new model A owner, modification questions

[Model A Man]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

SO! If each of you could design a FREE car, to be made JUST for you, how would it be equipped? Bill W.

Like the Homer mobile

[Charlie Stephens]

Kevin in post #3 covered it pretty well. I would like to suggest that a second tail light, seat belts and turn signals are good investments to consider if you plan to drive very much. I hate to say that I don't agree with Kevin on hydraulic brakes when he says "juice brakes are just unsafe". The same person that messes up hydraulic brakes can mess up mechanical brakes. The problem with hydraulic brake conversions is that the task is beyond the abilities of many people and the result is indeed dangerous. Having said that I have one car with mechanical and one car with juice brakes.

Charlie Stephens

[Kurt in NJ]

I have never had a total loss of brakes while driving a. Mechanical brake car, I have had total brake failure in hydraulic brake cars,I have also driven late 20s, early 30s HUD brake cars and wouldn't want one following me while driving my A with mech brakes.

[Kevin in NJ]

Steve let me explain.

The problem with juice brakes are they do not like to sit. It is worse with the older style systems and dependent on climate. The reason it is worse on the older cars is the lack of any check valve. The check valve holds a bit a pressure on the system keeping the fluid going in one direction.

Once the pressure is equalized, then you can get a daily pressure change. As the temps vary through the day you get the liquid pressurizing and then a slight vacuum. This allows the brake fluid to meet water at the wheel cylinders. Of course you also get condensation on the metal in some areas. This allows for the wheel cylinders to get royally mucked up. That wheel stops having a braking action. Now we have a safety issue.

I live in southern NJ near the shore. I can 40+ degree differences at some times of the years along with condensing moisture. We had a 39 Ford that we just did not drive enough and every 2 years we were pulling a rear drum off to clear up a wheel cylinder.

Here is the real kicker. A good number of people do not bother keeping their cars in good working order. The brakes kind of stop the car so they do not bother doing anything about it. I started asking questions at a car show one year (Smithville for those that are local). This was after I had the rear wheels muck up on my 65 Mustang. Half the cars there had some issue that indicated lack of braking. Several guys KNEW their cars did not have rear brakes and never bothered to fix it.

So are brakes that can just fail from sitting safer then brakes that just keep working?

The added detail that is sometimes lost with Model A brakes is the fact that properly done mechanical brakes have the same stopping power as juice with the original type tires.

I had a discussion with one of the Miller's (they own Carlisle and lived near me) about this problem. He said he never had a problem with his collection of Vettes. Of course, he has a climate controlled garage. I would also believe that there are some areas of the country where the brakes are much less likely to have problems. Like the guys that live in the perfect weather of CA.

Hope that makes sense.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Some early Ford hydraulics, whether original or converted, leave a lot to be desired. This can be overcome by adding a hidden Bendix Hydro-Vac booster! It's an EASY job. Some early AMC cars used them. Bill W.

[ronn]

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Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON
SO! If each of you could design a FREE car, to be made JUST for you, how would it be equipped? Bill W.

cause Im into good looks....
a 1937 Cord 812 westie!

[Rock Hornbuckle]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

SO! If each of you could design a FREE car, to be made JUST for you, how would it be equipped? Bill W.

As solid as the USS New Jersey, as fast as an FA-18 Hornet, and as invisible as a stealth fighter, with the tenacity of a Marine Corps Drill Instuctor. And try to make it look like a Model A.

[Brother Hesekiel]

Let me suggest this as an interesting reading exercise for someone interested in upgrades of their Model A:

http://www.lainefamily.com/ModelA.htm

[Terry,NJ]

A Saab 9000! With turbocharger and a 5 speed. Tough, reliable, fast, and classy! I like Swedish engineering. I've forded streams, run over plowed fields, and didn't break anything! Love that car!
Terry

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

SO! If each of you could design a FREE car, to be made JUST for you, how would it be equipped? Bill W.

[aojo]

brother Hesekiel... thanks for posting the Laine site... I am just returning to the Model A after 50+ years... had a 30 coupe in high school and immediately installed a flathead with a 39 tranny which was the thing to do then. While looking for a 30/31 pickup I came across a 30 roadster in very decent condition and I am currently enjoying the discussions re alternators, carb upgrade, brakes, etc..

