Torque tube seal-need a quick fix

[RalphM]

Oil from my rear axle is migrating to the transmission. So I've got the rear axle out of my AV8, I was going to put an aftermarket seal kit in, but the maker of the seal is backed up and I'm not sure when it will be ready.
The weather is just too nice here for my car to be sitting in the garage.
I'm putting it back together this weekend, come hell or high water. But I'm wondering is there something I can do to at least slow down the oil flow.
Like a piece of rubber with a center hole as a gasket or maybe a solid gasket, with a cutout for the pinion shaft?
Anyone delt with this?

[RalphM]

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/004...g?v=1342453475

Not sure if this worked, but here's the seal I'm planning to use.

[Andy]

You might replace the seal on the trans end. I posted a quickie tool to get the bearing sleeve out a short time ago. The seal come out the bell end.

[john in illinois]

Tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXLmcLBMa2A

John

[rotorwrench]

Vern Tardel and maybe others have made a tube type baffle that can be installed in the torque tube that dams the oil in the tube. When cars have a rake up in the back with the big & little tire combo, the oil will flow that way. The baffle will dam it up but you have to park up on a slope now and then to get it to drain back into the rear axle housing. Vern advertises his for $55. You can see it on his web site.

[JM 35 Sedan]

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Is your suspension heavily raked towards the front, meaning the front end is much lower than the rear?

[xix32]

Are you sure it's rear axle lube getting in the trans. ? That's a long way for lube to run uphill to get in the trans. I thought that front torque tube seal, just behind the speedo gear, was there to keep the trans lube from running down the drive shaft to the rear end.
There isn't any seal on the back of the trans, so trans lube can get to the "U" joint.

[RalphM]

Yes there is a rake, so running down hill, even if I replace the front tube seal, the tube will still be full of oil.

[Andy]

What is the diameter where the seal would ride. The seals I have seen run on a 6x6 coupler.

[RalphM]

The driveshaft is a hollow aftermarket one that speedway sells, it was thier coupler, I have measurement written down, but don't remember off the top of my head.

[RalphM]

Looked at Verns tube insert, no available at this time, but it gives me a good idea how to build it.
It's going to be in the 50's soon and I've got to get the car ready to roll ASAP.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by RalphM

Looked at Verns tube insert, no available at this time, but it gives me a good idea how to build it.
It's going to be in the 50's soon and I've got to get the car ready to roll ASAP.

I thought Vern Tardel had pretty much shut his business down and sold his collection of early Ford V-8 parts, but it's possible that he is still selling some of the innovative things he designed/developed and sold in the past.
I think I saw a post here, or maybe on the HAMB, about different banjo seals that were commercially available as well as some home brew type fixes. Maybe do some searches for those posts.
I could invision a thin sheetmetal piece that would look like the gasket normally used at the tt and banjo flange junction on its OD, but have a reduced ID that comes up close to the pinion spline, and has a formed channel that would direct oil back to the lower return hole in the banjo flange. This might not work as well as an actual lip seal riding against a coupler, BUT it may help stop some of that oil from flowing up into the torque tube on a temporary basis until you can come up with or buy something else that works better later on down the road. Just a thought.

[V8COOPMAN]

Bruce's Rod Shop right here in good ol' Texas has your solution. Link below! DD

http://brucesrodshop.myshopify.com/p...ube-seal-plate

[Andy]

Just make sure if you buy something it fits the shaft size you have.

[my4dv8]

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183772
Sorry to hear you still have a problem from your last thread in November , but there was some solid ideas in that thread.

[RalphM]

Well, the reason I still have the same problem since November is Winter. I haven't been able to drive. Just took it apart two weeks ago to get the measurements go the Bruces rod shop fix, they are the ones that are backed up with my part to fix this. If I put this back together I probably won't take it back apart till October. The driving season here is too short to be having a car up on jack stands.
I'm just looking to do something right now, without waiting for a special part, that will get me on the road by Sunday.

[Bassman/NZ]

Can you maybe make a sheetmetal piece like the gasket, but with a center hole only just big enough for the pinion shaft, and shape a channel from the pinion shaft hole to the oil return hole, maybe with the ball of a ball-pein hammer? It would be crude, but it would return 90% of the oil back to the banjo through the oil-return hole.....

[Bassman/NZ]

Man, if I had an AV8.... oh yeah, I do,.... I'd be moving to warmer climes so I could drive it all year round.... oh yeah, I do..... sorry, I couldn't help myself...

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Bassman/NZ

Can you maybe make a sheetmetal piece like the gasket, but with a center hole only just big enough for the pinion shaft, and shape a channel from the pinion shaft hole to the oil return hole, maybe with the ball of a ball-pein hammer? It would be crude, but it would return 90% of the oil back to the banjo through the oil-return hole.....

Great idea Bassman!! Darn, I wish I had thought of that first, because if I had, I probably would have said about the same thing in Post #12 earlier today

[deuce_roadster]

At the end of every driving day, park the car with the front wheels on those ramps for changing the oil until you fix it correctly.