Best New Tire

[CatMan1]

Looks like I might be getting some new tires for my '28 Sport Coupe. Is there a good brand, or rather, one to avoid? I want blackwall. Plain tread. I'm thinking about picking some up at Birdhaven in Colfax since it's a 45 minute drive and I could avoid shipping costs.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

IMO, Goodyear 21" Balloon tires are the best.

[ronn]

all depends on your budget.


do you like the 6. sandwich or prefer the 15. sandwich for lunch?


price is a major factor.

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by ronn

all depends on your budget.


do you like the 6. sandwich or prefer the 15. sandwich for lunch?


price is a major factor.

I'm cheap! I'll take the $5! lol

[DJ S]

I like Universal tires… great for the average hobbyist.
https://www.cokertire.com/universal-...RoCh1AQAvD_BwE

[CatMan1]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The tires I have on there now say: 4.40/4.50-21. Are those correct?

[LeonardS]

Originally Posted by CatMan1

The tires I have on there now say: 4.40/4.50-21. Are those correct?

Yes

[J Franklin]

I like the old GoodYear tread pattern.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by CatMan1

The tires I have on there now say: 4.40/4.50-21. Are those correct?

This is how misinformation gets started. In your title you asked for recommendations for the Best New Tire. Budget really should not have even entered this discussion, -and then only to find that you are admitting to being cheap. Being Cheap and wanting the Best really do not go hand in hand.


And ...in actuality, those sized tires are NOT correct. The correct size should be 450-21 unless you are installing them on a Taxi at which time they would have been 475-21.

[nkaminar]

How much driving do you intend to do? If you only occasionally drive your grand kids to the ice cream shop then almost any tire will do. However, if you do a lot of driving you should buy radial tires. The radial tires cost more up front but in the long run cost less because they last longer. Members here report better handling and ride with the radial tires. I have a 30 so I buy 19-inch tires, so I don't know the availability of radial tires for 21-inch wheels.

Regarding tires size, Brent is quoting the correct size as was put on the car when new. Unless you are going for high point judging, the size does not matter too much. The 4.75-21 will give you a little higher gear ratio which may help with your top speed. The 4.40/4.50-21 tires will help with climbing grades. All other things equal, larger size tires will provide better life and better traction but will require more steering effort.

[ronn]

if youre going to be cheap


check out JEGS, free shipping. I bought 2 sets of 19s, happier then a pig in slop!!!!!!!!!!!


Brent makes a good point, but price is 90% of the equation for most of us.

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

This is how misinformation gets started. In your title you asked for recommendations for the Best New Tire. Budget really should not have even entered this discussion, -and then only to find that you are admitting to being cheap. Being Cheap and wanting the Best really do not go hand in hand.


And ...in actuality, those sized tires are NOT correct. The correct size should be 450-21 unless you are installing them on a Taxi at which time they would have been 475-21.

I suppose I did word that wrong. Now I'm wondering what size I really should have......

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

How much driving do you intend to do? If you only occasionally drive your grand kids to the ice cream shop then almost any tire will do. However, if you do a lot of driving you should buy radial tires. The radial tires cost more up front but in the long run cost less because they last longer. Members here report better handling and ride with the radial tires. I have a 30 so I buy 19-inch tires, so I don't know the availability of radial tires for 21-inch wheels.

Regarding tires size, Brent is quoting the correct size as was put on the car when new. Unless you are going for high point judging, the size does not matter too much. The 4.75-21 will give you a little higher gear ratio which may help with your top speed. The 4.40/4.50-21 tires will help with climbing grades. All other things equal, larger size tires will provide better life and better traction but will require more steering effort.

That steering comment got me curious. I know cars steer hard without power steering, I'm no stranger to that having had numerous antique cars, but this little A has such heavy, heavy steering. Naturally there may be other things wrong than the tires, but now I wonder.

[LeonardS]

Originally Posted by CatMan1

I suppose I did word that wrong. Now I'm wondering what size I really should have......

