Oil Filter

[CarlG]

Of the several types of filter "kits" available, which one seems to work the best and is user friendly when changing the filter?

[dfish2931nc]

Definatly the one from "Mikes Afforable". Advantages being it filters all the oil, and you can fill the new filter with oil when you change filters. That way the engine has oil immediately going to the main bearing when first started after the oil change. There is also no internal connections to be messed with when the valve cover is removed. The filter itself is verticle, so there is no oil mess as there is with the horizontal filter design. I don't work for any vender, but have had experience different oil filter designs.

[Dick Deegan]

CarlG;

I use the full flow filter that I purchased from Mike's several years ago. I works fine and has the advantage (I guess) of passing all of the oil through the filter before it goes into the galley.

It is a bit of a nuisance to install and also when you adjust valves. It's not a big issue, just tricky.

I don't know if it's better than the bypass filter. I do have higher than normal oil pressure (about 4 psi at 45 mph) and I wonder if the filter is restricting flow and causing the pressure to go up a bit. I don't think that any restriction in the flow is a good thing for a Model A engine. Having said that I have had no problems with my motor.

I think that either is OK.

Dick

[Dave in MN]

I agree with the posters above. Of the readily available kits, I use and install Mike's A-Ford-Able on engines I rebuild. Mike's kit, filters most of the oil the pump moves...far more than the side timing gear cover kit. The filtered oil is delivered to the same area of the valve chamber floor as a stock system.

Dick, The increase in pressure you are noting on your oil pressure gauge is from the resistance of the oil going through the routing pipe and the filter. The flow is not greatly reduced if your oil pump is in good to new condition.

I run a filter on the driver (Phaeton) shown in my avitar. I have over 50,000 miles on this engine and it still shows no sign of fatigue. I change oil every 2500 miles and do not need to add oil between changes. I have not had the pan off the engine since the rebuild...the filter has to be a contributing factor.
Good Day!
Dave in MN

[Glenn C.]

Don't forget....a lot of oil escapes out through the distributor gear/camshaft opening, unless the rotation of the gears forces back somehow.

[Mikeinnj]

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Mike's Affordable no longer carries the vertical mount "Avery" filter kit but has the conventional one (includes the new valve cover etc.) shown here http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/...gory_Code=1083

[rob mcdonald]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Of the several types of filter "kits" available, which one seems to work the best and is user friendly when changing the filter?

You may want to read the article in the “Model A Times” Volume One, Issue Three, July 2005.

The first filter kit reviewed, “A Ford Able Full Flow” is nearly a full flow but the filter is in the horizontal position with the bottom pointing outward. This kit is sold by most of the Model A suppliers.
I presently have one and recognized immediately that about 50% of the oil in this filter position drains back into both the valve chamber and some % of that backward into the pump. This means that after the car sits the oil pump must pump maybe 6 to 10 ounces to refill the filter before any oil is fully flowing into the valve camber and then to the mains.
I do not like the delay of oil flow! I have just purchased an expensive adapter to mount the filter vertical to keep the filter full and able to push oil into the value chamber immediately. Also less mess with the vertical.

The second filter kit reviewed was the “Timing Gear Cover” partial flow and I do not know if this system is still sold. But the review by “Model A Times” stated “ineffective”.

The third filter kit reviewed, “A Very Oil Filter” was sold exclusively by Mike’s and I had two prior to the “Model A Times” article. I liked this option because of the vertical no mess position of the filter with no major oil drain back plus the partial bypass instant flow.
This filter kit provided a copper sleeve to place around the oil pump drive gear that forced roughly 65% of the oil through the filter.
The drawbacks I heard for this filter is the “uneven mounting” of the filter adapter on an original valve cover that turned the filter into a vertical no mess position. Also the copper sleeve was not tightly mounted by one buyer.
This filter is no longer sold by Mike’s but he has had several people ask for his design primarily due to the no mess no drain back design.

If you could see the inside of the first filter I replaced on each of my three installations you may be amazed at the amount of heavy dirt particles the filter trapped. I kept the first filter on my last installation to try to find a camera that will capture the dirt.

