The Ford Barn

'31 Patina · 10-20-2011, 01:01 PM

I'm fairly new to my '31 coupe so I'll try my hardest to explain my question so people can understand what I'm asking.

When I start up the car and try to put it into 1st gear it grinds. When I come to a stop sign, and the car is at a complete stop, I try to put it into 1st gear and it grinds like crazy.

I went to adjust the trunnion nut arm on the bottom of the clutch pedal but now I cant get the clutch arm to line up with the arm that comes out of the transmission so I can put the clevis pin back in.

There is a little bit of play in the arm that comes out of the transmission, meaning I can turn the arm back and forth a little bit. Do I need to put a lot of pressure on this arm to get it so the clevis pin hole will line up with the clevis holes in the clutch arm pedal?

I apologize if this doesn't make sense...it's hard to explain it on a forum.

Thanks.

Sparky · 10-20-2011, 01:18 PM

Yes, you may need to put a bit of pressure on the arm to line up the holes. When I adjusted mine I used a small hydraulic jack under the arm.

700rpm · 10-20-2011, 01:46 PM

Since you say you're fairly new to this game, I suggest you get a copy of the Ford Service Bulletins and Les Andrews Mechanic's Handbook Vol. 1. These two books alone will answer many of your questions, now and in the future.

'31 Patina · 10-20-2011, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky

Yes, you may need to put a bit of pressure on the arm to line up the holes. When I adjusted mine I used a small hydraulic jack under the arm.

Thanks I will give the hydraulic jack a try.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timothy Kelly

If one lets off the clutch and allows the transmission to spin in neutral while the engine is running, it's fairly common to have the gears grind when going from neutral to first. And, it does not necessarily mean that the clutch needs to be adjusted.

Three options:

1) Keep the clutch pedal depressed and don't allow the transmission to spin in neutral. This is not so practical at long traffic lights. Plus it puts wear on the throw out bearing and the face of the rear main.

2) After allowing the transmission to spin in neutral, shift into third and then without releasing the clutch shift to first. This helps significantly.

3) Replace the oil in the transmission with heavier oil. For example, 600W, NOT 600 weight (600W is a part number and represents oil that is about 250 weight). This heavier oil will help the transmission stop spinning once the clutch is depressed. It wil also change how the car shifts in all gears, and is more temperature sensitive.

Personally, I tend to go with the heavier oil. And for my cars that have lighter oil in the transmission, I go with option two. I almost never utilize option one.

Good luck.

Thanks for the info. I did replace the transmission oil with 600W. I will try option 2 and see how that works.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Since you say you're fairly new to this game, I suggest you get a copy of the Ford Service Bulletins and Les Andrews Mechanic's Handbook Vol. 1. These two books alone will answer many of your questions, now and in the future.

The Les Andrews book Vol. 1 was one of the first things I bought and has been very helpful. I didn't find much on the clutch arm adjustment though.

Patrick L. · 10-20-2011, 04:26 PM

Yep to what Tim said.. Additionally, you want 1" to 1.5" of free-play[travel] in the clutch pedal.. You don't want to adjust the pedal so the release bearing is always contacting the fingers..

dynaflash_8 · 10-21-2011, 06:03 AM

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my 30 coupe did the same thing. Still working on it though since something broke.

'31 Patina · 10-24-2011, 06:42 AM

I adjusted my clutch pedal arm and the clutch no longer grinds when I shift into each gear while the car is parked and running. I still can't figure out why I can't get it into gear after I come to a complete stop at a stop sign.

When I get to a stop sign and I'm at a complete stop it takes anywhere from 15-30 seconds to get the car into first gear. I have the clutch all the way in and it grinds like crazy trying to get it into 1st gear or any gear for that matter. Once I get going it seems fine until I get to a stop sign or stop light.

Any suggestions? I'm guessing I'll need to pull the transmission and see what's going on.

TomW · 10-24-2011, 07:36 AM

Also remember to push the throttle lever back up after starting - a nice low idle speed will make shifting easier.

1931 flamingo · 10-24-2011, 07:44 AM

You haven't said what you're running for tranny fluid OR if you've changed it to proper weight (viscosity).
Paul in CT

'31 Patina · 10-24-2011, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomW

Also remember to push the throttle lever back up after starting - a nice low idle speed will make shifting easier.

Maybe that's part of my problem...when I start the car I put the throttle lever half way down but I keep it there when driving instead of putting it in the up position. Should I put it all the way up when driving?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

You haven't said what you're running for tranny fluid OR if you've changed it to proper weight (viscosity).
Paul in CT

I've changed the tranny fluid and I'm running 600W. I put my pinkie finger in the fill hole and the fluid level is at the tip of my finger. If I put any more in the fluid just ends up spilling out when I go to thread the cap back on.

1931 flamingo · 10-24-2011, 08:16 AM

IF you've got the throttle lever half way down that's part of your problem, the tranny is NON-synchro. The engine speed at a stop HAS to come down so everything slows down and gears can be engaged w/out grinding after depressing clutch pedal. JMO Maybe someone else will explain it clearer.
Paul in CT

'31 Patina · 10-24-2011, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

IF you've got the throttle lever half way down that's part of your problem, the tranny is NON-synchro. The engine speed at a stop HAS to come down so everything slows down and gears can be engaged w/out grinding after depressing clutch pedal. JMO Maybe someone else will explain it clearer.
Paul in CT

That makes sense. I'll try that and see if it helps. Thanks for your help.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-24-2011, 11:15 AM

The throttle half way down is not only part of the shift problem (maybe all of it), but it's a dangerous way to drive. The throttle isn't really a cruise control and won't kick out when the brakes are hit. If you are out on a country road that's pretty flat and not much traffic, then you could use it for cruise, but I would leave the throttle lever full up once the engine starts and is warm enough to idle OK.

