UPDATE - VIDEO of Horn Rod/Light Switch

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

That is the heart of your problem. Now you also have to space the horn rod from the retaining nut under it in the steering wheel since I see the surface of the nut was agressively ground down and is not level. If you loose your cool, drink a beer, relax and give yourself a break. Don't let a little learning frustrate you to the point that this is no longer recreation. life is too short. Worse case is you have to replace the steering shaft. I have a steering column that failed as I was backing the car into the storage. the top of the shaft is weak where the capture nut threads end.
Lights are less dangerous than no steering.
Bob

Bob,
Thanks. So you suggest I go with the nylon washer over the steel as a spacer under the switch?

I totally thank you for your words of wisdom, although I haven't drank in 26 years I did decide to take a break for a couple days, had a cigar and a cup of coffee and reflected on the problem. It's a learning experience and I love learning especially about Model A's.

[Tom Wesenberg]

With the switch not clipped in place, can you easily turn the horn rod lever to the lighting positions, 7, 6, 5, and 4 O'clock?

It should turn very easily and not try to turn the steering wheel as you turn the switch.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

With the switch not clipped in place, can you easily turn the horn rod lever to the lighting positions, 7, 6, 5, and 4 O'clock?

It should turn very easily and not try to turn the steering wheel as you turn the switch.

Tom
With the spider, spring and clip in but the light switch NOT attached the switch turns to those positions, but when you turn the wheel the switch still turns whether the switch is connected or not.

[Brentwood Bob]

Coffee is good. I like a coke Classic. Anyway, I don't understand why the horn rod turns with the wheel when the light switch is properly installed. 1930 coupe above (post 45) has the washer thing explained much better than I could. Are you using a reproduction wiring harness? I think We need someone close by to take a look.
If it doesn't go together right something is wrong.
Bob

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

Coffee is good. I like a coke Classic. Anyway, I don't understand why the horn rod turns with the wheel when the light switch is properly installed. 1930 coupe above (post 45) has the washer thing explained much better than I could. Are you using a reproduction wiring harness? I think We need someone close by to take a look.
If it doesn't go together right something is wrong.
Bob

Bob,
Yes I have all "new" reproduction parts from Snyder's out of the box last week. New wiring harness, light switch body, light switch and horn rod, copper bushing, spider, spring, clip, bail wire.

[sconnors]

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Originally Posted by 1930 coupe

I think that you have your rod sanded and working properly. It looks like your problem is in the switch. When using original switches and original wiring, there is a very firm click when you turn your lights on and off, you are on the wright track when you mentioned soldering up the three contacts but solder is not the way to do it. The brass rivet heads on original wiring were dished out and the three contacts would drop in the rivet heads with a firm click and hold the rod from turning, it took a firm push to turn your lights on and off, and you could feel a firm click when the contacts went in and out of the rivet heads. The reproduction wiring sold today has flat head brass rivets, so the three contacts slide right over them because there is no depression for the contacts to drop into. that is why your rod is turning. You can use a dremmel tool and make a depression in the brass rivets so the contacts will drop in and hold your rod from turning. Do not get carried away and make the depression too big because the rivet head will fall off if you go too deep. Just grind a little bit in the center of the rivet and try it, then grind a little bit more if you need to. If you do not get a firm click your rod will turn with the wheel.

So you think I should attack the problem at the light switch and not at the steering wheel? I was going to start with the washer that people had said to try under the light switch.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A picture of the contact plate and a picture of the 3 brass contacts would help us see if it's the problem. I haven't seen flat contacts on the repro harness, but you never know.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

A picture of the contact plate and a picture of the 3 brass contacts would help us see if it's the problem. I haven't seen flat contacts on the repro harness, but you never know.

Tom,
Here are the pictures you requested. Hope this helps
Scott

[sconnors]

A couple of questions keep mulling around in my head as I take a day or two off from this project but it's ever present in my mind. So I thought I'd throw my questions out there.

1. If the bushing at the top of the steering wheel moves when the wheel moves and the rod fits inside that, would it not follow that the rod too would move when the bushing moved?
   
2. Is the hole in the steering column the same width all the way down as it is at the very top where the nut and washer are? I as this because there is a slight drag when inserting the rod through the upper hole but once in place and the part under the switch where I've sanded enters the column there is plenty of play.
3. Should the WHOLE rod be sanded and not just the top and bottom?
4. Once everything is in, how hard should you have to move the switch for it to work? Light pressure, medium pressure, or hard pressure?
5. IF the indents in the switch need to be ground down with a Dremel, what's the best attachment to use to do this?
6. Another poster said they would not use solder as someone else did to build the contacts up, what else can be used.
7. IF I need to use a washer under the light switch which is best to use? I've heard one person say nylon, but haven't heard anyone voice an opinion as to why or why not use stainless? (I posted a picture of a couple of washers in an early post.

