The Ford Barn

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 08:58 AM

I have a '31 coupe with the stock transmission and clutch. I can no longer get the car into any gear and I'm thinking I need to drop the transmission so I can get to the clutch and see what's going on.

Yesterday I removed the inspection plate that sits on top of the bell housing and with the car running I could see the pressure plate spinning. When I pushed the clutch pedal in the pressure plate keeps spinning so the clutch won't engage and let me shift into any gear.

Do I need to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate? There are six nuts on the pressure plate that look like they could be adjusted? When I push the clutch in the throw out bearing moves freely but it doesn't even come close to contacting the fingers on the pressure plate.

I do have a Les Andrews book and before I decide to remove the transmission from the car to inspect the clutch, is there anything else I should be checking or is there a way to adjust the fingers?

Thanks!

Tom Wesenberg · 05-14-2012, 09:04 AM

You shouldn't have to touch the 6 fingers adjustment. You might need to adjust the clutch link at the bottom of the pedal. How much freeplay does the pedal have?

Cider Mill · 05-14-2012, 09:18 AM

I had the same problem - stuck clutch. My cure was to open the inspection plate and spray Kroil on the shaft that the throw out bearing rides on for several days in a row. Then with car in gear, but not running rock car back & forth until it releases. Do a seach on this forum for "stuck clutch" - there is lots of advice available.

bogdonj · 05-14-2012, 09:20 AM

check to see if you have 1 inch of free play before contacting the fingers like Tom W said! Has the car been sitting for awhile or did this just appear out of no were?

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You shouldn't have to touch the 6 fingers adjustment. You might need to adjust the clutch link at the bottom of the pedal. How much freeplay does the pedal have?

I've tried adjusting the link at the bottom of the clutch pedal multiple times and even with 1" or 2" of pedal free play I still can't get it into gear.

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 09:53 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cider Mill

I had the same problem - stuck clutch. My cure was to open the inspection plate and spray Kroil on the shaft that the throw out bearing rides on for several days in a row. Then with car in gear, but not running rock car back & forth until it releases. Do a seach on this forum for "stuck clutch" - there is lots of advice available.

Thanks. I'll search the forum for stuck clutch.

Bob C · 05-14-2012, 09:57 AM

The Service Bulletins recommend 3/4" of free play 2" is way to much.

Bob

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogdonj

check to see if you have 1 inch of free play before contacting the fingers like Tom W said! Has the car been sitting for awhile or did this just appear out of no were?

I drove the car a couple of times last fall and was having difficulties shifting into any gear at a stop sign. I would have to sit at the stop sign for roughly 30 seconds or so before I could shift it into gear. The car has been sitting all winter and this spring when I went to pull it out of the garage I was unable to get it into gear.

Rusty Homestead Fl · 05-14-2012, 10:08 AM

Sometimes when a car sits for a while the clutch disc will stick to the flywheel. With key off or coil wire pulled you can try rocking the car in gear, with clutch pushed in, or pulling it with another car in gear. Put the shifter in gear (2nd or 3rd) with motor off and key in off position and clutch depressed. Pull with another car, slowly, until the dicsc breaks loose from the flywheel. You'll feel it when it does. Have some form of communication with the pulling vehicle so you can stop together.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-14-2012, 10:12 AM

It sounds like Cider Mill's solution might be the answer. When installing a tranny or clutch, it's important to make sure the disc slides easily on the splines, and I always put a light coat of grease on the splines to keep them from rusting. Try the Kroil.

Years ago I got the stuck clutch on a 1952 Desoto unstuck by putting it in gear, then starting the engine with the front bumper against a tree. It was fluid drive, so I could start the engine and push in the clutch, then give it some gas. That broke the disc to flywheel bond, and the cluch worked fine after that.

You could start the car in first gear, then push the clutch in and give it gas and let off several times. If the disc is stuck to the flywheel, this might break the bond.

midgetracer · 05-14-2012, 10:17 AM

The pressure plate will always spin with the engine. It is bolted to the flywheel. The clutch disk is what has to stop to allow shifting. I think you have way to much free play. adjust the trunion on the clutch pedal until you have only a small amount of free play. Look inside the inspection cover and make sure the throw out bearing is not spinning with the clutch released and that it touches the clutch fingers with a small depression of the pedal. It should shift fine then.
Also 600wt oil is necessary in the transmission to stop the gears. 90wt will cause the transmission gears to grind since there is a tendency for the gears to keep spinning.

