Rear Hub Assembly

[shew01]

Les Andrews, page 1-362, doesn’t specify... When reassembling the rear drum, the axle key and the tapered part of the axle that goes into the drum should be dry, not greased, correct?




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[shew01]

Also, Les Andrews, page 1-362, specifies 125 ft/lbs of torque for the axle nut. On this forum, I’ve seen recommendations for anything between 65 ft/lbs and 125 ft/lbs. Is there a consensus value that the seasoned folks use for the rear axle nut torque?


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[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by shew01

Les Andrews, page 1-362, doesn’t specify... When reassembling the rear drum, the axle key and the tapered part of the axle that goes into the drum should be dry, not greased, correct?




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Correct. I use a spray of brake cleaner to get rid of any trace of oiliness and I warm the hub before it goes on. I tension the nut asap after ramming the hub home and give the hub a whack with a hammer to set in as best I can. Have everything you need for the job close at hand before you start.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by shew01

Also, Les Andrews, page 1-362, specifies 125 ft/lbs of torque for the axle nut. On this forum, I’ve seen recommendations for anything between 65 ft/lbs and 125 ft/lbs. Is there a consensus value that the season folks use for the rear axle nut torque?


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I don't use a torque wrench on those nuts - I just do them up tight till things feel about right and the split pin holes line up.

[shew01]

Actually, my questions above are my “thinking ahead.” I’m not ready for reassembly at this very moment, but I still need to double check the information. At the moment, I’m trying to grease the rear wheel bearings.

Getting the drum off the axle “was a bear.” Ultimately, I borrowed a “honking big” hub puller, and the drum finally came loose with a loud pop.

The snap ring that holds the roller bearings in place was a challenge until I discovered that I could fish an awl behind it, and the snap ring then came out easily.



I’m trying to get the grease seal out of the back side of the drum. I don’t have a grease seal puller. On other old cars, I’ve used a screwdriver (which always tears up the seal, but I normally replace the seals anyway).

So, what do you folks use for removing the grease seal?


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[shew01]

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Originally Posted by Synchro909

Correct. I use a spray of brake cleaner to get rid of any trace of oiliness and I warm the hub before it goes on. I tension the nut asap after ramming the hub home and give the hub a whack with a hammer to set in as best I can. Have everything you need for the job close at hand before you start.

There are two shims on this wheel. I presume that I need to reinstall them, correct? They wouldn’t be there unless wear was present, I presume.

Actually, I ordered new shims—the old ones are a little boogered up. I’m just confirming if I am on the right track.


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[1crosscut]

Lay a piece of cardboard on a concrete floor and drop the hub from a couple feet and let the bearing push the seal out. May take several firm drops.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by shew01

There are two shims on this wheel. I presume that I need to reinstall them, correct? They wouldn’t be there unless wear was present, I presume.

Actually, I ordered new shims—the old ones are a little boogered up. I’m just confirming if I am on the right track.


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I've used this shutdown to catch up on some maintenance I needed to do on all sorts of things around the house including fix the rear end on one of my cars. That hub had 2 shims in it and the hub nearly fell off when I undid the nut. With any shims in there, I recommend you frequently check the tightness of the axle nut. In my case, they were there because the previous owner hadn't kept the nuts tight and the taper in thehub was unbelievably galled. The axle was VERY second hand as well so I replaced both and while I was in the diff, I rectified another couple of things that would have had me walking pretty soon.
I note that one of your wheel studs has been welded from the back and the welds protrude, yet nothing has been rubbing it. That leads me to think that you may not need 2 shims - 1 might be enough.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I note that one of your wheel studs has been welded from the back and the welds protrude, yet nothing has been rubbing it. That leads me to think that you may not need 2 shims - 1 might be enough.

I hadn’t noticed the weld. Thanks for pointing it out.

I’m not sure what I’m looking for. How can I tell if one shim is enough?


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[shew01]

WARNING TO NEWBIES: The shims can be razor sharp, and there can be ragged edges.


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[Y-Blockhead]

Is it an optical delusion or is your axle key install upside down and backwards?

The tapper should be down and in...

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by shew01

I hadn’t noticed the weld. Thanks for pointing it out.

I’m not sure what I’m looking for. How can I tell if one shim is enough?


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Grind the weld flat, then trial and error. Put the hub on and turn it. If you hear it scrape, put in the other shim. If not, leave just the one. The less the better.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Is it an optical delusion or is your axle key install upside down and backwards?

The tapper should be down and in...

Sorry, I don’t understand what you are asking. This is the way I found it.

Les Andrews, page 1-362, says, “7. Insert an axle key (beveled edge toward inside, key must be tight fit in axle grove) and the drum.

I’m not sure what that means either. Here is a picture of the axle key.




How should it fit? The pictures above are from the driver side of the car.

If it was installed wrong, maybe that is why I had such a hard time removing the drum.

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[shew01]

I took another picture. Is this one clearer?




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[Y-Blockhead]

Taper end of key should be toward differential with the taper down. You have the taper end pointing out with taper up.

[johnbuckley]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Taper end of key should be toward differential with the taper down. .

Well thank you for pointing that out. However I reckon most are probably inserted as Shew01's photo without problems arising!

[john charlton]

When I fit a hub I clean the axle taper and the hub inside taper with cellulose thinners . It
all MUST be grease free. It is a mechanical bond between the components and once set it is a solid connection with no lateral load on the key . When you have to use a shim you cannot get this bond so the hub relies on the key and the nut and it is easy to pull the hub sometimes no need for a puller . If you are running shims you must frequently check hub tightness as over time the shims wear out and slop develops.I torque the hub to just over 100 ft lbs .

John in still locked down Suffolk County England .

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Taper end of key should be toward differential with the taper down. You have the taper end pointing out with taper up.

Thanks. The earlier picture is the way I found it when the drum came off. On reassembly, I’ll install it the other way. Like this, correct?




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[shew01]

Originally Posted by john charlton

When I fit a hub I clean the axle taper and the hub inside taper with cellulose thinners

I don’t think I’ve ever heard of cellulose thinners. Will brake cleaner work just as well?

This is what I have on hand.




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[shew01]

(Accidental post)


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