Is it safe: Fuel Shut off in recent MAN

[Kevin in NJ]

In the most recent MAN they ran an article about slipping what looks like a refrigerator ice maker water supply shut off as a fuel shut off.

Is that safe?

You have a packing nut to get loose and extra connections mid stream.

No I am not going to put something like that in my car. It comes with a good shut off valve if it is properly restored.

Just kind of curious as some of the articles I wonder if they should not be reviewed by some technical people before printing.

[29ModelA]

I wouldn't use one...

[Rock Hornbuckle]

I would not use a gate valve to shut off gasoline, but I would use a stainless steel ball valve rated for steam pressure and chemical shut off. I know they aren't for the Model A purists, but they are 99.999% fool proof.

[2manycars]

I did not like that setup. I use a new valve in the original place, and have no leaks.

[MikeK]

Glad I'm not the only one who shuddered when I saw that article.

[msmaron]

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I think the contribution by Wiley was interesting and informative and safe. He is a master at what he does and if you have read his other articles, axle straightener, brakes, and more you would see how informative. We may not approve but it was a great article.

[Rock Hornbuckle]

I would like to have the chemical and pressure specs on the valve in the article prior to passing judgement.

[JSark61]

Looked like a fire waiting to happen. ???? Dont understand why that would even be considered

[Al 29Tudor]

I was surprised and kind of disappointed they would print that in the Model A News as well. When my fuel leaked I fixed the float valve and installed a new shutoff under the tank where it belongs. Every time I come home or stop for more than a few minutes I simply reach down and turn off the fuel. I'm not likely to do that if it is under the hood. I think we all agree.
Al Leach

[joe plumber]

Originally Posted by Rock Hornbuckle

I would not use a gate valve to shut off gasoline, but I would use a stainless steel ball valve rated for steam pressure and chemical shut off. I know they aren't for the Model A purists, but they are 99.999% fool proof.

I wouldn't use a gate valve for anything ,most worthless p o s valve made .Most ball valve are rated for water ,oil, gas .Gas being natural gas .The good full port ball valves have W O G on them .Most all ball valves will handle low pressure steam ..There are ball valves that are rated for gasoline .

[Rich in Tucson]

Seen several of these in use for a long time with no leaks or problems, but I prefer to fix the one on the tank. More popular around here is a ball valve sold for natural gas use that can be spliced inside. Some prefer to leave the old leaking valve in place and just splice in the new valve, transferring their leak from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment, and call it an upgrade(?).

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

For 7 years I ran a petcock type valve on Minerva with no problems. At the hardware I found a petcock type valve that fit perfectly in place of the original valve. Never a problem with the packing from using it with gas. I only had to open it 2 turns. The dealer supplied stainless in tank filter fit it properly. (This filter is a must for anyone.) The valve only cost $4.79! Contrary to popular opinion, I'm NOT rich. Bill W.

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I'm with Al, one reason I wouldn't care for a mid-late 1931 A, opening the hood would be a pain every time you wanted to shut off the fuel.

I had a few late 31's, and I agree, that is was inconvenient to shut off the fuel.

[Kurt in NJ]

I have one of those needle valve shutoffs on a welder, the passages are small, 1/8 drill to clean out, about 5 turns open-close,a pain to use ---to me on a model A it is another modification done instead of a proper restoration, although I can see the appeal of the electric valve on a late 31.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

I have one of those needle valve shutoffs on a welder, the passages are small, 1/8 drill to clean out, about 5 turns open-close,a pain to use ---to me on a model A it is another modification done instead of a proper restoration, although I can see the appeal of the electric valve on a late 31.

Yes I agree!!


One thing I have alwas wondered is what the cost would be to have a couple of tapered reamers made (--or found) that were slightly oversized from what the original size of the barrel valve is on the original Model-A fuel valve. It seems to me there is market for someone to have oversized (+ .001-.003) valves CNCed where the original valve housing could be reamed oversized to remove the scratches & gouges that are in the housing caused by rust from the gas tank.

[Chris in WNC]

I have known and trusted Wiley for many years and was very surprised to see him promoting what looked like sort of a mickey-mouse setup.

if your shutoff is below the tank and in good condition you don't need a backup.

if you have an indented firewall '31, there is a 90 degree ball valve kit available to provide a good shutoff in the fuel line.

Bratton's repro shutoffs under the tank work very well, but the ones for the indented firewall do not........

[Richard Wilson]

Maybe I am missing something here. The valve in question apears to use the same fittings/collars as on the "safe" reproduction gas lines that we buy and use from Snyders , Brattons, etc. with no leaks. Is the problem with the type of valve or that it is in-line? I have seen Model A's with similar inline non-Ford valves that have been run for many years with no problem. I agree it would not be my first choice of repair in this day and age of easy to obtain reproduction parts but do not see what the fuss is about.