The Ford Barn

Mark W. · 11-10-2014, 12:37 PM

I'm started to tear into my 29 Roadster engine just to do the bad valves only to discover the rear main Babbitt is delaminating from the block, so now I'm going long and deep into the engine.

The original rear main cap was a forged style with thinner mounting ears and has had the oil tube soldered to the cap at some point in time. I also have a later cast cap - which one is the better alternative?

Also - does anyone know a source for the tiny freeze-plug in the back of these caps?

And lastly, is there a master list of ball-bearings in an A that would cover the pilot, and tranny bearing numbers? If I'm going to be that deep in the tranny is getting done too...

Thanks

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 11-10-2014, 01:07 PM

Either cap will be fine and provide good service.

NAPA has the welch plugs that you need.

Some of the bearings are not manufactured by bearing companies per se' and you must source them thru a Model-A parts vendor. I have also found that most of the bearings are generally cheaper by just buying them thru a Model-A vendor.

Tom Wesenberg · 11-10-2014, 01:37 PM

I agree with Brent on the bearings.
On the rear main cap be sure to use the 2 bolts that match the cap.

Mark W. · 11-11-2014, 12:28 PM

Thanks guys - I'll use the cast cap as I don't like the idea that the tube needed to be soldered there in the first place. Thanks for the source for the plugs - I'm pretty sure the shop doing the Babbitt will have them, but not 100% positive.

As for the bearings, the company I work for cleaned out their maintenance department a few months back and tossed out a milk-crate sized box overflowing with new (old) bearings - all wrapped and (believe it or not) made in the US. I'm guessing most are no newer than 1970's. I was hopeful that I might get lucky there - at $.09 per pound scrap I got the pile for about $15.00

Once I get the tranny apart, I'll compare them before calling Tam's

Bob C · 11-11-2014, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark W.

Thanks guys - I'll use the cast cap as I don't like the idea that the tube needed to be soldered there in the first place. Thanks for the source for the plugs - I'm pretty sure the shop doing the Babbitt will have them, but not 100% positive.

As for the bearings, the company I work for cleaned out their maintenance department a few months back and tossed out a milk-crate sized box overflowing with new (old) bearings - all wrapped and (believe it or not) made in the US. I'm guessing most are no newer than 1970's. I was hopeful that I might get lucky there - at $.09 per pound scrap I got the pile for about $15.00

Once I get the tranny apart, I'll compare them before calling Tam's

They were that way from the factory, see page 306 of the Service Bulletins.

Bob

James Rogers · 11-11-2014, 01:35 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

They were that way from the factory, see page 306 of the Service Bulletins.

Bob

Actually, they were welded.

Bob C · 11-11-2014, 02:30 PM

Your right James, the Service Bulletins say to cut the weld on the old
one and solder the new one on.

Bob

Purdy Swoft · 11-11-2014, 04:36 PM

I agree, the drain tube on the rear main cap is spot welded to all of the caps originally whether the cap is forged or cast . The thin forged early main bearing cap is the better choice because it can be tinned and the babbit will hold to the cap like the front and center caps. Cast iron generally can't be tinned and the babbit gets peined in place.

Here is the original part numbers for the transmissiion bearings . The front main drive or input shaft ball bearing number is A-7025 . The rear main shaft ball bearing number is A-7065 . There is a roller bearing that fits in the rear of the cluster gear and another that fits on the front of the main shaft part number A-7118 . There is a long roller bearing that fits the front of the cluster gear part number A-7121 This is original Ford part numbers . The best I can do for the pilot bearing number is A-7600 and is a sealed bearing and not necessarily an original number.

Mark W. · 11-12-2014, 12:38 PM

Thanks again guys - I'll see what lurks below the gobs of solder and see if it can be tapped.

If I can, I'd prefer the forging - if not I look at it this way - if the Babbitt shop can make it stick to the block, they can make it stick to the cap. It aint like I'm using some fly-by-night to do this work...

11-10-2014, 12:37 PM	#1
Mark W. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 342	A couple rebuilding questions I'm started to tear into my 29 Roadster engine just to do the bad valves only to discover the rear main Babbitt is delaminating from the block, so now I'm going long and deep into the engine. The original rear main cap was a forged style with thinner mounting ears and has had the oil tube soldered to the cap at some point in time. I also have a later cast cap - which one is the better alternative? Also - does anyone know a source for the tiny freeze-plug in the back of these caps? And lastly, is there a master list of ball-bearings in an A that would cover the pilot, and tranny bearing numbers? If I'm going to be that deep in the tranny is getting done too... Thanks

11-10-2014, 01:07 PM	#2
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,519	Re: A couple rebuilding questions Either cap will be fine and provide good service. NAPA has the welch plugs that you need. Some of the bearings are not manufactured by bearing companies per se' and you must source them thru a Model-A parts vendor. I have also found that most of the bearings are generally cheaper by just buying them thru a Model-A vendor. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

11-10-2014, 01:37 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: A couple rebuilding questions I agree with Brent on the bearings. On the rear main cap be sure to use the 2 bolts that match the cap.

11-11-2014, 12:28 PM	#4
Mark W. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 342	Re: A couple rebuilding questions Thanks guys - I'll use the cast cap as I don't like the idea that the tube needed to be soldered there in the first place. Thanks for the source for the plugs - I'm pretty sure the shop doing the Babbitt will have them, but not 100% positive. As for the bearings, the company I work for cleaned out their maintenance department a few months back and tossed out a milk-crate sized box overflowing with new (old) bearings - all wrapped and (believe it or not) made in the US. I'm guessing most are no newer than 1970's. I was hopeful that I might get lucky there - at $.09 per pound scrap I got the pile for about $15.00 Once I get the tranny apart, I'll compare them before calling Tam's

11-11-2014, 02:30 PM	#7
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,753	Re: A couple rebuilding questions Your right James, the Service Bulletins say to cut the weld on the old one and solder the new one on. Bob

11-11-2014, 04:36 PM	#8
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: A couple rebuilding questions I agree, the drain tube on the rear main cap is spot welded to all of the caps originally whether the cap is forged or cast . The thin forged early main bearing cap is the better choice because it can be tinned and the babbit will hold to the cap like the front and center caps. Cast iron generally can't be tinned and the babbit gets peined in place. Here is the original part numbers for the transmissiion bearings . The front main drive or input shaft ball bearing number is A-7025 . The rear main shaft ball bearing number is A-7065 . There is a roller bearing that fits in the rear of the cluster gear and another that fits on the front of the main shaft part number A-7118 . There is a long roller bearing that fits the front of the cluster gear part number A-7121 This is original Ford part numbers . The best I can do for the pilot bearing number is A-7600 and is a sealed bearing and not necessarily an original number.

11-12-2014, 12:38 PM	#9
Mark W. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 342	Re: A couple rebuilding questions Thanks again guys - I'll see what lurks below the gobs of solder and see if it can be tapped. If I can, I'd prefer the forging - if not I look at it this way - if the Babbitt shop can make it stick to the block, they can make it stick to the cap. It aint like I'm using some fly-by-night to do this work...