The Ford Barn

BarracudaBoy · 02-05-2013, 03:06 PM

I'll just leave this here....

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...762858&msite=w

MikeK · 02-05-2013, 04:18 PM

When my hour meter reaches ______

miss victoria · 02-05-2013, 04:32 PM

I have steering mast holders for the tiny tach. $35.00 + $5.80 usps.

hardtimes · 02-05-2013, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarracudaBoy

I'll just leave this here....

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...762858&msite=w

When oil prices......go down

!

Bruce Adams · 02-05-2013, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarracudaBoy

I'll just leave this here....

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...762858&msite=w

And your point is???
parrticularly among Model A owners with no oil filters and many using non-detergent oil.

1937pickup · 02-05-2013, 05:51 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I quit the 3K oil change long ago on our grocery getters.

Louis · 02-05-2013, 07:35 PM

I change oil in my 31 coupe when the oil turns black, some times at 300 miles, some times at 450, on my newer cars I change it at around 6ooo-7000 miles, aprox. twice a year, you gotta give your 80 year old car a little TLC.

Barry B./ Ma. · 02-05-2013, 09:04 PM

I have 2 Model A's, The coupes oil gets changed at around 1000 miles and the roadster between 300 to 500. they both have rebuilt engines with around 8000 miles. For some reason the Roadsters oil gets dirty early so it gets changed. I always use 15/40 Carquest.

columbiA · 02-05-2013, 10:48 PM

I change the oil on both my A,s every 1,000 miles-no filter.The oil still looks clean on dip stick,but I would rather not wait until oil looks dirty before changing.I know I could go longer between changes,but I have also been able to drive over 75,000 miles on a used engine that had many miles on it before I got it & it was still running good when I sold the car.If looked after & driven sensibly,babbit will last a long time.

wensum · 02-06-2013, 02:52 AM

I restored a Model A in 1966 and did a considerable mileage in it, much of it at relatively high speeds 50-60mph.
I don't recall changing the oil, just topping it up and then we used re-refined oil which was basically discarded oil from garages and fleets that was refined again.
Never any problems with bearings etc. And when you strip down an old motor and see the extent of the sludge, it's amazing that they kept running

gweilbaker · 02-06-2013, 08:18 AM

My oil is in a constant state of change, leak a quart, add a quart.

Randy in Illinois · 02-06-2013, 09:42 AM

Once a year. rather it needs it or not. non-detergent 40w better oils now days than back then.

mhsprecher · 02-06-2013, 09:48 AM

This is a good link and relevant to our modern cars. On Model A's with no filter and without the modern tolerances, I am not so sure. I didn't see anything about length of time. It used to be 6 months or X,000 miles. Has that changed, too?

mhsprecher · 02-06-2013, 09:50 AM

It may make sense to get an oil analysis, too, depending upon the cost. Has anyone done this?

Tom Wesenberg · 02-06-2013, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhsprecher

It may make sense to get an oil analysis, too, depending upon the cost. Has anyone done this?

My guess is an oil change would be cheaper.

Ross/Kzoo · 02-06-2013, 10:32 AM

My BIL did tha twith his farm machinery. As an ex-Navy mechanic he did it religiously and and found that his JD had metal fragments in the oil. Couldn't do anything about the bearings until afeter the harvest. It didn't last that long.

Old182 · 02-06-2013, 08:35 PM

I agree with Tom. Don Garlits once said that cranks are cheaper than engines, bearings are cheaper than cranks, and oil's cheaper than bearings. Sooo, just change the oil. Modern oils are infinitely better than what Henry had (excluding non-detergents of course; they should never be used) with antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors, detergent/dispersants, blah, blah. If your oil's turning dark it means the dispersants are doing their job of keeping crap (particles of combustion, etc.) in suspension so they can be drained. It's probably best to change the oil at the end of the touring season just before storage so that your crankcase has fresh additives in it. That way, if you start the engine during storage for short periods, say to charge the battery, the water and fuel dilution that will find its way into the oil can be neutralized. With year-old oil, additives will be depleted and may not do the good things they should. $0.02.