1931 flamingo · 05-14-2012, 10:22 AM

Ck the arm on the side of the trans, could it be cracked and not giving full motion to te t/out brg??
Paul in CT

Will N · 05-14-2012, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '31 Patina

I drove the car a couple of times last fall and was having difficulties shifting into any gear at a stop sign. I would have to sit at the stop sign for roughly 30 seconds or so before I could shift it into gear. The car has been sitting all winter and this spring when I went to pull it out of the garage I was unable to get it into gear.

I had a situation where the clutch arm cracked where the retaining pin that holds it on the shaft goes through. Each time I stepped on the clutch, the arm would loosen up on the shaft a little more as the crack widened. It started off feeling that the clutch pedal was easier to depress, and with each step on the clutch, it would be harder to get into the next gear. Got to the point where the clutch wouldn't release at all. I tried a roadside fix of putting a vice grip around the clutch arm to try to tighten it on the shaft. No good, had to get flatbedded home.

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

It sounds like Cider Mill's solution might be the answer. When installing a tranny or clutch, it's important to make sure the disc slides easily on the splines, and I always put a light coat of grease on the splines to keep them from rusting. Try the Kroil.

Years ago I got the stuck clutch on a 1952 Desoto unstuck by putting it in gear, then starting the engine with the front bumper against a tree. It was fluid drive, so I could start the engine and push in the clutch, then give it some gas. That broke the disc to flywheel bond, and the cluch worked fine after that.

You could start the car in first gear, then push the clutch in and give it gas and let off several times. If the disc is stuck to the flywheel, this might break the bond.

I did a search on 'stuck clutch' and someone said they put the car up on jacks, started in gear, and then pushed the clutch in followed by applying the brakes. Is this worth a try? Does it matter what gear I start it in?

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will N

I had a situation where the clutch arm cracked where the retaining pin that holds it on the shaft goes through. Each time I stepped on the clutch, the arm would loosen up on the shaft a little more as the crack widened. It started off feeling that the clutch pedal was easier to depress, and with each step on the clutch, it would be harder to get into the next gear. Got to the point where the clutch wouldn't release at all. I tried a roadside fix of putting a vice grip around the clutch arm to try to tighten it on the shaft. No good, had to get flatbedded home.

I will check the clutch arm for cracks. Thanks.

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by midgetracer

The pressure plate will always spin with the engine. It is bolted to the flywheel. The clutch disk is what has to stop to allow shifting. I think you have way to much free play. adjust the trunion on the clutch pedal until you have only a small amount of free play. Look inside the inspection cover and make sure the throw out bearing is not spinning with the clutch released and that it touches the clutch fingers with a small depression of the pedal. It should shift fine then.
Also 600wt oil is necessary in the transmission to stop the gears. 90wt will cause the transmission gears to grind since there is a tendency for the gears to keep spinning.

Okay...so it's normal for the pressure plate to always spin with the engine? I did not know that so that's why I thought something was wrong when I pulled the inspection cover off and saw the plate spinning with the clutch in.

I'm a little confused with the free play term? I understand it as how much the pedal can move before the clutch engages? I had the adjusting arm turned almost all the way in where I thought I had about 1" of free play in the pedal. Maybe I don't understand the free play part?? I did buy a new adjusting arm and trunion last fall but no matter where I adjusted it I still couldn't get the car in gear.

Thanks everyone for your help so far. I plan on trying some of the things mentioned tonight. I will let you know the results.

jkeesey · 05-14-2012, 11:38 AM

Remove your inspection cover and look inside. With the no pressure on the clutch pedal the throwout bearing should not be contacting the pressure plate. It should have at least a quarter of an inch to be safe . The 1-2" that everyone is refering to is at the foot pedal end I hope. Putting the car on jacks like you described works great I just did it to a car this morning.

jkeesey · 05-14-2012, 11:41 AM

Being that the car was doing this before you put it away I would check to make sure your full of 600wt oil or your clutch could be getting worn. Generally a clutch doesn't stick on a car that is being driven they stick when sitting for long periods of time.

JoeWay · 05-14-2012, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '31 Patina

...I'm a little confused with the free play term? I understand it as how much the pedal can move before the clutch engages?...

Pedal free play is the short distance the pedal moves from the rest position before the "lost motion" is taken up--that is, before it can be felt that the pedal is beginning to do some work. It's best felt with the hand rather than the foot.