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by garyaodell

You mention oil leaks; before you do anything, allow the oil level to drop to half way between the full and low marks on the dip stick, also make sure the breather cap is not sealing the crankcase. I had a bad leak when I first got my coupe, it turned out to be the bell housing casket was on reversed allowing the cam shaft bearing to be open to atmosphere. these engines do not have rear seals so they do drip a little.

Ok guys, had some time today to get the A out and tool around a little.its been parked at my in laws since I got it. Here's what I found. The clutch shaking wasn't really a big deal. However the oil leak is awful. But seems like the p.o. Was trying to keep the oil level on full. The oil breather was clear, no pressure. I'm hoping when it gets down some it'll lessen...the wife was pissed about the driveway when I got home lol. But did have a bit of a surprise. There were no problems with running, but I was taking a close look at everything once getting back I noticed I had water coming from a crack in the block. I guess I'm going to have to get out the JB weld...the pictures are within 10 minutes of parking.
Got a little work to do to figure out the oil leak but in the meantime, is there a way to search for members by location on here? I'm really wanting to find other A owners and possibly someone who can do babbit or rebuilds in my area. Birmingham, al

[bdave_mcc]

Oil puddle and trail, was a little late finding and getting the pan under there.

[darrylkmc]

bdave_mcc,

That appears to be a vertical crack that extends well below the area that you circled.

Did this just appear? Or has this been there for some time?

Darryl in Fairbanks

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by darrylkmc

bdave_mcc,

That appears to be a vertical crack that extends well below the area that you circled.

Did this just appear? Or has this been there for some time?

Darryl in Fairbanks

It appears to me the crack stops just as it curves under and all that stuff below it is paint coming off and buildup. I'll try to clean it up better and get a better look. I'm going to assume it's been there a while as I've only had the car a week. I just didn't check it over well enough before I bought it.

[John LaVoy]

Welcome to the hobby. I find your interest in modifications refreshing. I have been doing things to make the Model A more reliable and comfortable for years. My sedan is set up for long distance travel and was clocked at 75 MPH on the freeway in TN last spring on my way to the Blue Ridge Parkway Tour. The car is a Model A engine with balanced crank inserted rods high compression head touring cam Weber carb and electronic ignition. It has A/C heated seats and one of the hidden stereos. The Mitchell overdrive round out the chassis. Makes for a nice touring Model A. PM me if you want additional information on how where and why I did some of the things.

[roddyb34]

250px-TheHomer.jpg

Originally Posted by model a man

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[bdave_mcc]

Ok so I found a couple issues with the rear main. The oil tube was missing causing most of the oil leaking problems. Also there is about .017 end play on the crank and the babbit on the front part of the main cap was broken. Will that in itself cause problems? Is it worth the trouble to remove the engine to install one of those brass type rear main seals to correct the end play? I know I have to remove the back part of the babbit, is that something that an engine machine shop needs to do or can it be done at home? Thanks

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by bdave_mcc

Ok so I found a couple issues with the rear main. The oil tube was missing causing most of the oil leaking problems. Also there is about .017 end play on the crank and the babbit on the front part of the main cap was broken. Will that in itself cause problems? Is it worth the trouble to remove the engine to install one of those brass type rear main seals to correct the end play? I know I have to remove the back part of the babbit, is that something that an engine machine shop needs to do or can it be done at home? Thanks

I did mine at home, seems to work just fine. Stopped all the massive leaks I previously had. Did it with the engine out. Much easier to work on the bottom side when it's upside down.

[bdave_mcc]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I did mine at home, seems to work just fine. Stopped all the massive leaks I previously had. Did it with the engine out. Much easier to work on the bottom side when it's upside down.

What did you use/How did you remove the unneeded part of the old thrust area on the babbit?

[darrylkmc]

bdave_mcc,

To me, it looks as if your photo your Rear Main Babbitt is cracked.

Look at the right side, front side of cap, at the radius where it is flush with the block, both sides appear separated. It looks as if it runs from one side to the other, not parallel but at a arc, looks like pitting at the bottom.

Darryl in Fairbanks