02-05-2013, 03:06 PM	#1
BarracudaBoy BANNED Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Clarksville, TN Posts: 147	Stirring the "When to change oil" pot I'll just leave this here.... http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...762858&msite=w

02-05-2013, 04:18 PM	#2
MikeK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windy City Posts: 2,919	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot When my hour meter reaches ______

02-05-2013, 05:51 PM	#6
1937pickup Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 586	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I quit the 3K oil change long ago on our grocery getters.

02-05-2013, 07:35 PM	#7
Louis Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Marietta GA. Posts: 647	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot I change oil in my 31 coupe when the oil turns black, some times at 300 miles, some times at 450, on my newer cars I change it at around 6ooo-7000 miles, aprox. twice a year, you gotta give your 80 year old car a little TLC. __________________ I've suffered a great many Catastrophe's in my life.....most of them never Happened.

02-05-2013, 09:04 PM	#8
Barry B./ Ma. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southbridge, Ma. Posts: 1,614	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot I have 2 Model A's, The coupes oil gets changed at around 1000 miles and the roadster between 300 to 500. they both have rebuilt engines with around 8000 miles. For some reason the Roadsters oil gets dirty early so it gets changed. I always use 15/40 Carquest.

02-05-2013, 10:48 PM	#9
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot I change the oil on both my A,s every 1,000 miles-no filter.The oil still looks clean on dip stick,but I would rather not wait until oil looks dirty before changing.I know I could go longer between changes,but I have also been able to drive over 75,000 miles on a used engine that had many miles on it before I got it & it was still running good when I sold the car.If looked after & driven sensibly,babbit will last a long time.

02-06-2013, 02:52 AM	#10
wensum Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 444	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot I restored a Model A in 1966 and did a considerable mileage in it, much of it at relatively high speeds 50-60mph. I don't recall changing the oil, just topping it up and then we used re-refined oil which was basically discarded oil from garages and fleets that was refined again. Never any problems with bearings etc. And when you strip down an old motor and see the extent of the sludge, it's amazing that they kept running

02-06-2013, 08:18 AM	#11
gweilbaker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lindenhurst, IL Posts: 792	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot My oil is in a constant state of change, leak a quart, add a quart.

02-06-2013, 09:42 AM	#12
Randy in Illinois Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 193	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot Once a year. rather it needs it or not. non-detergent 40w better oils now days than back then.

02-06-2013, 09:48 AM	#13
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,817	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot This is a good link and relevant to our modern cars. On Model A's with no filter and without the modern tolerances, I am not so sure. I didn't see anything about length of time. It used to be 6 months or X,000 miles. Has that changed, too?

02-06-2013, 09:50 AM	#14
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,817	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot It may make sense to get an oil analysis, too, depending upon the cost. Has anyone done this?

02-06-2013, 10:32 AM	#16
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot My BIL did tha twith his farm machinery. As an ex-Navy mechanic he did it religiously and and found that his JD had metal fragments in the oil. Couldn't do anything about the bearings until afeter the harvest. It didn't last that long.

02-06-2013, 08:35 PM	#17
Old182 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Newburgh, NY Posts: 222	Re: Stirring the "When to change oil" pot I agree with Tom. Don Garlits once said that cranks are cheaper than engines, bearings are cheaper than cranks, and oil's cheaper than bearings. Sooo, just change the oil. Modern oils are infinitely better than what Henry had (excluding non-detergents of course; they should never be used) with antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors, detergent/dispersants, blah, blah. If your oil's turning dark it means the dispersants are doing their job of keeping crap (particles of combustion, etc.) in suspension so they can be drained. It's probably best to change the oil at the end of the touring season just before storage so that your crankcase has fresh additives in it. That way, if you start the engine during storage for short periods, say to charge the battery, the water and fuel dilution that will find its way into the oil can be neutralized. With year-old oil, additives will be depleted and may not do the good things they should. $0.02.