model A trailer

[oldwoodsman]

I'm looking for some Ideas for fabing a lightweight model A trailer for a camping trip I plan to make next summer. I have a complete front axle and a rear end and was wondering which would be more suitable for a trailer, I've heard of them built from both. Any ideas or pictures would be much appreciated.
Thanks Tim

[SeaSlugs]

hmm, rear axle could hold more weight and has the triangle supports to make it more stable but at a heavier cost. Front axle would be lighter but gotta find a way to get and keep the spindles 100% straight.

Not to mention getting the thing registered and cleared thru the DMV to be allowed on the highway.

Either way i think its going to take some odd fabrication skills to get a spring or springs to fit under it and make a steel frame for it all to fit to. Might be better off buying a small harbor freight trailer and building off that. a 4'x8' trailer platform from them is $280.00 with a 1195 lb capacity. easily put a 4x8 sheet of exterior grade plywood down and start building a camper.

Or take it and cut it down to whatever size you want. Could reproduce a teardrop trailer, personally i think their neat and perfect for camping. Model A is going to need all the lightweight stuff you can get and slightly aerodynamic wouldn't be bad at all.

[oldwoodsman]

Should have been more clear. Looking to build a utility trailer to haul camping gear not a camper. found a pic of a model T trailer built from a front axle, but no detail as to how they locked the front spindles

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Should have been more clear. Looking to build a utility trailer to haul camping gear not a camper. found a pic of a model T trailer built from a front axle, but no detail as to how they locked the front spindles

ahhh yea slight difference haha, HF does sell alot smaller trailers. I have seen people use those motorcycle trailers behind model A's before. Lockable watertight very lightweight.

Does anyone have pictures of vintage trailers?

[SkipShift]

[oldwoodsman]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

thanks Seaslug here is a pic of one I found, would like to keep it vintage with same size wheels and tires.

[Bruce Adams]

I like the $400 small hard-shell covered tear-drop looking one that Harbor Freight sells if you are not committed to replicating a Model A or an original teardrop.

[oldwoodsman]

thanks Bruce on sale for $349, but looking for a period look and a little more room. Would like some ideas on locking a front axle if anybody has done it. a couple more pics I found

[eagle]

Not a problem licensing a homemade trailer in MN. I've done it several times. Go to a license bureau and tell them you want to license a homemade trailer. They charge you $20 (???) or something like that and give you tabs to put on the tongue. No plates or anything.

[oldwoodsman]

Thanks Eagle been there done that 28 bucks for a life time lic. at least they're not to fussy about licensing a home made here.

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

I have several: A '67 Cox canvas fold out weighs 667# empty. Probably 950# on the road. Heavy on long grades and hills. My utility box with adapters for A wheels under the fenders has 4'X8' box which is longer than needed. Next is a single swivel wheel trailer with cargo box. Very light and easy to back up. If using a front A axle, cut the tie rod in the middle, flatten the inner ends and bolt through the axle. Sorry I can't post pics.

[Joe K]

Model A wheels are a 5-1/2" bolt circle. Late Model T wheels are a 4-1/2" bolt circle.

See http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...el+bolt+circle

Northern tool sells a 2K 5 bolt 4-1/2" bolt circle trailer axle WITH springs and mounts for $199.

I hate to see a Model A (or T or whatever) axle being used as a trailer. I've converted too many back to automobiles from trailer use.

Joe K

[oldwoodsman]

Joe... I get your point, but I'd like to use a model A wheel, thus only needing one spare. reading the previous post from Bruce about his trailer with adapters for A wheels gets me to thinking about the possibilities of using a northern tools axle.
Bruce... maybe you can describe your adapters.
thanks Tim

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Measure at the middle of the tread at spindle height from left to right and write this number down, now do the same thing on the rear of the tires and note the dimension. You want the same measurement front to rear once you have this tack weld the spindles to the axle and recheck and readjust once you are good weld it up.

