The Ford Barn

Dtolson · 08-01-2013, 10:34 PM

I am trying to replace the rubber in my rear motor mounts (29 pickup) and cannot get the mount off the motor. I removed all the bolts and have even tried to raise the motor but they wont budge. Any suggestions.

Steve Plucker · 08-01-2013, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dtolson

I am trying to replace the rubber in my rear motor mounts (29 pickup) and cannot get the mount off the motor. I removed all the bolts and have even tried to raise the motor but they wont budge. Any suggestions.

So you have removed the six bolts, 3 on each side, which holds the motor mounts to the frame...and you have removed the four bolts, two on each side, from the motor mount which is attached to the flywheel housing.

Take a rubber mallet and start pounding it off.

Hmmmmm, unless someone welded it on it should just pop off of there because there is nothing more which is holding them to the frame or the flywheel housing.

WARNING: This pertains to the original set-up and not the aftermarket type rear mounts for which I know nothing about.

By the way...You did remove the bolts for the front motor mount didn't you?

Pluck

Dtolson · 08-01-2013, 10:45 PM

Is it possible they could be welded? I didn't see weld. Could the frame be that tight or do I need to just lay into it with the mallet?

Steve Plucker · 08-01-2013, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dtolson

Is it possible they could be welded? I didn't see weld. Could the frame be that tight or do I need to just lay into it with the mallet?

I would use the mallet...I hope no one welded those suckers in there. Installing them like you are doing, or wanting to do, can be a pain in the butt.

Make sure the new rubber pads are the correct ones...some suppliers provide farby pads that have proven to be to thick and talk about a B*&^% to install.

Pluck

ba49 · 08-01-2013, 10:53 PM

I used a frame spreader from Snyder's on mine and they came out and went back in pretty easily.

Dtolson · 08-02-2013, 06:46 AM

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So all three mounts have to be disconnected to replace the rubbers in the rear mounts?

Keith True · 08-02-2013, 07:04 AM

One side at a a time,and you may have to put a jack between the engine/trans and the frame to bow the frame just a bit.Did you get the steel sleeves out of the three bolt holes on the frame side?

Dtolson · 08-02-2013, 09:03 AM

I did. I am going to try again by spreading the frame a little. Once I do I hope to be able to slide the old rubber out and the new in without removing the bolts to the motor. Is this possible?

V4F · 08-02-2013, 09:21 AM

damn hard !

Bill in NJ · 08-02-2013, 09:25 AM

I would take the rear motor mounts and check to see if they are CRACKED when you replace the rubbers.

Dtolson · 08-02-2013, 09:39 AM

I noticed the mount on the driver's side did have a crack on the frame rail end.

Keith True · 08-02-2013, 09:50 AM

The engine side bolts NEED to come out.The mount has to come out of there.The mount rubbers have molded sleeves that stick into the frame rails.The rubber has to be set in place,and the mount slid into place over it.And as Bill says,look for cracks.Sometimes they're diamonded,I guess that's the way to describe it.They will sag and take a set over time.They are easily straightened with a three pound hammer.If they are cracked you can be pretty sure they need a beating to bring them back.It is not a hard job,the hardest part to me is preventing scratches to the fenders while doing it.

08-01-2013, 10:34 PM	#1
Dtolson Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: KY Posts: 81	Rear motor mounts I am trying to replace the rubber in my rear motor mounts (29 pickup) and cannot get the mount off the motor. I removed all the bolts and have even tried to raise the motor but they wont budge. Any suggestions.

08-01-2013, 10:45 PM	#3
Dtolson Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: KY Posts: 81	Re: Rear motor mounts Is it possible they could be welded? I didn't see weld. Could the frame be that tight or do I need to just lay into it with the mallet?

08-01-2013, 10:53 PM	#5
ba49 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sheffield Lake, Ohio Posts: 137	Re: Rear motor mounts I used a frame spreader from Snyder's on mine and they came out and went back in pretty easily.

08-02-2013, 06:46 AM	#6
Dtolson Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: KY Posts: 81	Re: Rear motor mounts Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) So all three mounts have to be disconnected to replace the rubbers in the rear mounts?

08-02-2013, 07:04 AM	#7
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,989	Re: Rear motor mounts One side at a a time,and you may have to put a jack between the engine/trans and the frame to bow the frame just a bit.Did you get the steel sleeves out of the three bolt holes on the frame side?

08-02-2013, 09:03 AM	#8
Dtolson Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: KY Posts: 81	Re: Rear motor mounts I did. I am going to try again by spreading the frame a little. Once I do I hope to be able to slide the old rubber out and the new in without removing the bolts to the motor. Is this possible?

08-02-2013, 09:21 AM	#9
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	Re: Rear motor mounts damn hard ! __________________ V4f

08-02-2013, 09:25 AM	#10
Bill in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,159	Re: Rear motor mounts I would take the rear motor mounts and check to see if they are CRACKED when you replace the rubbers.

08-02-2013, 09:39 AM	#11
Dtolson Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: KY Posts: 81	Re: Rear motor mounts I noticed the mount on the driver's side did have a crack on the frame rail end.

08-02-2013, 09:50 AM	#12
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,989	Re: Rear motor mounts The engine side bolts NEED to come out.The mount has to come out of there.The mount rubbers have molded sleeves that stick into the frame rails.The rubber has to be set in place,and the mount slid into place over it.And as Bill says,look for cracks.Sometimes they're diamonded,I guess that's the way to describe it.They will sag and take a set over time.They are easily straightened with a three pound hammer.If they are cracked you can be pretty sure they need a beating to bring them back.It is not a hard job,the hardest part to me is preventing scratches to the fenders while doing it.