This points out how effective a filter may be for our dirty old Model A’s. Also it is important we change the filters frequently until we are confident the filter will not become blocked and depending on the type of filter kit starve the engine of oil.

I am interested in the experience from others with filters.

And I realize there are many who have driven 100,000 miles on the original Babbitt and only change the oil twice. Oh and the oil was 2nd hand from the family sedan.

The FordBarn is great.

[B0B]

I bought a "remote filter kit sold for hot rods etc. " It cost $24.95 I got it on Ebay ...I bolted it to the flange that runs along the firewall using the existing bolts on the flange using a small piece of angle iron the filter is mounted by the fuel filter bowl it is upright and I can change it easy without spilling a drop of oil! ...I ran 3/8th inch heavy black fuel type hose down to the oil pump hole in the block using an adapter then removed the valve cover and drilled and tapped it for 1/8th inch pipe threads for another adapter this is where the output of the filter goes and it dumps into the front of the valve chamber ...I removed the return line from the filter stuck it in a cambells soup can and started the engine the can filled quickly so flow through the filter is fine ...I can also check it any time by holding my hand on the filter it gets hot indicating good flow ...I have had the filter on now for almost 2 years with no problems and have been changing the oil every 2000 miles ...The oil looks very clean even at 2000 miles and I am thinking of going to a 3000 mile oil change ...This filter IS NOT a full flow filter BUT every few minutes all the oil does go through the filter and gets cleaned ...Just in case I added an oil pressure gauge connected up at the filter input so I KNOW there is oil flow AND I know the oil pump etc. is working properly ... B0B in Michigan

[Gerard]

Bob , can you put a picture for us here ( for those who are intrested ? ) to show the way you installed it ? Thanks.

[rob mcdonald]

Also Bob is there any name or part number on the casting where we might be able to purchase. This seems to be both simple and cost effective. We do not need 100% filtering. Also for someone who makes the decision to change over to detergent oil there is a lot of dirt that needs to be trapped. On a fully filtered system that could lead to an engine starved for oil flow if the filter is too dirty. You system will filter and not starve the engine for oil. Your system can be much less expensive.
Thanks for bringing your system to our attention.

[m37]

I see this is an old thread, but just for the record most spin on, full flow, oil filters have a by-pass valve to allow oil to go around clogged media. However some don't when the by-pass valve is built into the engine. I would hope the people that made the kit did their homework.

[Bob Wright]

Mikes Affordable full flow oil filter works well with the vertical adapter available @ some "A" parts venders, and also Speedway motors as well as other speed shops. We have one on our Victoria and it works good. I also have used the kits on 2-previous A's, with the vertical adapter,WOW what a mess trying to spin the filter on when full with oil.

[KMeredith87]

Speaking of the vertical adapter...does anyone know if the dual carb intake can be used once the vertical adapter is added? I'm aware that it cannot be without it but would like to run dual carbs eventually but am unwilling to give up my oil filter...

[JohnLaVoy]

The article from the Model A Times is several years old. The A-Ford-Able style filter is sold I see it in Snyder's A-6705-F. I also add an adapter to turn the oil filter 90 degrees so that it is easy to install and remove with oil in it and not create a mess. The one is a Ford Racing part that I picked up from Speedway motors.

[Chris Haynes]

For years I ran a Frantz Oil Cleaner on my AA. It is a bypass filter that keeps the oil sparkling clean. I will have it on again when I finish my ground up rebuild.
www.wefilterit.com

[tbirdtbird]

for those of you having trouble draining the oil from a horiz. mounted filter, just position a bucket or container of choice under the end of the filter (or get a helper), and using a hefty awl (I use an old screwdriver with the blade ground to a point) and a small hammer, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and allow it to drain before you spin it off

[PC/SR]

KMederedith:You can run dual downdraft carbs with the vertical adapter shown in John Levoys pic above. Dual updrafts I don't know.

