Rear Motor Mounts

[CarlG]

I'm installing new rubber on the stock rear motor mounts. I bought new rubber and the bolt/bushing kit to install them, but am having a problem getting the bushing to seat into the rubber. I can get it in one side, but then when I try to get the other side it (with the frame in between) it just doesn't seem to want to mate up correctly. I know there must be some easy "trick" that I'm missing. Any suggestions?

[1931 flamingo]

Are not the rear mounts side specific?? Where are the "rubbers" from?? Some say there is a difference in thickness between vendors. Are you using a frame spreader??
Paul in CT

[CarlG]

1) The rear motor mounts are not side specific. They are drilled so that they can be used on either side.
2) Berts
3) Best information I have is that none of them are the correct thickness. They should be 3/16", but most are closer to 1/4". The ones I have are about .200, and I have sanded them down to 3/16"
4) I have a frame spreader, but not at that point yet, just trying to get the new rubbers installed between the motor mount and the frame.

[Fullraceflathead]

Dish soap or better yet Silicone spray will help.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The last two rubber motor mount kits I got a few years ago came from Snyder's and fit perfectly.

[Big hammer]

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The first side should be easy, if both sides are out :-) I too should have thought to replace
the rubber pieces (CRS) when my motor was out. I think one time I put one side in the remove it,put the other side in, then back to the first side and fought it. A frame spreader would have helped me,
poor then and still poor today :-( good luck and no coursing !
PS I may have used a Big Hammer

[Larry Jenkins]

Just installed the complete set from Snyders. Fit very well. No assembly problems.

Larry

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I'm installing new rubber on the stock rear motor mounts. I bought new rubber and the bolt/bushing kit to install them, but am having a problem getting the bushing to seat into the rubber. I can get it in one side, but then when I try to get the other side it (with the frame in between) it just doesn't seem to want to mate up correctly. I know there must be some easy "trick" that I'm missing. Any suggestions?

Call for Steve at Bert's and he can give you some suggestions or will help you out.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The last two rubber motor mount kits I got a few years ago came from Snyder's and fit perfectly.

I will second that...I got a pair from Brattons and a pair from Snyders...the Snyders pair were slightly thinner and more plyable then those from Brattons and worked perfectly.

Pluck

[SeaSlugs]

i too got snyders pads for my AA. fit perfectly with no fuss. i may have used a thin coat of grease to help the bushings slide in like butter but wasnt needed.

[inex01]

My Friend Tom who is the person everyone in our Baltimore club goes to when they have a mechanical question or need assistance with something mechanical. Tom told us that one of the main problems with engine vibrations is not installing the rear mounts correctly. The way he suggest is to tighten the nuts only as far as you see he cotter pin hole then install carter pin. I can attest that this works, my 31 Slant Sedan had a vibration after I reinstalled the engine with the nuts tight to the spacers. When I backed off the nuts it worked, no more vibration!. So Tom was correct "My car anyway" If they are tightened too much you hit the spacers and then you are really not using the rubber pads at all.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by inex01

My Friend Tom who is the person everyone in our Baltimore club goes to when they have a mechanical question or need assistance with something mechanical. Tom told us that one of the main problems with engine vibrations is not installing the rear mounts correctly. The way he suggest is to tighten the nuts only as far as you see he cotter pin hole then install carter pin. I can attest that this works, my 31 Slant Sedan had a vibration after I reinstalled the engine with the nuts tight to the spacers. When I backed off the nuts it worked, no more vibration!. So Tom was correct "My car anyway" If they are tightened too much you hit the spacers and then you are really not using the rubber pads at all.

I don't understand. Even with the spacers bottomed the engine mount
is totally insulated by rubber from the frame.

Bob

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Bob C

I don't understand. Even with the spacers bottomed the engine mount
is totally insulated by rubber from the frame.

Bob

I thought this too, to me the spacers are there to snug up against so you don't squash the rubber out

[inex01]

Originally Posted by Bob C

I don't understand. Even with the spacers bottomed the engine mount
is totally insulated by rubber from the frame.

Bob

Well Bob, I do not understant either, but it worked and as far I am very pleased, Oh it also worked on my 31 Roadster, maybe I just tightened the bolts way to much?

[CarlG]

Update:
After hearing all of the above, I ordered a kit (Both rubber and hardware) from Snyder's. The Snyder's rubber kit was much closer to the 3/16 thickness that it's suppose to be. And they were much easier to install. However the bolts were too long, and would not tighten up unless tightened quite a bit past the cotter pin hole. End result was that I used the rubber out of the Snyder's kit, and the bolts out of Bert's kit. Spacers didn't matter as they were both exactly the same size.

Next, we shall see how well the engine slips down between the mounts.

Thanks for all your comments, they helped immensely.

[Fullraceflathead]

Seems I've read that several people have been having trouble with Snyders hardware lately.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

Seems I've read that several people have been having trouble with Snyders hardware lately.

Not me...Of coarce I use the original "hard" ware with the Snyders pads.

Pluck

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

Seems I've read that several people have been having trouble with Snyders hardware lately.

The person who attacked Snyders for bad hardware did not offer valid reasons..