Hydraulic brakes

[Pickupman]

I'm confused How does this answer the question?

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

been a field mechanic forty years,I always looked for a shady spot to work..always felt a feller who found a shade tree to be smarter than the fool who works in the direct sun.

[daveymc29]

If using silicon fluid be aware that the stop light switches may not be compatible. I just went through that with my delivery with 42 master cylinder. No brake lights so I chaecked the switch. Bought a new one and it has a warning in the box, "Not compatible with silicone brake fluid." (Or something close to those words.) It works but I know not like the old ones and regular DOT 3.

[California Charlie]

Originally Posted by steve s

That was my one disappointment with the Cling conversion for the '46-'48 Ford setup. I understood that between his modification of the backing plates and my having the edge of the rear drums milled off, I would not need to use shims. Not so.

Just be sure and snug the axle nut on real tight if you're using shims. My understanding is that they greatly reduce the security of the taper/key connection. Before I learned this lesson, I sheared several axle keys (sounds like your transmission exploded). Haven't had any problems for last 20 years.

Thanks Steve for your suggestion about the axle shims. They did come with my eBay junk kit, and since they are just collecting dust in a box, I'll give them a try. Your input is much appreciated.

[California Charlie]

Originally Posted by steve s

That was my one disappointment with the Cling conversion for the '46-'48 Ford setup. I understood that between his modification of the backing plates and my having the edge of the rear drums milled off, I would not need to use shims. Not so.

Just be sure and snug the axle nut on real tight if you're using shims. My understanding is that they greatly reduce the security of the taper/key connection. Before I learned this lesson, I sheared several axle keys (sounds like your transmission exploded). Haven't had any problems for last 20 years.

Thanks once again Steve for your suggestion about the axle shims. Makes sense to me, and perhaps there was some thought with the first eBay kit I did buy and receive. Even though those kit parts received were junk. The shims were included and may be the answer to resolving my current problem issue.

[Railcarmover]

Originally Posted by Pickupman

I'm confused How does this answer the question?

Hey look,an editor..I was just making light of his shade tree mechanic comment..

okay, jack up car, push wheel in and turn, then pull wheel out and turn...if, when pulled out, it stops rubbing its an endplay issue..shim and fix..or cut the drum flange. There...happy?

as stated above be careful shimming.don't exceed with shims the length of the taper ..assemble shims, measure axle protrusion, make sure that's greater than the hub bore length.. this way the clamping force of the nut is against the taper, not the shim and axle housing...turning a few thousands off the drum flange will work if the endplay of the axle is correct..

there,all better..

[Railcarmover]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Oh wait...if your endplay is excessive you'll need this..

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...vised-2014.pdf

and a big old shade tree..

[daveymc29]

I had a problem with the drums rubbing the backing plate when I first got my roadster. I took the backing plates off and turned them in my brake lathe taking an 1/8th inch off.
recently I had the same problem with new cast drums on stock hubs. I called Randy Gross and he corrected my dilemma by having me instal the cones on each side. I gained enough to free the drums from the backing plates and now the brakes (stock) are happy.Now all my A's have cones in them and I have yet to experience a problem. I tighten pretty well, but not 100 psi or so. More like 80, if that. Two hands on a large lug wrench, not torque wrench.

[California Charlie]

Originally Posted by daveymc29

I had a problem with the drums rubbing the backing plate when I first got my roadster. I took the backing plates off and turned them in my brake lathe taking an 1/8th inch off.
recently I had the same problem with new cast drums on stock hubs. I called Randy Gross and he corrected my dilemma by having me instal the cones on each side. I gained enough to free the drums from the backing plates and now the brakes (stock) are happy.Now all my A's have cones in them and I have yet to experience a problem. I tighten pretty well, but not 100 psi or so. More like 80, if that. Two hands on a large lug wrench, not torque wrench.