[Gold Digger]

I built two of the vertical type in the machine shop a few years ago for a customer. I end milled a square opening on the right end of cover for a piece of metal approximately 3/4 inch thick and brazed it in place. Been awhile back and can't remember, but used an aluminum part off of a 352 ford pickup engine that made a right angle that the oil filter screwed on to vertically. I transferred, drilled and taped bolt holes in plate for the aluminum part and drilled the necessary oil holes for the oil line and taped the inside hole for the oil inlet pipe. Remember we had to figure out if the oil feed in threw the center of the filter or the outer ring, again can't remember now which way. Don't know how he connected the oil line to the engine oil feed hole. I have always intended to build one for myself since he said his worked good.

[CarlG]

Since I started this thread over 3-1/2 years ago, I can report that I did indeed install an A-Ford-Able filter unit (I think I got it from Mike's, but most vendors have them). I also am using one of the 90 degree adapters shown in post #14. I bought mine on eBay since Speedway won't ship to Alaska.

Bottom line is that it works really well and have no problem with spilling oil everywhere when changing the filter.

[Harley03joe]

What Do You Guys Think Of The Timing Side Cover Filter ?

Model A Oil Filter Kit
The plate mounts on the front of the engine where the timing side cover is. Easy to install with no modifications at all. U.S.A.

From Snyders Antique Auto
A-6705 $99.00 / ea.
1928-31
Please Let Me Know Ok
Thanks
Harley03joe

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Harley03joe

What Do You Guys Think Of The Timing Side Cover Filter ?

Model A Oil Filter Kit
The plate mounts on the front of the engine where the timing side cover is. Easy to install with no modifications at all. U.S.A.

From Snyders Antique Auto
A-6705 $99.00 / ea.
1928-31
Please Let Me Know Ok
Thanks
Harley03joe

Post 7 above from testing several types;
"The second filter kit reviewed was the “Timing Gear Cover” partial flow and I do not know if this system is still sold. But the review by “Model A Times” stated “ineffective”."

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Post 7 above from testing several types;
"The second filter kit reviewed was the “Timing Gear Cover” partial flow and I do not know if this system is still sold. But the review by “Model A Times” stated “ineffective”."

Ok Mike What Would You Suggest If I Wanted To Put A Oil Filter On My 31 ?
Thanks
Harley03joe

Ok Mike This Is The One I Should Use Right ?

[Mike V. Florida]

I can't see pictures with the server I'm using at work.

But, based on the results of the magazine testing in post 7, the second is ineffective and the third is no longer available that leaves the best one the first one "A Ford Able Full Flow".

[bettlesr]

I use the "Taylor" timing side cover filter adapter with a right angle adapter. It and my engine were both converted to full flow. The April 2010 issue of Secrets of Speed magazine has the information needed to convert the adapter for full flow use.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by bettlesr

I use the "Taylor" timing side cover filter adapter with a right angle adapter. It and my engine were both converted to full flow. The April 201 issue of Secrets of Speed magazine has the information needed to convert the adapter for full flow use.

That's a clean looking setup.
Is that brass line going to an oil pressure gauge?

[bettlesr]

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Tom Wesenberg:
Yes it is. That tee fitting was the hardest part of the setup to find. AN through to 1/8" pipe. The copper tubing does a strain relief loop behind the engine and then through the wiring block on the fire wall. The tube is covered with hd heat shrink tubing where it goes through the firewall to insulate it from the wiring and terminals. The information I have for the filter adapter is: Taylor Filter Kits, 4713 W 97th Place, Oak lawn, IL 60453 (708) 499-8622

[Harley03joe]

Thank You All For Your Input.
Harley03joe

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by bettlesr

Tom Wesenberg:
Yes it is. That tee fitting was the hardest part of the setup to find. AN through to 1/8" pipe. The copper tubing does a strain relief loop behind the engine and then through the wiring block on the fire wall. The tube is covered with hd heat shrink tubing where it goes through the firewall to insulate it from the wiring and terminals. The information I have for the filter adapter is: Taylor Filter Kits, 4713 W 97th Place, Oak lawn, IL 60453 (708) 499-8622

Could you possibly elaborate on the process to do the full flow conversion? It a nice looking setup. I see your feed is coming into the housing in the normal spot. Drilled and tapped hole out the back and into the side cover. Whats done inside the cover? anything?

