UPDATE - VIDEO of Horn Rod/Light Switch

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by ericr

have you tried turning the steering wheel while pulling out the light switch to various lengths, assuming that it will stay in position by itself?

Yes I have. The rod as everyone mentioned is thicker than the older ones. So the only place that it actually contacts is at the top where the bushing is once it's all the way in the column.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Mitch,
I sanded down the top of the rod right below the light switch pretty good. Did you use a washer on yours? What else did you do to get the horn rod to not turn when the wheel turns?

no washer just got the fit to be correct
once it drops in with no friction youll be good
use some grease up top also

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Mitch,
I sanded down the top of the rod right below the light switch pretty good. Did you use a washer on yours? What else did you do to get the horn rod to not turn when the wheel turns?

no washer just got the fit to be correct
once it drops in with no friction and spins relatively free you'll be good
use some grease up top also

[Bob Johnson]

I believe no one has mentioned what keeps the rod from moving. The light switch has a plate in it with three brass bumps. The bumps fit into brass depressions on the Bakelite (plastic) disk that is at the end of the wiring harness. I have seen reproduction parts where the bumps are not big enough and/or the depressions are not deep enough. If these two parts are not matched up there will not be enough resistance on the rod and it will turn with the steering wheel. I was able to fix one by building up the bumps with solder.


Bob

[ericr]

do you have a caliper that will allow you to measure the bushing diameter and the diameter of the rod? surely there are guys here that can tell you what kind of clearance is necessary

[Richard/Ca]

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Hi Connors I was having the same problem with my 1929 switch.Drove me nuts until I got a hold of another lower steering bearing. and to my surprize the flange is pressed on.Mine had work lose so over time. I turned the steering wheel the light would come on. Just a thought. Richard/Ca PS Sorry I just looked again yours is a 1930 different column

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

no washer just got the fit to be correct
once it drops in with no friction and spins relatively free you'll be good
use some grease up top also

Mitch,
What did you do to get it to fit correctly?

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by ericr

do you have a caliper that will allow you to measure the bushing diameter and the diameter of the rod? surely there are guys here that can tell you what kind of clearance is necessary

I do not have a caliper and am not familiar with them or where to get one, but if it'll fix the problem I'll go buy one!

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Bob Johnson

I believe no one has mentioned what keeps the rod from moving. The light switch has a plate in it with three brass bumps. The bumps fit into brass depressions on the Bakelite (plastic) disk that is at the end of the wiring harness. I have seen reproduction parts where the bumps are not big enough and/or the depressions are not deep enough. If these two parts are not matched up there will not be enough resistance on the rod and it will turn with the steering wheel. I was able to fix one by building up the bumps with solder.


Bob

Bob,
Thanks. How much solder did you use? I've seen the top end of the switch and know the bumps you're talking about.

[DANA BIZZELL]

Sconnors, Watched your video did not see spring and brass centralizer that goes between horn button and steering wheel. centralizer not bushing for rod.
Thanks
Dana

[Bob Johnson]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Bob,
Thanks. How much solder did you use? I've seen the top end of the switch and know the bumps you're talking about.

Not much solder just enough to make the bumps a little more pronounced. When installed each lighting location should have a positive stop where it takes some effort to move the lever. Also if the spring is not strong enough you will not get a positive stop. It is not the spring that that is just above the fork (the one that holds the rod down). It is the spring in the top part of the switch housing. That spring put the tension on the brass stops.

Bob

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by DANA BIZZELL

Sconnors, Watched your video did not see spring and brass centralizer that goes between horn button and steering wheel. centralizer not bushing for rod.
Thanks
Dana

Dana
In my video I had left the bushing totally out. There was no spring between the horn button and the steering wheel. There is a spring inside the horn button.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Bob Johnson

Not much solder just enough to make the bumps a little more pronounced. When installed each lighting location should have a positive stop where it takes some effort to move the lever. Also if the spring is not strong enough you will not get a positive stop. It is not the spring that that is just above the fork (the one that holds the rod down). It is the spring in the top part of the switch housing. That spring put the tension on the brass stops.

Bob

Bob,
Thanks, as far as I know there is no separate spring in the top part of the housing. There is a spring under the horn button but that is encased in the switch. The switch sets down inside the steering wheel against the brass bushing. Unless I'm missing something.

[ericr]

I went back through all your postings....did you rebuild that steering gear in any way? is the steering wheel original or repro?

[Bob Johnson]

Here is a picture of the spring I referred to. Laso notice the height of the brass bumps.



Bob

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by ericr

I went back through all your postings....did you rebuild that steering gear in any way? is the steering wheel original or repro?

I did not rebuild the gear its a Gemmer and I believe it's original

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Bob Johnson

Here is a picture of the spring I referred to. Laso notice the height of the brass bumps.



Bob

Bob
Thanks I see what you mean. The top of the switch is new from Bratton's and I'll try to build those tabs up with some solder

[sconnors]

Taking today off from working on the truck. Tomorrow I will be back at it and am going to do the following:

1. Remove the steering column (again) and pull the horn rod and install a nylon washer between the light switch and the steering wheel to see if I can get the rod to stop turning when the wheel is turned.
2. Build up the copper tabs on the upper light switch with some solder to help the light switch situation and see if that makes better connections.
   

Hoping someone can answer this question:
With the spider, spring and clip out when you turn the steering wheel should the light switch turn with it?



Someone posted yesterday that it will and that the spider, spring and clip prevent it from turning. My goal is to take the column out only once. The last time I slid the sector shaft through the frame to hold it in place, bolted the steering column to the bracket support in the cab and spun the wheel to test if the switch was moving but I DID NOT have the spider, spring and clip attached. Just wondering if it makes a difference.


If anyone has any other suggestions that the ones I've listed PLEASE send them my way.

Back at it tomorrow. As a guy we all know and respect once said:
“Whether you think you can, or you think you can't--you're right.”
Henry Ford

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Taking today off from working on the truck. Tomorrow I will be back at it and am going to do the following:

1. Remove the steering column (again) and pull the horn rod and install a nylon washer between the light switch and the steering wheel to see if I can get the rod to stop turning when the wheel is turned.
2. Build up the copper tabs on the upper light switch with some solder to help the light switch situation and see if that makes better connections.
   

Hoping someone can answer this question:
With the spider, spring and clip out when you turn the steering wheel should the light switch turn with it?



Someone posted yesterday that it will and that the spider, spring and clip prevent it from turning. My goal is to take the column out only once. The last time I slid the sector shaft through the frame to hold it in place, bolted the steering column to the bracket support in the cab and spun the wheel to test if the switch was moving but I DID NOT have the spider, spring and clip attached. Just wondering if it makes a difference.


If anyone has any other suggestions that the ones I've listed PLEASE send them my way.

Back at it tomorrow. As a guy we all know and respect once said:
“Whether you think you can, or you think you can't--you're right.”
Henry Ford

Yes, without the switch and spider there is nothing to stop it from turning
with the steering shaft.

Bob

[Brentwood Bob]

That is the heart of your problem. Now you also have to space the horn rod from the retaining nut under it in the steering wheel since I see the surface of the nut was agressively ground down and is not level. If you loose your cool, drink a beer, relax and give yourself a break. Don't let a little learning frustrate you to the point that this is no longer recreation. life is too short. Worse case is you have to replace the steering shaft. I have a steering column that failed as I was backing the car into the storage. the top of the shaft is weak where the capture nut threads end.
Lights are less dangerous than no steering.
Bob