Sure hope to get this fixed before the snow flies. I live in Stephentown NY right on the MA/NY border, so if there's any Barner's that live in the area and would like to stop over I'd gladly welcome ya and give a cup of coffee for your efforts!
Thanks again guys for all the great help you've given me so far. Together we'll get this fixed, I'm sure of it!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Those two parts look fine to me and I don't see why they shouldn't work without modifying them.

Are you sure the contact plate is getting pressed all the way forward when the rear cap is in place?

Are you sure the spider is locked to the rod by the C clip?

Are you sure the C clip is properly engaging the switch?

Are you sure the bail wire is holding the switch tight to the steering box?

All 4 questions need to be yes!

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Those two parts look fine to me and I don't see why they shouldn't work without modifying them.

Are you sure the contact plate is getting pressed all the way forward when the rear cap is in place?
YES
Are you sure the spider is locked to the rod by the C clip?
YES
Are you sure the C clip is properly engaging the switch?
Not sure what you mean by the C clip "engaging" the switch?
Are you sure the bail wire is holding the switch tight to the steering box?
YES
All 4 questions need to be yes!

Tom,
See my answers above.

[tbirdtbird]

I may be way off with this but are we sure this is the correct length horn rod? I believe there were 5 different lengths and they did not vary by much at all. If the dimpled contacts do not sit firmly in the detents on the brass contacts it will not work....
It is possible the wrong one has been in there for a while. I find wrong parts in cars all the time and the question always becomes, not "why won't it work now" but "why did it work at all"

look at the vendors catalogues. Brattons at least (maybe others) tells you how to measure for what you need.

Is there a spider spring present? This was mentioned but I don't recall seeing an answer

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

I may be way off with this but are we sure this is the correct length horn rod? I believe there were 5 different lengths and they did not vary by much at all. If the dimpled contacts do not sit firmly in the detents on the brass contacts it will not work....
It is possible the wrong one has been in there for a while. I find wrong parts in cars all the time and the question always becomes, not "why won't it work now" but "why did it work at all"

look at the vendors catalogues. Brattons at least (maybe others) tells you how to measure for what you need.

Is there a spider spring present? This was mentioned but I don't recall seeing an answer

It is the correct length rod. I measured the old one and ordered the one with those exact measurements. And it matches exactly when put side by side. And yes, the spider spring is present.

[tbirdtbird]

It still may not be the correct one for your steering column.
I would read what Bratton's has to say about taking the measurement, then measure just for kicks.

I realize this is a longshot, but when you are having this much trouble with something, you have to go back to basics and check and recheck everything

In any event once you figure it out (it will end up being something totally ridiculous) please post back so we can all learn

[Tom Wesenberg]

My mistake on #3. I meant to say spider, not C clip. The spider must engage the slots in the switch correctly, so the spider should be at 6 and 12 O'clock and the switch should be in the off position.

Is the cup on the bottom of the steering in the correct position, so the wires exit out the top and not out the bottom?

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

It still may not be the correct one for your steering column.
I would read what Bratton's has to say about taking the measurement, then measure just for kicks.

I realize this is a longshot, but when you are having this much trouble with something, you have to go back to basics and check and recheck everything

In any event once you figure it out (it will end up being something totally ridiculous) please post back so we can all learn

Thanks, I did measure per the Bratton's and Mac's catalogs and mine is spot on.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

My mistake on #3. I meant to say spider, not C clip. The spider must engage the slots in the switch correctly, so the spider should be at 6 and 12 O'clock and the switch should be in the off position.

Is the cup on the bottom of the steering in the correct position, so the wires exit out the top and not out the bottom?

Tom,
Yes the spider is at 12 and 6 and the wires exit out of the top of the switch.

[sconnors]

Fellas,
I shot some video this morning and hopefully you guys can take a look and let me know your thoughts on this problem I'm trying to tackle.
http://youtu.be/9xOeMRTM-xw

[700rpm]

You have original parts on the left in your video. Use them if you can. Regarding your light rod turning, mine did the same thing with the brass ferrule in place. I know it's supposed to be there, but I removed mine and it then worked OK. Your light rod has to be perfectly straight, though, or it will turn regardless. Good video, by the way.

[Mitch//pa]

from what i see the fit on your horn rod is good... it will rotate until you install the light switch which will add resistance.
why dont you use the original light switch and cover??? i dont believe the repo switch and original cover interchange correctly..i could be wrong on that but i remember my orig and repo did not mate together right..