[bettlesr]

I wii try to copy the pages when I get home next week.

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by rob mcdonald

You may want to read the article in the “Model A Times” Volume One, Issue Three, July 2005.

The first filter kit reviewed, “A Ford Able Full Flow” is nearly a full flow but the filter is in the horizontal position with the bottom pointing outward. This kit is sold by most of the Model A suppliers.
I presently have one and recognized immediately that about 50% of the oil in this filter position drains back into both the valve chamber and some % of that backward into the pump. This means that after the car sits the oil pump must pump maybe 6 to 10 ounces to refill the filter before any oil is fully flowing into the valve camber and then to the mains.
I do not like the delay of oil flow! I have just purchased an expensive adapter to mount the filter vertical to keep the filter full and able to push oil into the value chamber immediately. Also less mess with the vertical.

The second filter kit reviewed was the “Timing Gear Cover” partial flow and I do not know if this system is still sold. But the review by “Model A Times” stated “ineffective”.

The third filter kit reviewed, “A Very Oil Filter” was sold exclusively by Mike’s and I had two prior to the “Model A Times” article. I liked this option because of the vertical no mess position of the filter with no major oil drain back plus the partial bypass instant flow.
This filter kit provided a copper sleeve to place around the oil pump drive gear that forced roughly 65% of the oil through the filter.
The drawbacks I heard for this filter is the “uneven mounting” of the filter adapter on an original valve cover that turned the filter into a vertical no mess position. Also the copper sleeve was not tightly mounted by one buyer.
This filter is no longer sold by Mike’s but he has had several people ask for his design primarily due to the no mess no drain back design.

If you could see the inside of the first filter I replaced on each of my three installations you may be amazed at the amount of heavy dirt particles the filter trapped. I kept the first filter on my last installation to try to find a camera that will capture the dirt.

This points out how effective a filter may be for our dirty old Model A’s. Also it is important we change the filters frequently until we are confident the filter will not become blocked and depending on the type of filter kit starve the engine of oil.

I am interested in the experience from others with filters.

And I realize there are many who have driven 100,000 miles on the original Babbitt and only change the oil twice. Oh and the oil was 2nd hand from the family sedan.

The FordBarn is great.

Gill
Your Write Up Is Great, But No Part Numbers ?

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by bettlesr

I wii try to copy the pages when I get home next week.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to seeing it

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by bettlesr

I wii try to copy the pages when I get home next week.

I managed to get a hold of that article. It seems that article is more aimed at full pressure modifications. I see and understand what needs to be done to the filter housing but what do you do inside the engine if just wanting to filter the oil?. I'm assuming just plugging the oil tube in the valve chamber? And at what point does the oil need to enter back into the engine? Back towards the front where the stock tube is, or center?

[ian Simpson]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

for those of you having trouble draining the oil from a horiz. mounted filter, just position a bucket or container of choice under the end of the filter (or get a helper), and using a hefty awl (I use an old screwdriver with the blade ground to a point) and a small hammer, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and allow it to drain before you spin it off

My Lotus Europa fitted with a Renault engine had a horizontal filter, as did my Renault 10 and Renault 12. (BTW Renault engines in the late 60's, early 70's were fantastic bits of engineering. Too bad the transmissions and bodywork did not keep pace.)

I used an old screwdriver to drive through the filter and turn it off, with a bucket underneath of course.

[Bob Bidonde]

Looking at Snyder's oil filter kit, it appears that filtered oil bypasses the valve chamber where the crankshaft and camshaft bearing oil feeds are. Is this so?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Looking at Snyder's oil filter kit, it appears that filtered oil bypasses the valve chamber where the crankshaft and camshaft bearing oil feeds are. Is this so?

Snyder's has 2 kits. Which one are you talking about?

