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09-02-2020, 10:37 AM | #81 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: McCalla, Alabama
Posts: 32
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Re: non- detergent oil
I gonna back on out of this subject because opinions are like cell phones--just about everyone has one now, and maybe even that thar harry fellow in the woods with big feet lol. No one wants their opinion messed with even if is only based on science instead of real life experiences and experiences can differ--like I said "it depends on how the sediment has settled"-or something like that. To each his own--peace
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09-02-2020, 06:18 PM | #82 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 293
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Re: non- detergent oil
Regarding oil, this quote from Herm 2/20/2018: Indeed, the use of a straight 30 weight oil recommended by many Model A forums may lead to a lack of lubrication quality. The use of an oil similar to "Henry’s Oil", especially if much care is not taken by the owner, will result in an engine needing rebuilding sooner than an owner using a modern oil. " END QUOTE "
This is an opinion of two Guys, B. S. too Boot. You don't run thin oil in a splash oil system. What I refer to as thin oil is, among many, is say 10W.30. Dump it out of the bottle, and it looks like 30 Wt., then dump it out of a hot motor, and it looks like P!$$ Water. Take some of that and rub between you thumb, and index finger, it doesn't slide very good. Now do that with 30Wt. Detergent, you will find it to be one heck of a difference. 30Wt. Summer. 20Wt. winter. We work with bearings every day, and have, 54 years. A bearing that runs thin oil, runs with larger clearances. The reason being there is more friction on a thinner oil film, and way less cushion. We have never recommended anything else. Yes, just about all oil will work, but compared to what! Herm. Last edited by Kohnke Rebabbitting; 02-20-2018 at 11:03 PM. Kohnke Rebabbitting is offline Report Post Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message |
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09-02-2020, 07:27 PM | #83 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
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Re: non- detergent oil
I did not know that the model A ran a forged cam. Interesting and thanks for that. I'm not so sure I would credit the model A's lack of need for added zinc to that though since the hard surface on a cast cam should be at least as durable as the surface of a forged cam (speculation on my part). It's my opinion (subject to change without notice pending compelling arguments to the contrary) that the reason that added zinc is not necessary is due to the incredibly low valve spring pressures in the model A. Since I am unfamiliar with forged cams, I will assume that they are relatively hard all the way through so to turn a lobe completely down would be near impossible while a cast cam, once you wear through the hard surface is soft and will wear the entire lobe off in short order, That advantage only presents itself AFTER the first few thou of wear which, with proper lubrication should not happen anyway.
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