[CarlG]

Here's one:

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

Measure at the middle of the tread at spindle height from left to right and write this number down, now do the same thing on the rear of the tires and note the dimension. You want the same measurement front to rear once you have this tack weld the spindles to the axle and recheck and readjust once you are good weld it up.

yea i was thinking somehting similar but the problem i see is yes to get the "toe" set perfect you can use your method but actually getting the angle straight (so the face of the rim is perfectly perpendicular to the axle) is going to be tricky.

i like that wooden homemade trailer but not sure if i trust that wood beam with the spring shackles screwed to it... that board is under alot of stress. I would at least make a metal plate to go between the spring shackles on the bottom of the trailer.

some interesting links that may get some mental gears going:

5 on 5 1/2 modern trailer hubs:
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trai...~1|2_Inch.aspx

cross refrence for modern cars+trucks:
http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...#axzz2l9leUBAL

may be of some help.

[Charlie Stephens]

Not quite era correct (I am surprised to see post #5) but I think I would step up for one of the reproduction Mullin's trailers.
Charlie Stephens

[SeaSlugs]

Looked up mullins trailers to see what you were talkin about - sounds and looks like exactly the OP is going for.

http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/mullinstrailer.html

can buy one from here with a 5 on 5.5 pattern and choice of fenders to make it look right. Made out of fiberglass so very light weight but durable.

[700rpm]

I just sold this one for $750. Made from Model T front axle and pickup box. I didn't make it, but it tracked real well. The tongue should have been longer.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

yea i was thinking somehting similar but the problem i see is yes to get the "toe" set perfect you can use your method but actually getting the angle straight (so the face of the rim is perfectly perpendicular to the axle) is going to be tricky...

Back in the mid '50s, my Dad had a trailer built from the remnants of a '48 Ford Pickup. The axle was the front axle from the PU, set under the rear springs. The axle was welded so that it didn't turn. It tracked very true, tire wear was normal. He used that trailer on a regular basis for over 50 years, never a problem with the tracking, or the toe in.

[oldwoodsman]

The Mullins trailer looks great, but a bit beyond my budget and for some reason I have to do things the hard way.
thanking everybody for the input, now I have a few ideas to work over in my head before I start.

[John LaVoy]

I have used one of the fiberglass Mullins since the 70s. It is lighter in weight, so the Model A can handle the load. The fiberglass is easy to keep up. I like the fact that it is lockable. Several years ago we ran an article on where to get the hinges and locks available new.

[txturbo]

Here is what I plan to pull someday.

[oldwoodsman]

Originally Posted by txturbo

Here is what I plan to pull someday.

Turbo...looks like it needs a little TLC

[frank mcdaniels]

oldwoodsman, I also made one from a model T pickup box. It looks like the otherones pictured. I use it alot and it trailers fine. I got spindles with the model A bolt pattern at pioneer rim and wheel. I made a straight axle from square tubing. I also would advise against using original axels because I think they add to much weight and your going to want to have the springs 90 degrees to the axle anyway (not parallel like on the car originally).Springs and shackles are cheap. I used regular trailer fenders on the sides of the box. Looks good and works well. Frank

[txturbo]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Turbo...looks like it needs a little TLC

That's what it looked like when I got it....it's still undergoing a rebuild.

[A Model Man]

Here is an interesting article about a Model A camping group:
http://issuu.com/cooltears/docs/2014_0102low

[ctvpa]

Be sure to check your local laws. Here in Mass we must have a certified trailer axle. We cannot fabricate one from an old axle. But you can get an axle at Tractor supply that fits the model A wheels, at an affordable price. They have the springs and everything that fit for easy fabrication.

[SeaSlugs]

sometimes i wish we did - theres some real scrap heaps attempting to roll down the road...

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Old,

Model A front axles make great utility trailers and/or boat trailers.

They were very common in rural areas & were later towed at 70mph on interstates without a problem.

Many different designs were used back then; however, -- today with so much vehicle theft, some DMV's want invoices for materials used to build "homemade" trailers -- check with DMV first.

One good design that will last over 75 years with constant use is:

1. Use a standard Model A front axle with attached wishbone, front backing plates, good spindles, good king pins, adjustable tie rod & with standard front spring attached in standard shackles. (Clamp tie rod to one leg of wishbone with a heavy duty "U" bolt & tighten both "U" bolt nuts after setting wheel toe-in at about 1/32").

2. Remove brake shoes, brake springs etc. & install used steel drums with good lugs & new front wheel bearings -- brakes will not be used.