[Bob Bidonde]

Here is a remote oil filter kit that can be connected with hoses. The output hose should go into the valve chamber to keep the crankshaft and camshaft oil feeds full. It's a FRAM XG8A 1HP.

[Bob Bidonde]

CarlG
This one

[katy]

Got a part # and source for that setup w/the Fram filter?

[Bob Bidonde]

Katy,
It's a FRAM XG8A 1HP. Google it for a source and check eBay.

[katy]

Thanks

[RobertB]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Katy,
It's a FRAM XG8A 1HP. Google it for a source and check eBay.

Bob, that's just the filter...what about the remote mount gizmo?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Looking at Snyder's oil filter kit, it appears that filtered oil bypasses the valve chamber where the crankshaft and camshaft bearing oil feeds are. Is this so?

Originally Posted by Harley03joe

What Do You Guys Think Of The Timing Side Cover Filter ?

Model A Oil Filter Kit
The plate mounts on the front of the engine where the timing side cover is. Easy to install with no modifications at all. U.S.A.

From Snyders Antique Auto
A-6705 $99.00 / ea.
1928-31
Please Let Me Know Ok
Thanks
Harley03joe

Post #7 quotes an article in the Model A Times that says this filter is "ineffective". It only filters a small portion of the oil, and sends it to the timing gear, bypassing the oil chamber.

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

CarlG
This one

Bob This Is What Rod Wrote About That Filter Set Up

ROD Post #7 >>> The second filter kit reviewed was the “Timing Gear Cover” partial flow and I do not know if this system is still sold. But the review by “Model A Times” stated “ineffective”.

Now What Bob ???
Harley03joe

[katy]

Found it in my 1990 Fram catalogue, P/N HPK2

http://www.amazon.com/Fram-HPK2-Spin.../dp/B000CBSFUE

[Harley03joe]

Question:
What Are The Pro's And Con's On Installing An Oil Filter ?
Should It Be Done On A 31 Ford ? And Why Didn't Ford Put One On The 31
4 Cyl ?

What was the first car fitted with a replaceable cartridge oil filter?
Answer It Was The 1924 Chrysler.
I Wonder Why Ford Left That Important Part Off There Cars ?

Maybe Some One Can Elaborate On This Subject

Thank You Harley03joe

[mrtexas]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Ford was cheap cheap cheap

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

Ford was cheap cheap cheap

Ha Ha Thank You For The Answer
BUT Not The One I Was Looking For
Harley03joe

P. S. The 31 Is Not Cheap Any More

[1931 flamingo]

If you're following the "guidelines" and changing every 500 mi or so you probably DON'T need a filter. JMO
Paul in CT

[katy]

In 1955 a friend of my older brother won a new Pontiac (Canadian) in a draw, that car was the cheapest Pontiac available, 6 cylinder, no oil filter, no radio. You paid extra if you wanted those options.

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

If you're following the "guidelines" and changing every 500 mi or so you probably DON'T need a filter. JMO
Paul in CT

I See The Word PROBABLY & Might >>> Not Good Words
Thank You For Your Info
Harley03joe
P. S. I Added Might

[bdave_mcc]

Still been researching the oil filter thing. For anyone that was looking for it. Here is a remote mount from summit 20 bucks part number prm-1211
image.jpg

[bdave_mcc]

Do any of you guys know if the valve cover can be welded on? Trying to come up with a leak free entry for the oil back into the valve chamber

[katy]

Bob, in post #8 said:

removed the valve cover and drilled and tapped it for 1/8th inch pipe threads

Sounds like a good solution to me.

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by katy

Bob, in post #8 said:



Sounds like a good solution to me.

Yeah I can do that but i need a fitting of some sore on the inside of the valve cover to get the oil directed the right way. In the original system the oil is blasted frontward out the dump tube and splashes forward all over the place. I need to replicate this as I will be plugging the stock dump tube. I would like to weld an elbow or something to the inside of the cover.

[CarlG]

I would think that just dumping it anywhere in the first chamber would be sufficient. That's what the "A-Ford-Able" filter does.