1" is the standard recommendation. You can get by with less, but then you must be careful to pay attention over time as wear in the clutch reduces free play. If it wears to the point where there is NO free play, the throwout bearing will be touching the pressure plate fingers and rotating with them when the pedal is at rest, greatly accelerating bearing wear.

If you have more than 1", you risk not having enough travel to get a full release of the clutch.

Joe

bogdonj · 05-14-2012, 12:08 PM

when you get it in gear or last year when you said you were driving it did you notice clutch chatter from take off?

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogdonj

when you get it in gear or last year when you said you were driving it did you notice clutch chatter from take off?

Yes I had clutch chatter at takeoff.

Patrick L. · 05-14-2012, 12:18 PM

Your first post stated that when you fully pushed the clutch pedal that the release bearing didn't come close to touching the pressure plate fingers.. Was that correct ?? If so, thats your problem.. The release bearing has to contact the fingers and push those fingers in enough to allow the disk to release from the flywheel and pressure plate face..

Bob C · 05-14-2012, 12:19 PM

The free play is how far the pedal move before the clutch DISENGAGES not engages.

Bob

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkeesey

Remove your inspection cover and look inside. With the no pressure on the clutch pedal the throwout bearing should not be contacting the pressure plate. It should have at least a quarter of an inch to be safe . The 1-2" that everyone is refering to is at the foot pedal end I hope. Putting the car on jacks like you described works great I just did it to a car this morning.

I'll have to measure the the space between the throwout bearing and the plate but I recall there being a pretty good gap between the two with no pressure on the pedal. I'll verify tonight.

Also I noticed on the pressure plate that one of the fingers looked like it was pulled out more towards the rear end in comparison to the other fingers. Something to be concerned about?

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Your first post stated that when you fully pushed the clutch pedal that the release bearing didn't come close to touching the pressure plate fingers.. Was that correct ?? If so, thats your problem.. The release bearing has to contact the fingers and push those fingers in enough to allow the disk to release from the flywheel and pressure plate face..

Correct. The throwout bearing didn't make any contact with the pressure plate fingers. Bigger problem or is there an adjustment for that?

1931 flamingo · 05-14-2012, 12:59 PM

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I would go back and adjust your free play (This is the amount of travel the clutch pedal makes BEFORE the arm on the side of the transmission starts to move the t/out bearing towards the pressure plate fingers) as it sounds like your definition of it and what is correct are not the same. JMO
Paul in CT

JoeWay · 05-14-2012, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

I would go back and adjust your free play (This is the amount of travel the clutch pedal makes BEFORE the arm on the side of the transmission starts to move the t/out bearing towards the pressure plate fingers) as it sounds like your definition of it and what is correct are not the same. JMO
Paul in CT

Hmmm...I would define it as "This is the amount of travel the clutch pedal makes before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers."

Free play includes the pedal travel required to move the bearing against the fingers.

Joe

Tom Wesenberg · 05-14-2012, 01:39 PM

Actually FREEPLAY is the distance the clutch pedal moves before the T/O bearing contacts the 6 fingers, as Joe said, and that's where you want to start. As mentioned, it's best felt with your hand and is easy to adjust at the trunion nut and link. Get that to about 3/4" then see if the clutch releaes OK. While you are under the car adjusting the link, be sure to check the release arm on the end of the shaft for cracks. You might need someone to push the clutch in while you look at the arm movement.

Yes, if one of the 6 fingers is sticking out more than the others, that is something to be concerned about. It might be an adjustment issure, or a piece of clutch lining might be torn off and caught under the disc, making it thicker in one spot.

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Actually FREEPLAY is the distance the clutch pedal moves before the T/O bearing contacts the 6 fingers, as Joe said, and that's where you want to start. As mentioned, it's best felt with your hand and is easy to adjust at the trunion nut and link. Get that to about 3/4" then see if the clutch releaes OK. While you are under the car adjusting the link, be sure to check the release arm on the end of the shaft for cracks. You might need someone to push the clutch in while you look at the arm movement.

Yes, if one of the 6 fingers is sticking out more than the others, that is something to be concerned about. It might be an adjustment issure, or a piece of clutch lining might be torn off and caught under the disc, making it thicker in one spot.

Would clutch chatter be caused from one of the fingers not being adjusted properly? I had chatter last fall when I would put it into gear and release the clutch.