“Someone” loves to tell everyone they are wrong. Many of the tires say 4.40-4.50-21(that’s what my Firestones are) Just buy a set and you will be fine. I doubt you will wear them out before they are too old to be safe. I have one A with 4.50-21 and another with 4.40-4.50-21. Both are fine for a driver.

[Hitman]

Originally Posted by CatMan1

That steering comment got me curious. I know cars steer hard without power steering, I'm no stranger to that having had numerous antique cars, but this little A has such heavy, heavy steering. Naturally there may be other things wrong than the tires, but now I wonder.

The original comment needs to be taken with a grain of salt. "Increased size"; now he said size doesn't matter, some women would disagree with that. However, to clarify, tire diameter shouldn't impact the steering effort, but tire width could. Most probably equate tire size as 21" or 19". You likely have other issues going on if the steering effort is heavy, properly adjusted cars are easy to steer, even easier when moving. Not F100 easy, but not F250 without power steering hard.

You need to figure out what your driving and restoration goals are. A lot of people promote radials, Burtz engines and other "solutions" to a non-existent problem. I personally use Goodyear tires on my cars, and they'll rival the radial replacements for drivability. I think they look 10 times better than any radial available for an A as well.

[nkaminar]

A Model A will be fairly easy to steer when the front end is in good condition. In 1930, lots of women were driving them around. The king pins should not be loose, the axle not bent, the various balls in the tie rod and drag link should be round with good pads and well lubricated. The steering box should be in good shape, correctly adjusted, and filled with modern gear lube (85W-140 G5). The tires should be at the proper pressure. In regards to steering effort, I would not worry about a slightly wider tire.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by CatMan1

That steering comment got me curious. I know cars steer hard without power steering, I'm no stranger to that having had numerous antique cars, but this little A has such heavy, heavy steering. Naturally there may be other things wrong than the tires, but now I wonder.

Model As should not be that hard to steer. I can turn my wheel with one hand. It may be the spindle thrust bearings worn out. Check the Mechanics Handbook, page 1-9 for proper set up.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Model As should not be that hard to steer. I can turn my wheel with one hand. It may be the spindle thrust bearings worn out. Check the Mechanics Handbook, page 1-9 for proper set up.

I agree with Y-B ( as usual). Model As should not have “heavy, heavy steering”. When I first bought my ‘31 a couple of years ago it steered heavy, then got progressively worse until it was practically locked up. Come to find out the steering box was completely dry except for some old crusty grease. Filled with 600W and it freed up. I then took the box off, tore it down, cleaned it internally and reassembled. All is good now.

Over the years leaking steering boxes were sometimes “fixed” by pumping chassis grease into them. Bad idea, the grease doesn’t stick to the worm gears. There are replacement bottom plates that put the opening above the liquid line, and sector bushings with seals. Good place to start on a hard steering problem is to remove the steering box from consideration with a thorough rebuild and lube with 85-140 GL5 lube and a proper adjustment (the Red Book has an excellent, step-by-step adjustment procedure). If you want you could install a shorter Pittman arm at that time to ease up the steering as well. But to be completely sure, check the rest of your steering parts as well.

[AYooperA]

Just mounted these Universal Classics from Coker Tire. I am told it’s a 6,000 to 8,000 mile tire but I will see. It will take me 10 years to find out the way I drive this car.
5 - 21” Blackwall tires, 5 - Hartford tubes, 5 - rim liners, Fedex shipping to my door in Michigan from Chattanooga. Total was right at a grand. John

[CatMan1]

Originally Posted by AYooperA

Just mounted these Universal Classics from Coker Tire. I am told it’s a 6,000 to 8,000 mile tire but I will see. It will take me 10 years to find out the way I drive this car.
5 - 21” Blackwall tires, 5 - Hartford tubes, 5 - rim liners, Fedex shipping to my door in Michigan from Chattanooga. Total was right at a grand. John

Those are nice! That's another thing, do I need to buy new tubes and liners or will the ones I have be just fine?