Self/repair & rebuilding my "G" model flathead SIX

[Vintage Copper 47]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

It will bolt togetter.
An 11" clutch may be a bit tough compared to what you´re used to...but will pull any camper you can hook up to the -47 just fine

Originally Posted by JSeery

It depends on you liking the feel of the 11 inch and your concerns about performance. The 11 inch will feel like a heavy truck clutch, and the performance will be in that range as well. If you are happy with that, then ok, if not redrill it for a 10 inch or 9 inch.

Sounds good to me! ... That way I can do an even swap.. then tear down the original "G" model motor for a complete rebuild.. after that, I can put the original motor back in the car to keep that originality! Thanks for the advice!

[Vintage Copper 47]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

It will bolt togetter.
An 11" clutch may be a bit tough compared to what you´re used to...but will pull any camper you can hook up to the -47 just fine

Originally Posted by JSeery

It depends on you liking the feel of the 11 inch and your concerns about performance. The 11 inch will feel like a heavy truck clutch, and the performance will be in that range as well. If you are happy with that, then ok, if not redrill it for a 10 inch or 9 inch.

THANKS GUYS.. I have the "H" model on the engine stand.. but it seems way too front heavy, even though I tightened up the adjustable brackets, I get some extra flex & I had trouble lining up the holes to the clutch cover.. SEE Photos! Is there a better source for an engine stand or cradle style I could use that supports more of the weight? I got so concerned I re-attached my engine crane to take up some of the weight but I don't plan to leave it that way and cause undue stress the the bottle jack on the engine crane/hoist! Anybody have suggestions? Need some fordbarn expertise for a vendor source/solution to my problem!

[40cpe]

You can help by removing the clutch housing and flywheel and bolt the block to the engine stand

[Vintage Copper 47]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

You can help by removing the clutch housing and flywheel and bolt the block to the engine stand

Yes, I considered that 40cpe.. before that, I was going to remove all the accessories. I will also have to remove the starter.. I have always dealt with GM starters, so I am afraid when I remove it it will come apart on me!

I was just considering other options, I want to be able to do a run-up & test this motor before I do the swap..

[Vintage Copper 47]

Also, I am looking for input on the Pros & Cons of keeping the H motor instead of the G.. for instance, the front crab distributor is fairly maintenance free (no timing adjustments to speak of) But how about the H motor "Loadamatic"? Is it capable of performance increase or replacement with a mallory?
I read somewhere that you can weld a gm style distributor to a ford shaft.. Or am I getting too far ahead of myself.. I will email Jim at Bubba's Ignition for the best advice. Basically, I want to build a motor with slight performance increase but with the reliability I currently have..

[flatheadmurre]

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You can adapt basicly any "normal" style distributor to fit by turning down the shaft and mounting the ford gear on it.
The HEI might be good performance...but they sure aren´t pretty in a nice original car.
I usually take a compact accel or similar and adapt it...you get same performance and points.
Cut down the head of the H to raise compression that will give you increased power and mileage.

[Vintage Copper 47]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

You can adapt basicly any "normal" style distributor to fit by turning down the shaft and mounting the ford gear on it.
The HEI might be good performance...but they sure aren´t pretty in a nice original car.
I usually take a compact accel or similar and adapt it...you get same performance and points.
Cut down the head of the H to raise compression that will give you increased power and mileage.

Thanks, that's the kind of info I was looking for!

[Vintage Copper 47]

Ok.. I was taking a closer look at "H" motor on the stand.. And I noticed what looks like a weld/repair to the rear of the block at the intake/exhaust.. I haven't cleaned it up as yet.. Is this a terrible problem? I am not worried as I have a source for another block.. just wondering if should strip the motor down & pick up the 2nd block... The crap we find when we look closer at things..