Patrick L. · 05-14-2012, 04:44 PM

I had to cut my answer a bit short,, now I'm back.. As mentioned, free play is the amount that you can push the clutch pedal with your fingers to move the release bearing into contact with the pressure plate fingers.. 3/4" to 1 1/2" should work fine.. Also as mentioned every once in awhile a clutch arm has been known to crack which can be seen if someone operates the pedal for you.. Also another possibility could be that the fingers have been forced over center and are stuck in while the disk is also frozen, but, thats pretty far fetched..

'31 Patina · 05-14-2012, 08:38 PM

Update....

So I put the rear up on jack stands, started the car in first gear and pushed the clutch in, gave it gas, let the clutch out (i did this a few times). I didn't hear or feel anything let loose but it must have because while the rear was up on jack stands I could shift into all the gears just fine.

Now here's where it gets interesting. I removed the stands from the rear end and started the car. I go to put it in gear and it grinds. If I push the clutch in and wait about 5 seconds I can then put it into gear. I can't just push the clutch in and put it into gear without waiting. So why was I able to go through all the gears with the rear end on blocks? Makes no sense.

The clutch link is turned in almost all the way so there's no more thread left to turn in. I removed the inspection plate and pushed the clutch pedal with my hand while watching the T/O bearing. I have at least 2" of free play before the T/O bearing touches the fingers. Again the clutch link is almost turned in all the way. If I turn it back out then I would have more free play.

Any suggestions or can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong?

I appreciate everyone's help! I'm always learning something new on the Ford Barn.

jkeesey · 05-14-2012, 08:59 PM

If everything your saying is true it sounds like your clutch is shot. if your completely out of adjustment on your clutch trunion there's really nothing else you can adjust. And the jack stand test is with the car raised up you start it in 3rd gear push in the clutch and tap your brakes.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-15-2012, 06:28 AM

The 6 fingers might be way out of adjustment. They should be about 5/8" to 3/4" down from the clutch cover (pressure plate) when bolted to the flywheel with a good disc installed. As the disc wears the freeplay becomes less.

'31 Patina · 05-15-2012, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The 6 fingers might be way out of adjustment. They should be about 5/8" to 3/4" down from the clutch cover (pressure plate) when bolted to the flywheel with a good disc installed. As the disc wears the freeplay becomes less.

Thanks Tom.

Is there a way to adjust the fingers or is it basically just time for a new clutch?

gweilbaker · 05-15-2012, 07:22 AM

Everything you need to know at this link http://www.ahooga.com/notebook/howto/1/howto1.shtml

midgetracer · 05-15-2012, 07:40 AM

Either I'm missing something or there is a communication problem here. You need to lengthen the clutch pedal adjusting shaft and trunion to get less free play, not shorten it. This may be your biggest problem. The reason it grinds until you wait a bit is the transmission is still spinning after the clutch is disengageed. This could be not fully disengaging the clutch(too much free play) or too thin of transmission grease.

Patrick L. · 05-15-2012, 05:17 PM

I'm not sure I really see a problem now.. Having to wait a couple seconds before tugging on the shift lever I think is kinda normal.. Remember, these transmitters are not circumcised [ as Norm Crosby would say].. Does it make any difference to try and stick into 2nd or 3rd before going to 1st ?? 2" of freeplay is getting on the outer limits but still should be OK,, I prefer more than not enough..

05-14-2012, 08:58 AM	#1
'31 Patina Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Rosemount, MN Posts: 228	Bad Clutch? I have a '31 coupe with the stock transmission and clutch. I can no longer get the car into any gear and I'm thinking I need to drop the transmission so I can get to the clutch and see what's going on. Yesterday I removed the inspection plate that sits on top of the bell housing and with the car running I could see the pressure plate spinning. When I pushed the clutch pedal in the pressure plate keeps spinning so the clutch won't engage and let me shift into any gear. Do I need to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate? There are six nuts on the pressure plate that look like they could be adjusted? When I push the clutch in the throw out bearing moves freely but it doesn't even come close to contacting the fingers on the pressure plate. I do have a Les Andrews book and before I decide to remove the transmission from the car to inspect the clutch, is there anything else I should be checking or is there a way to adjust the fingers? Thanks!

05-14-2012, 09:04 AM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Bad Clutch? You shouldn't have to touch the 6 fingers adjustment. You might need to adjust the clutch link at the bottom of the pedal. How much freeplay does the pedal have?

