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01-04-2016, 09:12 PM | #1 |
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cast-iron welding ?
I'm taking a vote.... How reliable is this repair?
It's a driver side '57 T-Bird (only) exhaust manifold, the lower tab at the rear of cyl. #8 broke off, was built back up and smoothed. The missing piece was fully outside the exhaust passage. If I use it, it's my intention to mount it to the head with a large washer under the bolt head and without a gasket, as original. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 01-04-2016 at 10:14 PM. |
01-04-2016, 09:31 PM | #2 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
I would have it machined flat before mounting. Also, check hardness of weld to determine whether to mill or grind. Looks like it is welded good. Wouldn't be afraid to use it. Good luck!
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01-04-2016, 10:18 PM | #3 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
I put a straight-edge over the whole thing, with a light on the other side, and it looks good.
Having it lightly surfaced can't hurt.... I'm more concerned about it possibly breaking off again and having an exhaust leak. Thanks |
01-04-2016, 10:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
Looks pretty straight from eyeballin
I say give it a go. Good luck Oldmics |
01-05-2016, 04:22 AM | #5 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
Only one way to find out!
Make sure its flat. |
01-05-2016, 07:26 AM | #6 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
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01-05-2016, 08:36 AM | #7 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
Run a big flat file over the mounting surface so it's nice and flat. Use a big flat washer and take it easy tightening it up. Are you using bolts or studs? On that one I'd rather see a stud used. But a good fix if it holds up.
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01-05-2016, 12:29 PM | #8 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
It should be good with the stock flat washer, if you don't over tighten it. The holes are over sized to allow the manifold to get longer and shorter. The casting should slide under the washers. I don't know the correct torque for these bolts, but a good guess would be as low as 12 to 16 pounds feet.
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01-05-2016, 08:48 PM | #9 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
Yes the tab is a small one, I guess to match where the head casting is curved in on the bottom of the front & back ends so you can put a socket on the lower head bolts.
Thanks for all the advice and tips. They're much appreciated. I'll give this manifold a try. It's easy enough to change later if it leaks after a while. The hard part is finding a good used one. I may have to eventually spring for a re-pop part. Thanks again. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 01-06-2016 at 04:15 PM. |
01-06-2016, 05:03 PM | #10 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
If you are going to try to arc-weld the pieces, talk to a local welder. I think he will tell you that the weld will not hold unless heat is applied for a time after weld is complete.
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01-06-2016, 05:06 PM | #11 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
If you could find one of those heavy cupped washers like the 300 six uses, I wouldn't worry.
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01-08-2016, 07:19 PM | #12 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
I had a engine from a wreck with only 7000 miles on it and it broke the bell housing ear off. Had it welded in Nevada IA, they heat the whole block up. Reassembled the engine with the original parts and it went over 100,000 miles without ever cracking or breaking. I just figured they really knew what they were doing. The shop owner told me the dimensions of the block wouldn't change since the whole block was heated.
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01-08-2016, 07:25 PM | #13 |
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Re: cast-iron welding ?
For a small tab on an exhaust manifold, I have had great luck gas welding them. Never had a come back.
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