Weird starting problem...UPDATE

[Nabco]

Took Sister for a ride out in the country today to a couple farmers markets, she started right up when we left home, drove a little over 20 miles and ran great. Made our first stop for about 10 minutes came out and started right up. Drove a couple miles and stopped again for about 15 minutes. When we came out she wouldn't start, nothing when I hit the starter just a little woop, would not turn over...lights and horn worked, tried again in a couple minutes still nothing, let it sit 10 minutes and she almost starts then nothing again. Let her sit 20 minutes and started right up like there was nothing wrong. When we got home I let her sit for 10 minutes and started right up ...... any thoughts.

[oldwoodsman]

Could be starter bushings when the starter warms up the armature drags.

[Synchro909]

Do you have a cutout switch fitted? I recently had one of those with the green knob on it go bad. The car would give as you call it, a little woop, then nothing. Tightening the screw got me going. I have since replaced the switch.

[Nabco]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Could be starter bushings when the starter warms up the armature drags.

Thanks, I'll experiment with that.

[Nabco]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Do you have a cutout switch fitted? I recently had one of those with the green knob on it go bad. The car would give as you call it, a little woop, then nothing. Tightening the screw got me going. I have since replaced the switch.

No cutout switch but my father-in-law did install a fuse that I believe does the same thing, I'll check and see if the clips are maybe loose.

Thanks

[fastroadster]

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or bad starter switch. take off clean contacts

[heneste]

You can also check the connections at the ignition switch to make sure they haven't loosened up with vibrations. I'm thinking it may be a loose connection at the switch (or if the switch is worn) possibly the switch isn't making a good connection all the time.

[Mitch//pa]

Start with the basics, battery condition, connections, charge rate. Always start the car with the spark lever in the full retard position, up.

[Nabco]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Start with the basics, battery condition, connections, charge rate. Always start the car with the spark lever in the full retard position, up.

Thanks Mitch, I do always make sure the spark is in the full retard position when starting. This is probably a dumb question but if the battery was bad would the lights and horn be working, when it wouldn't turn over I checked both and they were fine.

[ronn]

lights and horn draw less current then starter-so batt could be going.

[Mitch//pa]

What Ronn said
Load test it and cell ck it.. Sulfated batteries do strange things

[Nabco]

Thanks guys...

[eagle]

Highly unlikely it's the battery with the conditions you describe. I would check the starter switch and armature. Easy enough to do. Put a volt meter across the starter switch, should be 0 v when running starter, whether or not it turns over. Should be battery voltage to ground (under load) when ru ning starter.

[larrys40]

agree with Mitch's assessment of checking the basics. Make sure your frame ground is good and clean, take off the frame end and make sure it's clean. I've had battery cables themselves have ends that weren't making good enough connections for the starter load but would work with lights and horn. Had that one on one of my own last year.

I doubt it's the starter bushings as it takes a lot for them to cause issue... but you could have a weak or dead segment or two on the starter ameture and got unlucky enough for rotation to stop on them. Not saying that's it but just another thought.
my bet is starter cables, grounds, starter switch, etc. I would check and make sure the starter switch nuts are tight. It's one of my checks I do on all that I work on and almost every car has them loose. sometimes you have to take off the upper nut to tighten the lower first and then reinstall the cable and tighten upper nut. I have an electrical tape wrapped 5/8 wrench I use so not to have any short issues just in case.

Larry Shepard

[H. L. Chauvin]

All above suggestions good.

1. With a heavily painted flywheel near starter mounting face, and a heavily painted starter face, on occasion, starter does not have a good ground ..... fix: Remove paint.

2. Starter switch malfunctioning is common, especially when one cannot see inside switch ... remove starter switch, touch top button on starter with hot battery cable to see if starter rotates ..... if bypassing switch works every time, usually switch needs work.

3. Assemble everything, have someone stand in front of car, turn lights "ON", and try starting ..... when starter rotates easily, usually lights will dim; however, if the starter does not rotate, or does not rotate well, with starter switch depressed, usually lights go "OUT", usually indicating the starter is internally grounding out ..... lots of times near brushes.

Just please report back ..... many possibilities.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by Nabco

No cutout switch but my father-in-law did install a fuse that I believe does the same thing, I'll check and see if the clips are maybe loose.

Thanks

The starter runs on full battery power and is unfused. The fuse you are talking about is probably for lighting and ignition protection.however it is good to make sure there isn't any loose connections. I soldered the rivits on mine, but still have to be careful of the clips getting weak.
If he did fuse the starter, that would be very very unusual.

[Nabco]

Thanks for all the responses guys, I will report back what I find.

[Tom Endy]

One area that has not been mentioned is the connection of the battery ground cable to the frame. It is out of sight and out of mind and is often the problem you are describing as it may be corroded and rusted and a poor ground with paint or powder coating on the frame

You will have to remove the battery to address the issue. Once the battery is removed you can gain access to the cable and bolt. Remove both and clean the raised boss on the frame until the metal is bright and shinny. Remove all paint and rust. Wire wheel the bolt and the end of the cable and reassemble all.

Tom Endy

[SeaSlugs]

ya the no crank has nothing to do with anything besides battery, neg cable to starter switch, starter switch, starter itself, pos terminal on battery to starter case path. Just start checking connections it yes I agree start with the ground side of things first and tightness of all connections. And yes be careful t not dead short anything.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I like to connect a volt meter across possible points of voltage drop. One place is to probe the battery - post and the starter switch stud, then read the voltage when you are cranking the engine with the key off. Have the volt meter set on a low DC volt scale and if you get one or more volts showing, then there is too much resistance along that path. It could be oxidation on the cable end or battery post, loose nut on starter switch, too light a battery cable, or a poor connection where the battery cable is molded into the batter post clamp. I've actually worked on a couple cars over the years where a very slight tug pulled the cable right out of the lug.