05-14-2012, 09:18 AM	#3
Cider Mill Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Shelton, CT Posts: 339	Re: Bad Clutch? I had the same problem - stuck clutch. My cure was to open the inspection plate and spray Kroil on the shaft that the throw out bearing rides on for several days in a row. Then with car in gear, but not running rock car back & forth until it releases. Do a seach on this forum for "stuck clutch" - there is lots of advice available.

05-14-2012, 09:20 AM	#4
bogdonj Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walkerton, Ont. Canada Posts: 623	Re: Bad Clutch? check to see if you have 1 inch of free play before contacting the fingers like Tom W said! Has the car been sitting for awhile or did this just appear out of no were? __________________ _________________________________________ 1931 Ford Model A Tudor 1930 Ford Model A Deluxe Roadster 1930 Ford Original Rolling Chassis- Restoring

05-14-2012, 09:57 AM	#7
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,747	Re: Bad Clutch? The Service Bulletins recommend 3/4" of free play 2" is way to much. Bob

05-14-2012, 10:08 AM	#9
Rusty Homestead Fl Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Homestead, Fl Posts: 351	Re: Bad Clutch? Sometimes when a car sits for a while the clutch disc will stick to the flywheel. With key off or coil wire pulled you can try rocking the car in gear, with clutch pushed in, or pulling it with another car in gear. Put the shifter in gear (2nd or 3rd) with motor off and key in off position and clutch depressed. Pull with another car, slowly, until the dicsc breaks loose from the flywheel. You'll feel it when it does. Have some form of communication with the pulling vehicle so you can stop together. Last edited by Rusty Homestead Fl; 05-14-2012 at 10:53 AM.

05-14-2012, 10:12 AM	#10
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Bad Clutch? It sounds like Cider Mill's solution might be the answer. When installing a tranny or clutch, it's important to make sure the disc slides easily on the splines, and I always put a light coat of grease on the splines to keep them from rusting. Try the Kroil. Years ago I got the stuck clutch on a 1952 Desoto unstuck by putting it in gear, then starting the engine with the front bumper against a tree. It was fluid drive, so I could start the engine and push in the clutch, then give it some gas. That broke the disc to flywheel bond, and the cluch worked fine after that. You could start the car in first gear, then push the clutch in and give it gas and let off several times. If the disc is stuck to the flywheel, this might break the bond.

05-14-2012, 10:17 AM	#11
midgetracer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bismarck ND Posts: 1,189	Re: Bad Clutch? The pressure plate will always spin with the engine. It is bolted to the flywheel. The clutch disk is what has to stop to allow shifting. I think you have way to much free play. adjust the trunion on the clutch pedal until you have only a small amount of free play. Look inside the inspection cover and make sure the throw out bearing is not spinning with the clutch released and that it touches the clutch fingers with a small depression of the pedal. It should shift fine then. Also 600wt oil is necessary in the transmission to stop the gears. 90wt will cause the transmission gears to grind since there is a tendency for the gears to keep spinning.

05-14-2012, 10:22 AM	#12
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Bad Clutch? Ck the arm on the side of the trans, could it be cracked and not giving full motion to te t/out brg?? Paul in CT

05-14-2012, 11:38 AM	#17
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Bad Clutch? Remove your inspection cover and look inside. With the no pressure on the clutch pedal the throwout bearing should not be contacting the pressure plate. It should have at least a quarter of an inch to be safe . The 1-2" that everyone is refering to is at the foot pedal end I hope. Putting the car on jacks like you described works great I just did it to a car this morning.

05-14-2012, 11:41 AM	#18
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Bad Clutch? Being that the car was doing this before you put it away I would check to make sure your full of 600wt oil or your clutch could be getting worn. Generally a clutch doesn't stick on a car that is being driven they stick when sitting for long periods of time.

05-14-2012, 12:08 PM	#20
bogdonj Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walkerton, Ont. Canada Posts: 623	Re: Bad Clutch? when you get it in gear or last year when you said you were driving it did you notice clutch chatter from take off? __________________ _________________________________________ 1931 Ford Model A Tudor 1930 Ford Model A Deluxe Roadster 1930 Ford Original Rolling Chassis- Restoring

05-14-2012, 12:18 PM	#22
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Bad Clutch? Your first post stated that when you fully pushed the clutch pedal that the release bearing didn't come close to touching the pressure plate fingers.. Was that correct ?? If so, thats your problem.. The release bearing has to contact the fingers and push those fingers in enough to allow the disk to release from the flywheel and pressure plate face..