3. No need for shocks -- front spring is adjustable depending on loads -- with spring left as is with very light loads such as light boats, there will be far too much bouncing -- after trailer is partially built place rear frame of trailer under a raised house, bear down on the tongue, & wrap a heavy duty chain around the top of the spring, (4x6 transverse member mentioned below), & bottom of axle & place bolt in chain after spring is compressed -- with trial & error on how tight to adjust spring one can obtain good results & prevent too much bouncing depending on heavy or light loads.

4. To set tongue 90 degrees to the axle, always measure equal distances from the exact center of the trailer tongue ball to the exact front center of each steel wheel rim or front center of each rubber tire.

5. With two square corner "U" bolts, (similar to rear spring "U" bolts), clamp a 4x6 piece of white oak provided transverse over the spring -- cut bottom of 4x6 with an arch to fit on top of spring -- place a 1/4" thick x 3-1/2" wide x full length plate on top of 4x6 with a vertical 7/16" thru-bolt near both ends, one right & one left through steel plate & 4x6.

6. Floor beams, treated 2x4's can be attached to 4x6 oak with 1/8" thick 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" vertical steel angles thru-bolted to sides of 2x4's and through bolted to read side of 4x6 oak -- allow 2x4's to rest on 4x6 oak.

7. A 4x4 steel tube makes a good tongue.

8. Lots more detail, but this may help to get a good start -- Model A rear fenders with Model A tail lights can be bolted to trailer sides -- use same to attach lighted trailer license.

[John LaVoy]

I saw this and thought if I was going camping this would be the way to go!

[Brobrian]

Man, I have been wanting a proper looking model A trailer for my PU too. I'd fit mine out as a mobile carpentry work station. Or how about a nice Panhead loaded in the back.
Ahh, well, someday I'll be retired and can outfit my PU with all the cool stuff.

[CarlG]

I always thought I'd like to have a Mullins, or even something like the pictures in post #15 to tow behind my PU.

[V4F]

where on harbor freight is this trailer discussed above ? ...... thanks .. steve

***I like the $400 small hard-shell covered tear-drop looking one that Harbor Freight sells***

[H. L. Chauvin]

For a quality Model A trailer, to reply #30, might add:

9. One can make an adjustable temporary trailer tongue out of wood that can be lengthened & shortened. Then go to a sandy area or even a grassy area & turn your Model A steering wheel all the way to one side & pull the trailer with your Model A. Next, adjust the length of the temporary tongue until the trailer tires follow in the same marks as the Model A tires -- this length with the permanent steel tongue will help to prevent a homemade trailer from jumping concrete curbs on sharp turns, & helps preventing jack-knifing when backing up -- especially with some Model A owners whose necks cannot rotate 180 degrees -- unless a nice looking gal is seen in the rear view mirror.

10. Tailgates can be made removable & can hinge in (2) separate 2" long 1/2" pipes neatly welded to a 3" x 2" 1/8" thick steel plate screwed to the rear wood cross bar with (4) screws each.

11. Tailgate hinge pins can be made with (2), 1/2" bolts with a bottom horizontal 1-3/4" length bent 90 degrees to fit into the (2) 1/2" pipes -- top vertical part of hinge pin bolt can be flattened & screwed or thru-bolted into tail gate.

12. The utility trailer my Dad made in 1932 was so well detailed, it even had pin striping after painting -- could be converted to a boat trailer -- or even used in carrying (2) wood boats, one on top of the other -- nothing but class. We dismantled it in 1996 -- still have front axle.

13. On his trailer, his spindles were neatly welded to the spring perches with a very short piece of steel pipe running fore & aft, acting as a very neat fixed connection between the spring perch & the spindle -- appears no end to the neat ways our ancestors used to "make-do."

[plind]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

The Mullins trailer looks great, but a bit beyond my budget and for some reason I have to do things the hard way.
thanking everybody for the input, now I have a few ideas to work over in my head before I start.

Hi.
Maybe this is something for you..


http://www.poul-hedegaard.dk/Mine%20...xMineBiler.htm

Pic 2 on this side...

