removing a model a wire wheel

[1917modelt]

i know this will sound dumb
i really dont know the answer
i just bought a 1928 Model A rolling chassis.
its been sitting outside for a while, and has rust issues.
i never removed a Model A wire wheel .....
i realize that i have to remove the lug nuts, will the wire wheel come off from the hub ?
and do i have to remove the inner wheel bearing also ?
maybe someone can suggest a good illustrated book.

thanks,

Rick

[Brubaker]

Minus the five lug nuts it will come right off. May need to give it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet though.
FYI: There are no dumb questions,….unless you ask "how do I chop a coupe" (that would just be mean!).

[Mike V. Florida]

i realize that i have to remove the lug nuts, will the wire wheel come off from the hub ?\

Yes


maybe someone can suggest a good illustrated book.

Les Andrews red book

[1917modelt]

do you suggest applying some heat to the lug nuts ?
like i said the car, frame has a bit of rust.
might take gallons of WD-40

[Brubaker]

For loosening stuck nuts/bolts I'm a big fan of the Kano Kroil products, specifically Aerokroil. WELL worth the money per can. Oh, and a four-foot piece of pipe to fit over your ratchet handle won't hurt either (leverage!). Good luck.

[Dick Webber]

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If the lug nuts don't come off readily, I would heat them since paint preservation is apparently not an issue. With a big pipe you may twist off the studs in the drum.

[SeaSlugs]

yea no different than a modern car rim/hub setup - remove the lugs and the rim SHOULD slide off...

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Brubaker

... A four-foot piece of pipe to fit over your ratchet handle won't hurt either (leverage!).

Originally Posted by Dick Webber

With a big pipe you may twist off the studs in the drum.

Not to mention ruining your ratchet. Use the proper tools! A breaker bar and a six sided socket.

[mike657894]

oil. if your doing it right now wd40/kroil/pb if you want to let it set put some good old real oil on it as it wont dry and still will be wet when you come back. use a breaker bar if it takes much more force than that more oil and let it sit.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Brubaker

For loosening stuck nuts/bolts I'm a big fan of the Kano Kroil products, specifically Aerokroil. WELL worth the money per can. Oh, and a four-foot piece of pipe to fit over your ratchet handle won't hurt either (leverage!). Good luck.

I don't agree with a four foot Piece of pipe as I think it can do harm to both the car and the ratchet. Use the proper tools combined with a penetrant and heat and not just brute force ! Wayne

[Patrick L.]

If you're not worried about paint and the nuts don't want to come off, I'm a believer in heat.
These studs can sometimes twist so I'd recommend taking it easy on them.
They are all right hand thread.

[Pinesdune]

Soak with penetrating oil for as long as you can, then a little heat (even from a propane torch would help) then voila! Heat and oil are your friends, penetrating oil only goes in so far on a rusty nut, it takes a little heat to break the rust bond to spin them free, and it'll be more likley to save the threads/studs which can be a pain to replace (I just had to go through this on my sport coupe) if you don't have a heavy press and the right tools. Just as Patrick L. said above, these studs are only held in place by a little tab and pressure (they're rivited in/swagged). You can remove the fronts easy by removing the nut and bearing, but the rears need a puller on the hub and you can't get at the groove for the puller until the wheels off.

[RockHillWill]

Consider this: I have made a tool for removing a stuck drum, but the idea might be able to be modified either in its building or using it as it is. I cut and welded a ring of 1/4" plate and welded it to the hub cap area and then used a three pronged puller to take it off. It would slightly damage the wheel by the welding, but if the wheel is in that bad a condition, it might not be that big of a loss and you could cut it down as I did here: http://www.mantiquesresto.com/Restor...oolSale01.html
and then keep that wheel as a tool to remove stuck drums, etc. Click on the picture at the lower right of the page. - Just a thought to get the brain moving!

As always, just the thoughts of an old man.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

FORTUNATELY, they're NOT splined to the hubs, like Jaguars, M.G.'s, etc, with knock offs!
I'm sure some of you have HORROR stories about those.
Bill W.

[Charlie Stephens]

Rick,

I know this will sound dumb
I don't really know the answer
Have you tried taking the wheels off or are you just speculating that you will have problems? I can't see in either of your posts that you have tired and have actually encountered a problem, which I don't expect you will.

Charlie Stephens

[Bruce Lancaster]

If the nuts are stock, they are acorn type...which gives them MUCH more isolation from water and rust than normal open lugs. Go to it with breaker bar and socket, and don't worry about problems unless they actually appear.

[Indiana A. Lover]

I learned the wonderful advantage of 6 point sockets and 6 point hand wrenchs. Always use them you will like them Don just waiting for spring!!!

[mike657894]

put anti seize on the studs before you put them back on and they will stay nice and free.