Master Cylinder for 1929 A Brake Conversion

[RyanB]

I am converting my 1929 standard coupe brakes to hydraulic and would like to install a dual master cylinder to make it a little safer. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on which one to use and where to buy one for a reasonable price.

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

Typical is the dual cylinder off a 67-70 drum-brake Mustang. Most all parts houses have one listed and since they are "normal", they aren't terribly expensive.

[Tom Endy]

Contact Cling's in Tempe, AZ 480-777-5904. They make hydraulic conversions for the Model A, Their master cyl kit is very well done, fits up close to the brake pedal. Very easy installation.

Tom Endy

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by RyanB

I am converting my 1929 standard coupe brakes to hydraulic and would like to install a dual master cylinder to make it a little safer. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on which one to use and where to buy one for a reasonable price.

....................










....oops, sorry!!

.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

Contact Cling's in Tempe, AZ 480-777-5904. They make hydraulic conversions for the Model A, Their master cyl kit is very well done, fits up close to the brake pedal. Very easy installation.

Tom Endy

Be sure your first question is does his kit use a dual master cylinder? If you go to a single master cylinder I would just go with the '39-'48 Ford.

Charlie Stephens

[miss victoria]

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I make and sell a battery box master cly combo, bolt on, duel stage. $350.00+shipping

[RyanB]

Thanks everyone for the information. I am building everything myself on this restoration so I am not using a kit and will use Bill Lee's suggestion.

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by RyanB

Thanks everyone for the information. I am building everything myself on this restoration so I am not using a kit and will use Bill Lee's suggestion.

Restoration is when you put things back the way they were. If you substitute something of different design, it is a modification, not a restoration. You are building a modified vehicle and removing stock parts. In this case something that is immediately visible on a casual walk-by.

[jkeesey]

Not necessarily easily noticeable on a casual walk by MikeK. I ran a setup for a customer where the master cylinder was completely hidden and the brake lines ran the same route as the original rods so on a casual walk by it looked normal but upon in depth inspection everything was there.

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by MikeK

Restoration is when you put things back the way they were. If you substitute something of different design, it is a modification, not a restoration. You are building a modified vehicle and removing stock parts. In this case something that is immediately visible on a casual walk-by.

So because he's putting hydraulic brakes on it, it's no longer a restoration? That seems a little far. Very few people these days are restoring cars back exactly like they were coming off the assembly line. So if someone uses grade 8 body bolts...it's no longer a restoration? Or if someone adds an oil filter...no longer a restoration? I guess if someone uses Lucas tires...it's not a restoration because they aren't the original tread pattern. turn signals, seat belts, halogen bulbs, ect ect.

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by Jordan

So because he's putting hydraulic brakes on it, it's no longer a restoration? That seems a little far. Very few people these days are restoring cars back exactly like they were coming off the assembly line. So if someone uses grade 8 body bolts...it's no longer a restoration? Or if someone adds an oil filter...no longer a restoration? I guess if someone uses Lucas tires...it's not a restoration because they aren't the original tread pattern. turn signals, seat belts, halogen bulbs, ect ect.

It is what it is. Do I have some of these mods on one of my own A's ? Yes. But that doesn't make that part a restoration. The vehicle has been modified by substitution.

A fine point car that scores 250 of 500 possible is still considered a restoration, albiet not perfect. If that car had juice brakes it wouldn't even be judged. That set of definitions would see it as a modified vehicle. If it were a substitution of lamps and a different generator, it would just loose points, and still be considered a resto.

So where do you personally draw that fine, fuzzy line? A little or a lot to the right or left of someone else's definition of resto, resto-mod, and modified vehicle? Some people consider the fine-point JS extreme, some think they don't go far enough! And then there's the MARC "Touring Class" which is a much looser set of definitions.

The fine point JS has their set of definitions
The MARC Touring Class has theirs
You have your set
I have mine.

[john in illinois]

Here is some info on mustang M/C. Note you want one for drum-drum brakes. The rear outlet-closest to pushrod-is the front brake port. Summit racing sells it for an ok price. I use this with 40 Ford rear brakes and 39 Lincoln copy front brakes.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-dual...ylinder/a/147/

Another good link. https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...ydraulicbrakes

Also lots on HAMB

Good luck,John

[miss victoria]

the outlet closest to the mounting bolts goes to the rear, also use a 1 inch bore not the 15/16 bore

[mrtexas]

Here is how I did it:

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...ydraulicbrakes

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by MikeK

...
You have yours
I have mine.

Exactly!

[Kirby1374]

Originally Posted by miss victoria

the outlet closest to the mounting bolts goes to the rear, also use a 1 inch bore not the 15/16 bore

Wow, now what to do. you are the guy that should know, I bought my battery box from you on eBay but there was also a long thread on the hamb about those mc and they deducted that the port closest to the mount is for the front. That is now how I have mine. I would Jaye to have to rerun my lines.

[miss victoria]

go to www.hot-rod.com.au/builder/brakes.html

[1931 flamingo]

mrtexas: Your install pictures answer all the questions. JMO Nice install! !
Paul in CT

[john in illinois]

I followed Dave's diagram that I got with the battery box/Mustang master cyl. I hooked up the front outlet to the front brakes. I found that I had to adjust my rear brakes very loose or they would go on before the front brakes. I used them for about a year. I looked on the internet and found the piston nearest the rod or mounting bolts is the primary piston. The back piston is the secondary and goes on after the primary is pressurized. Anyway I switched the front brakes to the back piston and now they adjust normal. .

Here is the link about Mustangs that spells this out.


http://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-dual...ylinder/a/147/

Ford trucks http://www.chtopping.com/truck.html

My 2c,John

PS Dave's products are great. Battery box,4speed f150 trans.very happy-16,000 miles

[miss victoria]

after much study ,port closest to the mounting flange rear brakes