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Old 01-01-2017, 04:33 PM   #1
Beauford
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Default Need help as usual...

So wired up and timed engine. Made a wooden temporary dash to mount everything since body is off. Made a test gas tank for fuel delivery. 1st I did a compression test. (remember this is first time this motor has turned in 60+ years) I get 50 psi on each cylinder. I assume that's passable? Since I don't have a radiator on yet I noticed a little oil in the water inlet tube which concerns me. So I am ready to get a bunch of smack but I know you can run the engine for a very short time without the radiator attached. I turn on gas and brand new Tillotson X carb starts dripping. I bumped it to see if float stuck but nothing. Still leaks. So I push up spark leaver, choke out, CW all the way with a 1/4 turn back. I hit the starter and she backfires but never starts. You guys have gotten me this far. Hopefully nothing major. New copper head gasket stepped 35, 45, 55 torque.

On a side note I looked through some more boxes the old guy I got the car from and there is a pair of fog lamps I will never use and they are original if someone wants to buy them.
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:54 PM   #2
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

Sixty(60) years idle with no engine rotation is a good recipe for valves sticking in the open position when the starter rotates the engine.
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:57 PM   #3
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

Tighten the 1/2 inch bolt/plug on the bottom of the carb. Hope you find it loose. Don't Tighten too much.
Now is the time to understand the ignition system. Get the book out and study the circuit. When you get it right, it will start. We all can help.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forever4 View Post
"So I am ready to get a bunch of smack but I know you can run the engine for a very short time without the radiator attached. "

That about sums it up.
The cause of short engine lives, running without water.

I would never consider it, no matter how short the time.
Even an unloaded hit and miss engine gets darned hot darned fast without water in the hopper.
Radiator coming this week....LOL
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:04 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jacksonlll View Post
Tighten the 1/2 inch bolt/plug on the bottom of the carb. Hope you find it loose. Don't Tighten too much.
Now is the time to understand the ignition system. Get the book out and study the circuit. When you get it right, it will start. We all can help.
Thank you sir! I will tighten that nut if need be and recheck the timing. I appreciate your feedback!
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin View Post
Sixty(60) years idle with no engine rotation is a good recipe for valves sticking in the open position when the starter rotates the engine.
H.L ...I had everything greased and slicked up moving fine before hand. I'm just saying it has never run in that time. She turns over smoothly.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:56 PM   #7
H. L. Chauvin
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As parochial as this may appear, this is just a simple, 100% timing verification check for possibly new, and/or possibly doubtful Model A owners who assumed that they have just timed their Model A's correctly according to the many different written, Model A timing directions and techniques.

1. Remove all (4) plugs & lay all (4) plugs on sides, (grounded), while all (4) plugs are still electrically connected to the distributor.

2. Turn ignition switch "ON".

3. Retard spark lever on left of steering wheel all the way upwards.

4. Remove timing pin, reverse timing pin, and insert non-threaded part of timing pin in threaded timing pin hole where the timing pin was initially removed.

5. Apply slight pressure on timing pin, slowly hand crank engine until timing pin slips "IN", and,

6. If timed correctly, at the instant the timing pin slips "In", one should see a spark jump across the gap of the number one (1) spark plug nearest the radiator.

7. If so desired, for a further ignition check, continue turning crank to verify that all (4) plugs are firing order of 1, 2, 4, 3.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:10 PM   #8
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

Quote:
Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin View Post
As parochial as this may appear, this is just a simple, 100% timing verification check for possibly new, and/or possibly doubtful Model A owners who assumed that they have just timed their Model A's correctly according to the many different written, Model A timing directions and techniques.


1. Remove all (4) plugs & lay all (4) plugs on sides, (grounded), while all (4) plugs are still electrically connected to the distributor.

2. Turn ignition switch "ON".

3. Retard spark lever on left of steering wheel all the way upwards.

4. Remove timing pin, reverse timing pin, and insert non-threaded part of timing pin in threaded timing pin hole where the timing pin was initially removed.

5. Apply slight pressure on timing pin, slowly hand crank engine until timing pin slips "IN", and,

6. If timed correctly, at the instant the timing pin slips "In", one should see a spark jump across the gap of the number one (1) spark plug nearest the radiator.

7. If so desired, for a further ignition check, continue turning crank to verify that all (4) plugs are firing order of 1, 2, 4, 3.

Hope this helps.
Now thats a new one that even I can handle! Thank you H.L !
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:31 PM   #9
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

When the timing pin drops into the cam gear dimple, then the rotor tip should be in this exact location, pointed toward the right headlamp. Points gap at .020", and the ignition is done.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:35 PM   #10
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Thanks, Tom! You already helped me! By doing a search I was able to find this from one of your older posts (replies).
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:47 PM   #11
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

What are those two screws on the rotor, Tom?
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 700rpm View Post
What are those two screws on the rotor, Tom?
He balances his rotors... its good for 10,000 rpm
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:24 PM   #13
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

Since Tom is the master of gadgets and such, he is prolly the guy who invented the spin balance machine for tires in the first place when he worked at the dealership. He did mention that they only had the bubble balancer at the GM shop he was at.....at lunch one day he must have snuck off and hooked an old front hub to a washing machine motor and the spin up machine was born!!!
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 700rpm View Post
What are those two screws on the rotor, Tom?
As Mitch said, I balance my rotors, as it takes the radial load off the distributor bushing to a large extent. If you take an old distributor shaft, cam, and rotor and chuck it into a 1000 RPM drill, then spin it you will see how much it shakes. That's the same radial load the bushings feel at 2000 engine RPM.

It's the same reason I like to see counterweights on Model A crankshafts.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:53 PM   #15
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
As Mitch said, I balance my rotors, as it takes the radial load off the distributor bushing to a large extent. If you take an old distributor shaft, cam, and rotor and chuck it into a 1000 RPM drill, then spin it you will see how much it shakes. That's the same radial load the bushings feel at 2000 engine RPM.

It's the same reason I like to see counterweights on Model A crankshafts.
Hmm I might have to try this Tom.
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Old 01-02-2017, 11:45 AM   #16
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Default Re: Need help as usual...

Quote:
So I am ready to get a bunch of smack but I know you can run the engine for a very short time without the radiator attached.
Make a block off plate and gasket for the water inlet, fill the block w/water and you're good to go for a short while.
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