The Ford Barn

fourfords · 02-12-2024, 08:48 PM

Just bought a '29 Roadster. The windshield pivots from the top. What keeps it from pivoting toward the back in the wind?

Jim/GA · 02-13-2024, 12:08 AM

Tighten up the wing nuts on the outside of each stanchion.

Some never tighten up because the stud bottoms out inside the wing nut before the windshield is tight. In that case, add a washer or two to the threaded post before tightening the wing nuts. That should do it.

fourfords · 02-13-2024, 02:10 AM

10-4!

dave in australia · 02-13-2024, 02:18 AM

Also, the seals provide a bit of resistance, assuming you have them, and they're in good condition.

fourfords · 02-13-2024, 02:58 AM

Seals? What seals? Please describe and explain. Thankyou.

fourfords · 02-13-2024, 02:59 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I've just begun the learning curve here!

springerpete · 02-13-2024, 07:08 AM

On my '29 there is a long rubber seal on the bottom of the frame that seals against the cowl and I think there are thin seals on the stanchions. (either my T or A- - I can't go look now.) Bill

mngrant · 02-13-2024, 09:02 AM

One other issues to be aware of. With the top down, the window frame will not support a driver or passenger to hold onto while entering or exiting the vehicle.

Bob C · 02-13-2024, 12:22 PM

Here is a picture of the windshield frame seal.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...htm?pid=978010

Randy in ca · 02-14-2024, 07:41 PM

The condition of the cup and cone that the stud goes through and the ability of the wingnut to push them together sufficiently are the main factors affecting what should hold the windshield firmly in place. Marco Tahtarus once had the fallowing comments on this common problem:

"It usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there.
Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly.

1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining).

2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup.

3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface.

I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or maynot tell you quite abit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!

It's usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there.
Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly.

1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining).

2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup.

3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface.

I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or may not tell you quite a bit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!!"

02-12-2024, 08:48 PM	#1
fourfords Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lake Elsinore, CA. Posts: 414	1929 Standard Roadster Just bought a '29 Roadster. The windshield pivots from the top. What keeps it from pivoting toward the back in the wind?

02-13-2024, 12:08 AM	#2
Jim/GA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Young Harris, GA Posts: 1,821	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster Tighten up the wing nuts on the outside of each stanchion. Some never tighten up because the stud bottoms out inside the wing nut before the windshield is tight. In that case, add a washer or two to the threaded post before tightening the wing nuts. That should do it. __________________ Jim Cannon Former MAFCA Technical Director "Have a Model A day!"

02-13-2024, 02:10 AM	#3
fourfords Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lake Elsinore, CA. Posts: 414	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster 10-4!

02-13-2024, 02:18 AM	#4
dave in australia Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Victoria, Australia Posts: 1,177	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster Also, the seals provide a bit of resistance, assuming you have them, and they're in good condition.

02-13-2024, 02:58 AM	#5
fourfords Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lake Elsinore, CA. Posts: 414	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster Seals? What seals? Please describe and explain. Thankyou.

02-13-2024, 02:59 AM	#6
fourfords Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lake Elsinore, CA. Posts: 414	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I've just begun the learning curve here!

02-13-2024, 07:08 AM	#7
springerpete Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Central Maine Posts: 644	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster On my '29 there is a long rubber seal on the bottom of the frame that seals against the cowl and I think there are thin seals on the stanchions. (either my T or A- - I can't go look now.) Bill

02-13-2024, 09:02 AM	#8
mngrant Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 32	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster One other issues to be aware of. With the top down, the window frame will not support a driver or passenger to hold onto while entering or exiting the vehicle.

02-14-2024, 07:41 PM	#10
Randy in ca Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,647	Re: 1929 Standard Roadster The condition of the cup and cone that the stud goes through and the ability of the wingnut to push them together sufficiently are the main factors affecting what should hold the windshield firmly in place. Marco Tahtarus once had the fallowing comments on this common problem: "It usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there. Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly. 1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining). 2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup. 3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface. I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or maynot tell you quite abit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't! It's usually is caused by reproduction parts and many can contribute. You will have to investigate to determine just what you have going on there. Note that the windshield is held in position by friction between the cone on each end of the windshield and their MATING cups within the stanchions. There are a number of things that can prevent them from mating properly. 1. A cup has been replaced in one or both stanchions. A repro may not have the correct shape, a cup not tack welded in can turn with the windshield, or a cup tack welded in at any angle not true to the windshield could reduce the mating surface by as much as 85% (15% remaining). 2. The special nut that holds the cone to the windshield frame via the threaded stud is too thick (I've seen this). The thicker nut bottoms out in the base of the cup before the cone is pulled tight into the cup. 3. Cups or cones (most likely) are reproductions and the tapers don't fit well enough to provide the necessary mating surface. I would first inspect VERY closely for ANY visible spaces or gaps between each cone and cup. This could be top, bottom, front, rear, or all around. This may or may not tell you quite a bit. Next, remove one stanchion and windshield frame and inspect the cones for markings. It should be very clear from these markings where the contact points are or MORE importantly where they aren't!!"