The Ford Barn

Yoyodyne · 08-15-2020, 02:54 PM

Will No-Rosion prevent the corrosion damage to 33-36 aluminum heads?

flatjack9 · 08-15-2020, 03:14 PM

I've been looking in to that. Seeing as I did hot water heating as well as plumbing, we used chemicals in a boiler to neutralize rust and acid buildup. So I just ordered a couple gallons to try out in ,my engines on the test stand. It is considerably cheaper than No-Rosion and probably the same stuff.

JSeery · 08-15-2020, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I've been looking in to that. Seeing as I did hot water heating as well as plumbing, we used chemicals in a boiler to neutralize rust and acid buildup. So I just ordered a couple gallons to try out in ,my engines on the test stand. It is considerably cheaper than No-Rosion and probably the same stuff.

Be interesting to see your results!

russcc · 08-15-2020, 07:47 PM

Studs Continued

Completed the installation of the studs, gaskets and heads on the 59L

Here is what I learned about studs.

1. NOS Ford studs are an excellent fastener, and there is no need to buy recent aftermarket products when Fred Wilner at SSO has NOS Ford Studs.

2. Flatjack had a great tip about installing a few studs at time and trial fitting the head.
I did that, maybe 2 or 3 at time. Each time the head went on easily over them. At one point there was stud that was binding in the head. I drilled out that 15/32’s hole on the Bridgeport to 31/64”, (.016), solved that issue

3. I followed Pete’s advice on installing the studs. Applied Permatex #2 on the USS block end of the studs, and wound them down carefully until they stopped, then backed them out about a ¼ turn or so, then trial fitted the head. Next a torqued in one of the studs the head had slid over easily, and that apparently caused the stud to cock in deck threads for some reason, and it bound up in the head when trial fitted the head again.
Back it out about a ¼ to ½ turn, and it straightened itself out, and head slipped on as before.

4. Let the block sit for a day or so to allow the Permatex #2 to semi-harden, installed the head gasket, coated the studs shanks with Graphite based anti-seize, installed the head and torgued them initially to 40#s in successive stages. I will re-torque to 50 -55#s after I run the engine through a few heart & cool cycles..

Summary, although it took a little longer to trial fit the heads a number of times, in the long run it went very smoothly, no frustration with a stuck head, no need to whack the stud with the bronze bludgeon to try and align the stud with hole in the head. I just hope the next time I remember how I did it.

flatjack9 · 08-15-2020, 09:26 PM

Congratulation on a good install.

Tim Ayers · 08-16-2020, 08:27 AM

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Congrats. What I like about this post is you didn't give up, found a solution and learned something new.

08-15-2020, 02:54 PM	#21
Yoyodyne Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lancaster PA Posts: 531	Re: Installing head studs in a 59L Will No-Rosion prevent the corrosion damage to 33-36 aluminum heads?

08-15-2020, 03:14 PM	#22
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,526	Re: Installing head studs in a 59L I've been looking in to that. Seeing as I did hot water heating as well as plumbing, we used chemicals in a boiler to neutralize rust and acid buildup. So I just ordered a couple gallons to try out in ,my engines on the test stand. It is considerably cheaper than No-Rosion and probably the same stuff.

08-15-2020, 07:47 PM	#24
russcc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,871	Re: Installing head studs in a 59L Studs Continued Completed the installation of the studs, gaskets and heads on the 59L Here is what I learned about studs. 1. NOS Ford studs are an excellent fastener, and there is no need to buy recent aftermarket products when Fred Wilner at SSO has NOS Ford Studs. 2. Flatjack had a great tip about installing a few studs at time and trial fitting the head. I did that, maybe 2 or 3 at time. Each time the head went on easily over them. At one point there was stud that was binding in the head. I drilled out that 15/32’s hole on the Bridgeport to 31/64”, (.016), solved that issue 3. I followed Pete’s advice on installing the studs. Applied Permatex #2 on the USS block end of the studs, and wound them down carefully until they stopped, then backed them out about a ¼ turn or so, then trial fitted the head. Next a torqued in one of the studs the head had slid over easily, and that apparently caused the stud to cock in deck threads for some reason, and it bound up in the head when trial fitted the head again. Back it out about a ¼ to ½ turn, and it straightened itself out, and head slipped on as before. 4. Let the block sit for a day or so to allow the Permatex #2 to semi-harden, installed the head gasket, coated the studs shanks with Graphite based anti-seize, installed the head and torgued them initially to 40#s in successive stages. I will re-torque to 50 -55#s after I run the engine through a few heart & cool cycles.. Summary, although it took a little longer to trial fit the heads a number of times, in the long run it went very smoothly, no frustration with a stuck head, no need to whack the stud with the bronze bludgeon to try and align the stud with hole in the head. I just hope the next time I remember how I did it.

08-15-2020, 09:26 PM	#25
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,526	Re: Installing head studs in a 59L Congratulation on a good install.

08-16-2020, 08:27 AM	#26
Tim Ayers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NJ Posts: 6,177	Re: Installing head studs in a 59L Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Congrats. What I like about this post is you didn't give up, found a solution and learned something new.