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I would think that just dumping it anywhere in the first chamber would be sufficient. That's what the "A-Ford-Able" filter does.

You're right, I just want to cover all my bases so I can end up with a best possible scenario situation. I definitely want to filter the oil for my new engine...don't want to blow it up either

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I would think that just dumping it anywhere in the first chamber would be sufficient. That's what the "A-Ford-Able" filter does.

Ok Carl. I just want to be clear. The a ford able filter literally just dumps the oil straight back into the front chamber? Nothing fancy going on...That makes things easier for me. Probably just over thinking it.

[denis4x4]

Just removed an A-Ford-Able filter with a remote canister that can be used with headers. Had to cut the tubing to remove it, but it can be made to work. Includes original instructions. Pay the FedEx ground fees and it can be yours for free! PM me.

[denis4x4]

Originally Posted by denis4x4

Just removed an A-Ford-Able filter with a remote canister that can be used with headers. Had to cut the tubing to remove it, but it can be made to work. Includes original instructions. Pay the FedEx ground fees and it can be yours for free! PM me.

It's gone! No more PM's please.

[updraught]

So how does the oil line plug into the block?

[CarlG]

That little piece of tubing shown above is stuffed into the hole that discharges oil into the chamber, forces the oil into the filter then back into the chamber.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by denis4x4

Just removed an A-Ford-Able filter with a remote canister that can be used with headers. Had to cut the tubing to remove it, but it can be made to work. Includes original instructions. Pay the FedEx ground fees and it can be yours for free! PM me.

Do you have pictures and/or instructions as to how you accomplished this?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by bdave_mcc

Ok Carl. I just want to be clear. The a ford able filter literally just dumps the oil straight back into the front chamber? Nothing fancy going on...That makes things easier for me. Probably just over thinking it.

Just imagine in the drawing above, the oil comes out of the filter into a hole in the valve cover. No other fitting or anything. The only fitting is to get the oil INTO the filter. There is nothing on the exit side.

[denis4x4]

Used the adapter with a 3/8" union and hose.

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by bettlesr

I use the "Taylor" timing side cover filter adapter with a right angle adapter. It and my engine were both converted to full flow. The April 2010 issue of Secrets of Speed magazine has the information needed to convert the adapter for full flow use.

I really like how you did this...I cant seem to find the article in SOS to convert to full flow

[brokenspoke]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by B0B

I bought a "remote filter kit sold for hot rods etc. " It cost $24.95 I got it on Ebay ...I bolted it to the flange that runs along the firewall using the existing bolts on the flange using a small piece of angle iron the filter is mounted by the fuel filter bowl it is upright and I can change it easy without spilling a drop of oil! ...I ran 3/8th inch heavy black fuel type hose down to the oil pump hole in the block using an adapter then removed the valve cover and drilled and tapped it for 1/8th inch pipe threads for another adapter this is where the output of the filter goes and it dumps into the front of the valve chamber ...I removed the return line from the filter stuck it in a cambells soup can and started the engine the can filled quickly so flow through the filter is fine ...I can also check it any time by holding my hand on the filter it gets hot indicating good flow ...I have had the filter on now for almost 2 years with no problems and have been changing the oil every 2000 miles ...The oil looks very clean even at 2000 miles and I am thinking of going to a 3000 mile oil change ...This filter IS NOT a full flow filter BUT every few minutes all the oil does go through the filter and gets cleaned ...Just in case I added an oil pressure gauge connected up at the filter input so I KNOW there is oil flow AND I know the oil pump etc. is working properly ... B0B in Michigan

After reading above. I don't agree with the Model A times on why the Taylor filter is ineffective. I'm thinking about using the Taylor adapter, but pulling the oil from inside the valve chamber like the Afordable filter, to a bulk head fitting in the cover, to the Taylor adapter , but instead of dumping the oil into cam gear area, reroute the discharge to the valve cover ...I have tube header so I'm looking for a way to filter my oil.. any thoughts?

[Dollar Bill]

The only problem I see is that it doesn't filter 100% of the oil but some filtration is better than none as in Henrys original design.