Per

[Brobrian]

Since my truck can only haul about 700lb in the bed, and maybe only 500 at full speed, doesn't that mean that my tongue weight would have to be somewhat less than that? Have to be a light trailer and well balanced loads.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Brobrian

Since my truck can only haul about 700lb in the bed, and maybe only 500 at full speed, doesn't that mean that my tongue weight would have to be somewhat less than that? Have to be a light trailer and well balanced loads.

upgrade to an AA and can haul +1.5 tons. not to mention a bed the size that most camping tents can be setup on haha

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Brobrian

Since my truck can only haul about 700lb in the bed, and maybe only 500 at full speed, doesn't that mean that my tongue weight would have to be somewhat less than that? Have to be a light trailer and well balanced loads.

Most non-pintle hitches try to limit the tongue weight to 200 lbs. This because that is about the limit that two straining human backs can carry to place the trailer tongue on the hitch.

Still, you can have a "balanced load" of considerably more in a trailer and still maintain the 200lb or less.

As to the total GVW you can carry, the limitation in the Model A bed is derived from it's original design in carrying people. Think 5 full size adults each weighing less than 200lbs. Factor in gas to compensate for a light person and you have a total weight allowed in the car/truck of 1000lbs. Subtract you and the gas, and you have perhaps 750 lbs

But that the car/truck. You probably can pull more than that. The limitation is more to starting and wear and tear on the driveline (clutch primarily) than any weight on the vehicle. Oh, and don't forget stopping. The stopping inertia of the entire load comes on the brakes of the car only.

Heh. I used my 1996 Honda Civic 5 speed to carry wood from my Dad's house back in those days. I would load the car as full as possible of green split firewood (maybe a quarter cord) and then attach the 4x8 trailer and carry another quarter cord in that. When loaded like that one develops "foresight" to road conditions - "anticipatory driving" I guess you could call it.

And more than one Massachusetts driver screamed past me on the slow uptake in speed after a stoplight.

Gosh I beat that little 4 cylinder engine to death - but the car still lasted 170K miles before I totaled it in a non-wood related accident.

Joe K

[John LaVoy]

I have towed a replica Mullins since the mid 70s. The sedan has a receiver hitch that was built just for that purpose. It is a great way to carry everything you need for an extended tour.

[klawockvet]

Call Henderson in SLC.http://www.hendersonwheel.com/trailer_parts.htm They will build an axle to your specs and use 5 on 5.5 hubs. The option for EZ Lube hubs is worth the price of the upgrade. You can probably sell the Model A rear end or front end for less than the price of the axle and you will have a better set up.

[oldwoodsman]

Originally Posted by V4F

where on harbor freight is this trailer discussed above ? ...... thanks .. steve

***I like the $400 small hard-shell covered tear-drop looking one that Harbor Freight sells***

V4F here is a link to HF http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-...ler-66771.html

I have started to convert the hubs on a light trailer axle I had to 5.5" 5 lug The project is on hold now till I get back home in April from the deserts of Arizona. I had enough of the cold and snow in Minnesota. Riding the Harley in 75* weather is a heck of a lot more fun then shoveling snow at -20* thanks everybody for the input. As always the people here have great ideas, it helps a person to think through this stuff.

[V4F]

I finally found it . thank you . I like it !!

[Bill Lee/Virginia]

I am not attempting to hi-jack this thread.

I like the looks of the HF trailer too. I have been looking for a small trailer to take on overnight tours (such as the MARC National Tour this Sept) with my Cabbie since there is not much storage area in the car. However, the wheels/tires look rather small to me.

Also, the local HF has a sale at this time of 25% off any single purchase that would lower the price of the trailer to approximately $279 including sales tax.

Questions: 1. Are these small tires subject to blow-outs or subject to wheel bearing failure traveling several hours at 40 to 50 mph with trailer loaded with 200-400 lbs of cargo?

2. What is involved in materials, time and money in changing the wheels to 5 on 5-1/2 so that 19 inch Model A wheels/tires could be used?

3. Anyone ever modified wheels on this trailer or similar one to fit Model A wheels?

Thanks for your replies.

Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula

[CarlG]

Bill Lee:
I see these same tires/wheels on trailers being towed behind motorcycles and on small boat trailers all the time. Should be no problem. Shouldn't be much of a task with the right tools to make an adapter from the 4-lug to the Model A wheel. Fenders might be a different story.

[ctvpa]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I think for all the work of converting one, and not being to use it in this state, Tractor Supply has trailer axle's (that fit Model A wheels), springs, parts, fenders. And all for less time and money you will spend trying to convert one. You could probably sell the 'A' axle you have and by this for even money, and have a quality safe unit.

