Cooling system help needed

[bmwillia]

Originally Posted by chap52

I agree with a radiator flush treatment and, filling to just above the baffles and no more than a 3# pressure cap.
With the older Model A's a contributor to overheating was that trusty (?) timing lever. How is the timing with your engine? Does the distributor advance when you rev it?
Just my 2 cents worth...keep the change... Chap

I will search Old Henry's block flushing method and try that.

I pulled the radiator last night and will take it to the shop this morning.

I have also wondered if timing was an issue leading to this problem. How do I know if the dist. is advancing? I'll admit I am very ignorant when it comes to timing and advance.

The reason I have wondered about timing is that at idle, I get a consistent "pop" from the exhaust and it is especially pronounced while shifting between 1st and 2nd when the clutch is pressed and the load is removed from the engine. Could these two things be related?

By the way, you guys are great! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!

[Karl]

Originally Posted by bmwillia

I didn't think the 33 had thermostats from the factory. Not arguing, I was just unaware.

You're right they didn't have them in 33 but should have and Ford corrected that in 34 (even if they were probably to low at 150F) .

As mentioned previously they (well at least mine) will puke if overfilled simply due to thermal expansion. Its happy running level may be lower than you think.

Karl

[Karl]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

33 .s have t/stats
Lawrie

Sorry I have put him wrong in my last post -I thought it was only 34's
Always nice to learn something ! Karl

[drezin]

I went through all you are with my 35 five window. A new core solved the problem. 80 yr. old cores dont cut it especialy with newer pumps. I just cover the cores cold.

[russcc]

Right on with just filling to the top of the cores. Water seeks it's own level in the system. I may have missed it somewhere in the post. Is the radiator original, was cleaned and flow tested. I have seen mice nests in the radiator tanks, and similar debris in the heads of stored engines.

[flatford8]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by bmwillia

I will search Old Henry's block flushing method and try that.

I pulled the radiator last night and will take it to the shop this morning.

I have also wondered if timing was an issue leading to this problem. How do I know if the dist. is advancing? I'll admit I am very ignorant when it comes to timing and advance.

The reason I have wondered about timing is that at idle, I get a consistent "pop" from the exhaust and it is especially pronounced while shifting between 1st and 2nd when the clutch is pressed and the load is removed from the engine. Could these two things be related?

By the way, you guys are great! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!

Popping out the exhaust means a plug is firing when the exhaust valve is still open.....cross firing in the cap or between plug wires.....or firing order isn’t right....Mark

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by bmwillia

I will search Old Henry's block flushing method and try that.

I pulled the radiator last night and will take it to the shop this morning.

I have also wondered if timing was an issue leading to this problem. How do I know if the dist. is advancing? I'll admit I am very ignorant when it comes to timing and advance.

The reason I have wondered about timing is that at idle, I get a consistent "pop" from the exhaust and it is especially pronounced while shifting between 1st and 2nd when the clutch is pressed and the load is removed from the engine. Could these two things be related?

By the way, you guys are great! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!

Your not really showing any signs of overheating, so most likely not the issue. There is an adjust on the side of the distributor, but it is somewhat trial and error unless you establish a timing mark to check it against.

The timing is also controlled by the points being set correctly.

[Floyd]

I like "BMWILLIA" , the original poster (OP) and here is why. He came to this forum with a question about a problem he is experiencing and was clear in laying out the situation. He has studied the various advices and "opinions" presented. He has followed up with answers to our questions.
He then set out on a logical process to identify and isolate and hopefully cure the problem.
Doesn't happen all the time.
Hopefully we haven't failed him. That would be bad.

[aussie merc]

Hi im with "chap 42" on this check your timing my advance played up intermittantly sticking [not fully advancing] and boy did it reek havoc with the temp and a real cow to workout But dont discount any of the other suggestions as they all ring true. PS Keep us up to date its always good to here it worked out for you and what caused it

[bmwillia]

Here is the latest update:

Pulled the radiator and brought it to the local shop. They are looking into it. In the mean time, I am flushing the block. Have the driver side soaking in some rust kill/simple green. Ran out of time yesterday to get the passenger side soaking. Will drain the driver side this weekend, pull the water pumps and flush with a water hose and start the passenger side soak. I also have the Greyhound cap rebuilt with a kit from Mac's. It looks like a much better set up than the one I had.

I have emailed Skip to see about his 3lb overflow check valve but have not heard back yet. will probably have to call him.

After reading FlatFord8's post I'm going to take a look at my plug wires and make sure I don't have any crossed up as far as firing order.

Once I get the radiator back, I'll put it all back together and run it and see what happens.

[JSeery]

Brad, are you working on adding some thermostats?

[bmwillia]

I have looked for some, but the only ones I have found made like the 33-34 ones are for the Model A. They are 150 degree stats. Not sure if those will work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JSeery]

IMO you need at least 180-185 deg or even 190 deg. You about have to use the modern style thermostats or the inline ones by (not sure of the name, LOL). The second photo is the more common way to locate them, or us a sleeve inside the hose and a second clamp.

[bmwillia]

I have a 1935 motor with the pumps attached to the front of the heads so your second photo is not an option.

I'll keep looking for option 1.

[demingboy]

Hi , have been reading this forum about overheating problems. Also older dated forums here about heat.
I finally saw where the 3pd pressure release thing went. Location Was not mentioned previously in 2013 ending date forum.
Anyhow i just purchased a 1941 super deluxe with a 1951 flathead in it. Darn thing is pretty neat to drive. I have the problem where it can sit and run, come up to temp and be just fine. Temp being 180. Should mention it seems to have a newer type distributor with a vacuum from carb advance.
If you drive it after a bit it pukes water out the overflow, quite a bit actually. It has new pumps, thermostats and water hoses installed from previous owner.
I suspect the radiator may be the problem
as it is the one that has the space in the middle and looks older.
My 1st problem is they do not show one listed my size. It is like 27 tall, 19 wide with double outlets top and bottom. Radiator guy might be able to re rod it but not sure till I get it to him. Would rather just buy new.
I am going to try the deflector idea from earlier post, mayb out of cardboard 1st to see what happens.
Other idea is, Can I just plug the overflow tube for now?
New to flatheads but its gonna be fun.
I guess to summarize my questions as I rambled on there a little
1. Can I pinch overflow pipe closed
2. Should I maybe get different water pumps
3. Where can I find the tall skinny radiator?
Anyhow thanks for your patience

[JSeery]

NO experience with these, just know they exist.

Robert Shewman
PO Box 163
Kimberton, PA 19442
Email: [email protected]

[Lawrie]

T/stats are easy to do , get a set of modern ones from the store ,get a short length of SS tube the same diameter as the inside of the rad hose,tig weld the stats to the tube ,machine off the excess flange and just push them up into the top hoses.
let me know if you want a pic
Lawrie

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by bmwillia

I have a 1935 motor with the pumps attached to the front of the heads so your second photo is not an option.

I'll keep looking for option 1.

Why is the second photo not an option?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Why is the second photo not an option?

I had the same thought flatjack, but I'm not that familiar with the in-head pumps. If the hoses are the same size (or close) it should work the same.

[Graeme / New Zealand]

When I had my 46 I put some of that powdered stuff ( was Motorcraft) in the rad and run if for a while it bubbled and foamed and overflowed for a while but it cleaned out the crud and you could eventually see nice copper down the radiator throat. no problems after that.

GB