Hi Davy,

Update: I tried using axle shims on my rear axle, I found some good results from keeping the rear drums from rubbing on my backing plates, but after I did that, I was told "Absolutely" not To do that. So I'm back to square one with no progress to get me over this problem issue. I don't know if what you are referring as cones are axle shims. I'm finding trying a Model A Hydraulic Brake conversion is not a simple bolt on kit without having some installation problems along the way. No matter how good the kit components may be, you may find yourself in my boat with trying to resolve problem issues by myself. Like I mentioned to the originator of this thread, "Make sure you have someone physically on your side to get you through this."

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Pickupman

I'm confused How does this answer the question?

It is called humor. If we have to explain it you will never understand.

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can use an axle shim if needed and not worry about it. Just be sure all surfaces that mate are clean and dry. If the axle taper has any high spots, carefully file them smooth.

[KenCoupe]

Originally Posted by California Charlie

Ken, I emailed and called the Early V8 Garage and no one bothered to return my call or answer my email. This is part of the frustration I'm having with trying to get some help with my hydraulic brake conversion problem and why I recommended to Chris to have someone readily available and willing to get him over the hurdles of the brake conversion.

I'm sorry you have had trouble getting in touch with the Early V8 Garage. When I was working with them a few years ago, they were very responsive and good to work with. I am in Ventura County and I drove there a few times to get parts and advice from them. I also took my A to them to finish and fine tune the brakes. If you are close to them and have the time,maybe a visit to their shop would be productive. However, sometimes things change and they may not be doing Model A brake conversions. Their main business is Early V8s. I hope this helps as I don't want to steer anybody in the wrong direction.

Ken

[Smog Tech]

It has been about 2 years sense I have been to Early V8 Garage. Some times when Richard is there by himself the doors will be closed, bang on the door and he will answer if he is there.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by KenCoupe

I'm sorry you have had trouble getting in touch with the Early V8 Garage. When I was working with them a few years ago, they were very responsive and good to work with. I am in Ventura County and I drove there a few times to get parts and advice from them. I also took my A to them to finish and fine tune the brakes. If you are close to them and have the time,maybe a visit to their shop would be productive. However, sometimes things change and they may not be doing Model A brake conversions. Their main business is Early V8s. I hope this helps as I don't want to steer anybody in the wrong direction.

Ken

Where is the V8 Garage located?

[Smog Tech]

Early V8 Garage, Richard Lacy
1217 Azusa Canyon Road
West Covina, CA 91790
(626) 338-2282

[KenCoupe]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

Where is the V8 Garage located?

If you go there, the address is on N Azusa Canyon Rd, but you need to keep going to W San Bernardino Rd. Go just past the liquor store and the Collision Center to an alley. Turn back north into the alley and go all the way to the end of the alley where Early V8 Garage is. There is a small Early V8 Ford sign on their building. You can't enter from Azusa Canyon Rd (at least you couldn't last time I was there.) Google the address and you can probably see what I am describing.

Ken

[KenCoupe]

My directions above were incomplete. From N Azusa Rd you would turn west on W San Berardino Rd, then into the alley I mentioned above. Best to Google the directions from wherever you are coming from or put it in your GPS. I just wanted anyone going there to be aware of the alley entrance.

Ken

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Smog Tech

Early V8 Garage, Richard Lacy
1217 Azusa Canyon Road
West Covina, CA 91790
(626) 338-2282

Thank you.

[mrtexas]

https://sites.google.com/site/mrtexa...ydraulicbrakes

[Nasukau]

Any updated progress on this?

Denny

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by daveymc29

If using silicon fluid be aware that the stop light switches may not be compatible. I just went through that with my delivery with 42 master cylinder. No brake lights so I chaecked the switch. Bought a new one and it has a warning in the box, "Not compatible with silicone brake fluid." (Or something close to those words.) It works but I know not like the old ones and regular DOT 3.

You can get the correct switches from Ron Francis Wire Works, https://www.ronfrancis.com, (800) 292-1940

Charlie Stephens