[klawockvet]

Questions: 1. Are these small tires subject to blow-outs or subject to wheel bearing failure traveling several hours at 40 to 50 mph with trailer loaded with 200-400 lbs of cargo?

If the diameter of the tire is half of the model A tire the bearing and tire will be going twice as fast. When you are going 40 to 50 in the model A a tire half that size will be going 80 to a 100. If the tires are a third of the diameter they will be going over a hundred. Trailer tires are rated for no more than 60 or 65 and all the new Chinese trailer tires are basically junk. The bearing situation is even worse. If you are dead set on a HF trailer I would recommend at the very least putting the larger Model A tires on it and replacing the bearings and races with Timken's. I wouldn't pull a HF trailer on the road period, especially behind a nice car.

[Tom Wesenberg]

8" wheels and tires only belong on yard carts pulled by the lawn tractor. I'm even thinking of changing the 12" tires on my light boat trailer to 13" car tires. I have a single place snowmobile trailer with 8" tires, and I was constantly changing flats and blowouts, and I like to travel 55 to 60 MPH in my modern car. Driving faster than 60 just wastes gas, and in case of an accident it lowers your chance of survival.

After several flats with the 8" wheels on my snowmobile trailer, I finally installed the rear axle from a junk VW Rabbit with 13" wheels. End of flats!

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Tom,

Thanks so much for prudent advice & I agree 100%.

We live in an area where fishing is great, & not a once or twice a year event -- years ago, caught enough fish to feed the entire neighborhood with filets -- caught 350 extra large goggle perch before noon in Atchafalaya Spillway prior to noon on live Mississippi River Shrimp we caught in shrimp boxes -- not to mention salt water fishing, with our fishing galore -- serious fishing -- always pulled homemade wooden boat with a 1930 Model A Coupe with a Model A homemade boat trailer made with a Model A front axle & Model A 30 " wheels.

This is what the original person's question is asking for -- a trailer made with a Model A axle -- so simple.

Roadsides even back then & today are always full of factory made boat trailers with 8" &12" blown out wheels & junk trailer parts & burnt bearings -- wall to wall uninformed jackasses standing on the side of the road who never made it to the boat launch -- in my opinion, these idiots never had an idea of the value of a good boat trailer made with Model A front axles.

Since 1960, 54 years ago , my rebuilt boat trailer made from an earlier 1932 boat trailer was made from a Model A front axle has served me well with no bearing failures & no small tire failures.

Just never had time to be stranded on the side of the road at 5:00 a.m. with the advertised Harbor Freight, J. C. Whitney & other crap trailer set ups -- we are "serious" fisherman -- in my opinion, similar to then gentleman's initial question -- do it once -- do it right -- who has time to sit on the side of the road to wait for a wrecker while eating one's fishing lunch, usually Vienna Sausage & crackers or left overs -- Henry Ford always did it right ............ but so few listened.

[oldwoodsman]

Originally Posted by Bill Lee/Virginia

I am not attempting to hi-jack this thread.

I like the looks of the HF trailer too. I have been looking for a small trailer to take on overnight tours (such as the MARC National Tour this Sept) with my Cabbie since there is not much storage area in the car. However, the wheels/tires look rather small to me.

Also, the local HF has a sale at this time of 25% off any single purchase that would lower the price of the trailer to approximately $279 including sales tax.

Questions: 1. Are these small tires subject to blow-outs or subject to wheel bearing failure traveling several hours at 40 to 50 mph with trailer loaded with 200-400 lbs of cargo?

2. What is involved in materials, time and money in changing the wheels to 5 on 5-1/2 so that 19 inch Model A wheels/tires could be used?

3. Anyone ever modified wheels on this trailer or similar one to fit Model A wheels?

Thanks for your replies.

Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula

Bill.... to answer your question on the conversion, when I get home in April I can take some pics to post of the conversion from 4 lug to 5 x 5.5". I had the older trailer axle and springs already on hand. To convert I used a vertical mill, a lathe, and a welder. If I didn't have the axle and springs already, it would have been more practical to purchase them already set up. It didn't take much material, just some I/4" plate steel for a 8" disk. I've made other trailers here in MN. and the registration for a homemade is not a problem.