05-14-2012, 12:19 PM	#23
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,747	Re: Bad Clutch? The free play is how far the pedal move before the clutch DISENGAGES not engages. Bob

05-14-2012, 12:59 PM	#26
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Bad Clutch? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I would go back and adjust your free play (This is the amount of travel the clutch pedal makes BEFORE the arm on the side of the transmission starts to move the t/out bearing towards the pressure plate fingers) as it sounds like your definition of it and what is correct are not the same. JMO Paul in CT

05-14-2012, 01:39 PM	#28
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Bad Clutch? Actually FREEPLAY is the distance the clutch pedal moves before the T/O bearing contacts the 6 fingers, as Joe said, and that's where you want to start. As mentioned, it's best felt with your hand and is easy to adjust at the trunion nut and link. Get that to about 3/4" then see if the clutch releaes OK. While you are under the car adjusting the link, be sure to check the release arm on the end of the shaft for cracks. You might need someone to push the clutch in while you look at the arm movement. Yes, if one of the 6 fingers is sticking out more than the others, that is something to be concerned about. It might be an adjustment issure, or a piece of clutch lining might be torn off and caught under the disc, making it thicker in one spot.

05-14-2012, 04:44 PM	#30
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Bad Clutch? I had to cut my answer a bit short,, now I'm back.. As mentioned, free play is the amount that you can push the clutch pedal with your fingers to move the release bearing into contact with the pressure plate fingers.. 3/4" to 1 1/2" should work fine.. Also as mentioned every once in awhile a clutch arm has been known to crack which can be seen if someone operates the pedal for you.. Also another possibility could be that the fingers have been forced over center and are stuck in while the disk is also frozen, but, thats pretty far fetched..

05-14-2012, 08:38 PM	#31
'31 Patina Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Rosemount, MN Posts: 228	Re: Bad Clutch? Update.... So I put the rear up on jack stands, started the car in first gear and pushed the clutch in, gave it gas, let the clutch out (i did this a few times). I didn't hear or feel anything let loose but it must have because while the rear was up on jack stands I could shift into all the gears just fine. Now here's where it gets interesting. I removed the stands from the rear end and started the car. I go to put it in gear and it grinds. If I push the clutch in and wait about 5 seconds I can then put it into gear. I can't just push the clutch in and put it into gear without waiting. So why was I able to go through all the gears with the rear end on blocks? Makes no sense. The clutch link is turned in almost all the way so there's no more thread left to turn in. I removed the inspection plate and pushed the clutch pedal with my hand while watching the T/O bearing. I have at least 2" of free play before the T/O bearing touches the fingers. Again the clutch link is almost turned in all the way. If I turn it back out then I would have more free play. Any suggestions or can someone tell me what I might be doing wrong? I appreciate everyone's help! I'm always learning something new on the Ford Barn.

05-14-2012, 08:59 PM	#32
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Bad Clutch? If everything your saying is true it sounds like your clutch is shot. if your completely out of adjustment on your clutch trunion there's really nothing else you can adjust. And the jack stand test is with the car raised up you start it in 3rd gear push in the clutch and tap your brakes.

05-15-2012, 06:28 AM	#33
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Bad Clutch? The 6 fingers might be way out of adjustment. They should be about 5/8" to 3/4" down from the clutch cover (pressure plate) when bolted to the flywheel with a good disc installed. As the disc wears the freeplay becomes less.

05-15-2012, 07:22 AM	#35
gweilbaker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lindenhurst, IL Posts: 792	Re: Bad Clutch? Everything you need to know at this link http://www.ahooga.com/notebook/howto/1/howto1.shtml

05-15-2012, 07:40 AM	#36
midgetracer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bismarck ND Posts: 1,189	Re: Bad Clutch? Either I'm missing something or there is a communication problem here. You need to lengthen the clutch pedal adjusting shaft and trunion to get less free play, not shorten it. This may be your biggest problem. The reason it grinds until you wait a bit is the transmission is still spinning after the clutch is disengageed. This could be not fully disengaging the clutch(too much free play) or too thin of transmission grease.

05-15-2012, 05:17 PM	#37
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Bad Clutch? I'm not sure I really see a problem now.. Having to wait a couple seconds before tugging on the shift lever I think is kinda normal.. Remember, these transmitters are not circumcised [ as Norm Crosby would say].. Does it make any difference to try and stick into 2nd or 3rd before going to 1st ?? 2" of freeplay is getting on the outer limits but still should be OK,, I prefer more than not enough..