How did you attach your manifold heater?

[PRG999]

I purchased the snyder's manifold heater. The kit comes with an attachment set up that secures to a exhaust manifold bolt. Was just curious how people attach the heater with out using the set up that comes with the kit.
I just don't like the idea of using the set up they sell with it.

Thanks
PG

[Terry, NJ]

It's only an airbox so the hookup isn't real important. By hookup, I assume you mean attach to the manifold. I believe that they're only selling a cover, not a manifold. Correct me if I'm wrong. The old aftermarket heater kits included a manifold, cover, and a door to be fitted into the firewall. Anyway, instead of cutting a hole in the fire wall, you can use a piece of flex tubing and direct the heat down to the floor board. It's easier to cut the hole in the wood floorboard than the firewall.
Terry

[C26Pinelake]

Why don't you like the setup that came with it?

[Roger V]

Without going to Snyder's catalog, I'm assuming your heater is the type that is used in conjunction with the stock exhaust manifold. I attached mine with a band clamp at the front and the rear. Of course it doesn't look period but I don't have to open my hood to show it. It's not as warm as an Autolite nor Ottwell but takes the chill off on on cooler day without causing more heat during the majority of the drive season. IMO, there isn't enough room to run a flex tube off the end to the floorboard. FWIW, I have one for sale in the swap section, including clamps. This is a second one as I have another on our coupe.

[PRG999]

Thank you for the responses. Yes I should have said it was the manifold cover they have for sale.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Some just secure them with 2 pieces of Baling Wire--EASY on, EASY off!
Bill Farmer

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi PG,

That heater attachment you mention looks somewhat troublesome.

1. My 1930 Town Sedan came with an old aftermarket "Auto-Lite" cast iron manifold heater which was cast in two (2) full length longitudinal halves.

2. It was designed to fit on top of a standard Model A exhaust manifold; however, as designed and as cast, when positioned in place, it can easily move slightly forward or rearward. (Pictures of some are sometimes on e-bay).

3. The two halves are bolted together with two horizontal 3/16" diameter bolts, one near front and one near rear.

4. The former owner had this heater clamped with two (2) 5/8" wide galvanized band with holes, (pipe hanger bands), which passed under the intake manifold and passed vertically over the "Auto Lite" heater, with both upper galvanized band ends bolted with 1/4" bolts passing through the pre-punched band holes.

5. In traveling over back roads and railroad tracks, it would always slightly slide back & forth, become loose, and rattled with a slight noise no matter how tightly it was positioned and clamped because these clamps did not prevent fore and aft movement.

6. I later bought a 1" wide by 1/8" thick aluminum bar, passed it under the "front" curved underside of the intake manifold, and in forming a bent "U" shape, I allowed this bar to extend upwards and forward at about a 45 degree angle at both sides of the heater, extending upwards passed both the left & right ends of the "front" horizontal cross bolt.

7. With the heater carefully positioned all the way rearward, so it "most importantly" could "NOT" move or slide rearward further, I marked and drilled a 3/16" hole through both tops of the "U" shaped left and right aluminum bar in order to achieve a "tight" fit.

8. As such, while being securely clamped downwards in a position where it could not move upwards or sideways, and could "NOT" move forward or rearward, it always stays totally motionless without rattling all winter.

9. In the Spring it is easy to remove the attaching horizontal cross heater bolt, slightly opening the "U" shaped bar and remove same; and lastly remove the heater.

10. If doors and side windows are sealed, and the windshield is well sealed, these heaters can work quite well.

11. Just in case some similar cast iron manifold heaters do not have a front horizontal cross clamping bolt, holes could easily be drilled through the cast iron heater to provide a horizontal bolt for securely attaching the 1" x 1/8" aluminum 45 degree "U" shaped bar.

Hope this helps.

[Big hammer]

My tudor came with an ottwell heater, driving it every day to school it didn't help much!
Boy it was fun driving in snow,ice,and salt :-( and telling my riders DONT breathe on the windshield! Also I learned to have it in the gear I would leave in, or it would take two hands to move the gear shift! We never tried wool blankets and heated bricks, we where tougher back then lol

[PRG999]

HL
That's very helpful. I can try to create that as well.

Thanks

PG

[1929]

I used a flexible Fernco coupling from Home Depot.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

My tudor came with an ottwell heater, driving it every day to school it didn't help much!
Boy it was fun driving in snow,ice,and salt :-( and telling my riders DONT breathe on the windshield! Also I learned to have it in the gear I would leave in, or it would take two hands to move the gear shift! We never tried wool blankets and heated bricks, we where tougher back then lol

Just what fun is there driving in salt as you watch your investment rust away? Wayne

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I added a computer case fan, over the outlet in the car, about DOUBLED the warm air volume & kept PIZZA HOT!
Bill Warm

[bnchief]

Thin crust or thick?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by bnchief

Thin crust or thick?

Chief,
Thick Crust/Extra Sauce/Canadian Bacon/Italian Sausage/a Little Pepperoni/Pineapple. I'm NOT on a diet & without a jack, I can still SHINNY under the full length of Vermin, except for that Old Square trans plug
Bill Hungry

[bnchief]

Remove the plug stick your finger in the hole like the dutch boy and put the plug back when you are safely by.