Got the old girl home

[Tom Wesenberg]

I bought a very rusty stuck engine once for $10 figuring I could save at least the rods and crankshaft. The pan was full of sand and rust, and the only thing I could save was a hand full of bolts.

[00fxd]

There was very little sludge in the pan - not really worth taking a pic of :-)

Another question ... In the pan gasket set I received from a local guy, he takes the rope seal out of the set and gives a seal that has been soaking in oil [for several years]. The seal I received is quite "Firm". I have dealt with rope seal for other applications in the past and the rope was very rope-like and formable to the application. This rope is quite solid, even tho it has been soaking. It is preformed in a curve but I can't see how this solid piece of rope will easily form and compress to the surfaces it needs to. He assures me that this is the way they are supposed to be but I would like another opinion prior to assembly. I'm sure that I am overthinking things as I usually do ....
Thanks, Frank

[George Miller]

60 years of working on all kinds of cars with rope seals, I have never soaked one. I also never had a rope seal leak. They were used for rear mains on a lot of cars. But it is your car do what you feel is best.

[Tom Wesenberg]

X2 what George said.
I also never soak them. It makes them an oily mess to install. I push the seal into place, then use a socket the same size as the pulley sleeve, and tap that into the seal to drive it home and shape it. I then squirt oil on the rope and smear it with grease.

[Brentwood Bob]

the rope seal can be put in boiling water just before placing it in the oil pan, then conformed with tom's method using a large socket.

[00fxd]

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Thanks fella's. My question is still he same. Is the replacement seal a flexible piece of rope or a solidly formed, almost not conformable, almost rock like object? I just can't see how it will squeeze in the form it needs to be with the tightening of the pan bolts.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 00fxd

Thanks fella's. My question is still he same. Is the replacement seal a flexible piece of rope or a solidly formed, almost not conformable, almost rock like object? I just can't see how it will squeeze in the form it needs to be with the tightening of the pan bolts.

It's a fight, but most of it will pound into place. They aren't like a soft flexible rope. I do have to trim some off the ends on most I've installed. Just be sure to leave some above the gasket surface so it will compress the ends tight to each other when the pan bolts are tightened.

[00fxd]

Thanks Tom, thats the second opinion I was looking for ... I will move foreword.
Frank

[00fxd]

So I got my Phaeton running the other day. Starting with the crank only - old, bad battery. Got some blisters til I got it's preferred settings figured out. Got it down to 1/4 turn now. Runs great, no smoke.
Question. I rebuilt the generator many years ago with a new cut out. How do I determine if it is operating correctly? I put power directly to the gen and it motors as it should. Should it motor when I put power to it through the cut out? It does.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 00fxd

So I got my Phaeton running the other day. Starting with the crank only - old, bad battery. Got some blisters til I got it's preferred settings figured out. Got it down to 1/4 turn now. Runs great, no smoke.
Question. I rebuilt the generator many years ago with a new cut out. How do I determine if it is operating correctly? I put power directly to the gen and it motors as it should. Should it motor when I put power to it through the cut out? It does.

Yes, it should motor when you put 6 volts to the generator stud. Use a volt meter to measure the stud voltage at fast idle. It should be slightly more than battery voltage with the engine off. Also you can start the engine, turn on the lights at fast idle, leave the lights on and turn off the engine. If the lights dim when the engine dies the generator was working.

[Wagga A'er]

The irons run under the front floor boards.

[Veger]

Very NICE phaeton Love it. I think it looks GREAT just like it is too but that's just me. LOTS of GREAT INFO here and help I've learned a lot just reading post. Good Luck and Keep On Truckin'!

[00fxd]

Thanks Tom, as I said it does motor when I put power directly to the gen [to the stud]. I am wondering if it should motor when I put power [6v] to the cut out? I think not?

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by 00fxd

Thanks Tom, as I said it does motor when I put power directly to the gen [to the stud]. I am wondering if it should motor when I put power [6v] to the cut out? I think not?

No, the cut-out's job is to keep the generator from motoring and draining the battery.

[00fxd]

Thanks 40. There was continuity across the cut out so I removed the cover. It was a brand new unit many years ago with very little hours. There was a little dot of metal completing the circuit welded across the points. That is remedied and I will check the operation next time I have it running...
Thanks again, Frank

[Tom Wesenberg]

I haven't seen a repro cutout that is quality and I could trust.
I always use restored originals.
A quality diode cutout is also a good choice.

[00fxd]

This diode idea I've seen is intriguing. In theory the gen should be able to charge straight through a diode? Eliminating the cut out?
The cut out I have had very low hours. It is a Standard/Bluestreak unit - in the old days a quality aftermarket manufacturer, long before chinese junk.

[katy]

In theory the gen should be able to charge straight through a diode? Eliminating the cut out?

Yes, a diode is basically an electrical one way valve, it only allows current flow in one direction. There are 2 types so you have to be careful hooking one up.
You'll probably find more than you want to know on google.

[Axeman71]

Fantastic Phaeton! Great thread, look forward to the progress...

[00fxd]

So those that are having problems with a points welded cut out could simply leave it as is and install a diode in line and have a more reliable system....