Patrick L. · 10-24-2011, 12:34 PM

Are you putting the shift lever into neutral when stopped at a light and then trying to put the shift lever into gear once the light has changed ?? If so, thats a problem..
The throttle lever is the right side lever and if its left at about 1/2 travel [ 3:00] then the engine would be running at too high of an idle speed.. If so, thats also a problem..
Or, If what you're saying is that the shift lever just won't go from 2nd or 3rd directly into 1st and wants to hang up in neutral then the problem could be a badly worn shift lever ball..

Brentwood Bob · 10-24-2011, 01:00 PM

pull the tower off, and look at the ball on the bottom of the shift lever. should be 1/2 inch round. Bob

James Rogers · 10-24-2011, 03:39 PM

One, the best way I have ever found to put that clevis pin back in is to use a pipe wrench on the front of the lever and rotate it till the holes line up. Second, you must adjust the free play to 1" at the pedal. More and it will grind less and it will slip. Mind you this 1" is subjective and a little latitude is necessary. If none of these adjustments work you may need a clutch, I hope this is not necessary but it could be.

10-20-2011, 01:01 PM	#1
'31 Patina Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Rosemount, MN Posts: 228	Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment I'm fairly new to my '31 coupe so I'll try my hardest to explain my question so people can understand what I'm asking. When I start up the car and try to put it into 1st gear it grinds. When I come to a stop sign, and the car is at a complete stop, I try to put it into 1st gear and it grinds like crazy. I went to adjust the trunnion nut arm on the bottom of the clutch pedal but now I cant get the clutch arm to line up with the arm that comes out of the transmission so I can put the clevis pin back in. There is a little bit of play in the arm that comes out of the transmission, meaning I can turn the arm back and forth a little bit. Do I need to put a lot of pressure on this arm to get it so the clevis pin hole will line up with the clevis holes in the clutch arm pedal? I apologize if this doesn't make sense...it's hard to explain it on a forum. Thanks.

10-20-2011, 01:18 PM	#2
Sparky Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 649	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment Yes, you may need to put a bit of pressure on the arm to line up the holes. When I adjusted mine I used a small hydraulic jack under the arm.

10-20-2011, 01:46 PM	#3
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,906	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment Since you say you're fairly new to this game, I suggest you get a copy of the Ford Service Bulletins and Les Andrews Mechanic's Handbook Vol. 1. These two books alone will answer many of your questions, now and in the future.

10-20-2011, 04:26 PM	#5
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment Yep to what Tim said.. Additionally, you want 1" to 1.5" of free-play[travel] in the clutch pedal.. You don't want to adjust the pedal so the release bearing is always contacting the fingers..

10-21-2011, 06:03 AM	#6
dynaflash_8 Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Auburn WA Posts: 73	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) my 30 coupe did the same thing. Still working on it though since something broke.

10-24-2011, 06:42 AM	#7
'31 Patina Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Rosemount, MN Posts: 228	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment I adjusted my clutch pedal arm and the clutch no longer grinds when I shift into each gear while the car is parked and running. I still can't figure out why I can't get it into gear after I come to a complete stop at a stop sign. When I get to a stop sign and I'm at a complete stop it takes anywhere from 15-30 seconds to get the car into first gear. I have the clutch all the way in and it grinds like crazy trying to get it into 1st gear or any gear for that matter. Once I get going it seems fine until I get to a stop sign or stop light. Any suggestions? I'm guessing I'll need to pull the transmission and see what's going on.

10-24-2011, 07:36 AM	#8
TomW Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: SW Florida Posts: 135	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment Also remember to push the throttle lever back up after starting - a nice low idle speed will make shifting easier.

10-24-2011, 07:44 AM	#9
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment You haven't said what you're running for tranny fluid OR if you've changed it to proper weight (viscosity). Paul in CT

10-24-2011, 08:16 AM	#11
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment IF you've got the throttle lever half way down that's part of your problem, the tranny is NON-synchro. The engine speed at a stop HAS to come down so everything slows down and gears can be engaged w/out grinding after depressing clutch pedal. JMO Maybe someone else will explain it clearer. Paul in CT

10-24-2011, 11:15 AM	#13
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment The throttle half way down is not only part of the shift problem (maybe all of it), but it's a dangerous way to drive. The throttle isn't really a cruise control and won't kick out when the brakes are hit. If you are out on a country road that's pretty flat and not much traffic, then you could use it for cruise, but I would leave the throttle lever full up once the engine starts and is warm enough to idle OK.

10-24-2011, 12:34 PM	#14
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment Are you putting the shift lever into neutral when stopped at a light and then trying to put the shift lever into gear once the light has changed ?? If so, thats a problem.. The throttle lever is the right side lever and if its left at about 1/2 travel [ 3:00] then the engine would be running at too high of an idle speed.. If so, thats also a problem.. Or, If what you're saying is that the shift lever just won't go from 2nd or 3rd directly into 1st and wants to hang up in neutral then the problem could be a badly worn shift lever ball..

10-24-2011, 01:00 PM	#15
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,244	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment pull the tower off, and look at the ball on the bottom of the shift lever. should be 1/2 inch round. Bob

10-24-2011, 03:39 PM	#16
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Clutch Pedal Arm Adjustment One, the best way I have ever found to put that clevis pin back in is to use a pipe wrench on the front of the lever and rotate it till the holes line up. Second, you must adjust the free play to 1" at the pedal. More and it will grind less and it will slip. Mind you this 1" is subjective and a little latitude is necessary. If none of these adjustments work you may need a clutch, I hope this is not necessary but it could be.