc. For the life of me I can't find any photos of the cluster after the Runtz installed but they are pretty easy. I had a 4x8 plywood on sawhoses with a wiring diagrams, colored pencils/markers. One by one labeled the new harness as I removed the old harness. I have photos of Cardboad with my own drawing on it. The toughest thing for me was the steering column multi-connetors to the turn signals and running lights. With my dyslectic eyes, keeping the correct wires in the right place took checking and double checking. Once the new harness was reinstalled everything as far a lights were concerned worked.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Scott52

Can't find photos but I did find some drawings from the 1952-1953 Ford books from the early V8 Club. Bought the electrical lugs, connectors and sleeves from YnZ's Yesterdays parts. Also some small harnesses like the OverDrive, etc. For the life of me I can't find any photos of the cluster after the Runtz installed but they are pretty easy. I had a 4x8 plywood on sawhoses with a wiring diagrams, colored pencils/markers. One by one labeled the new harness as I removed the old harness. I have photos of Cardboad with my own drawing on it. The toughest thing for me was the steering column multi-connetors to the turn signals and running lights. With my dyslectic eyes, keeping the correct wires in the right place took checking and double checking. Once the new harness was reinstalled everything as far a lights were concerned worked.