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Old 01-20-2011, 05:56 PM   #1
372dart
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Default engine question

Would like to run a oil line to my center main,I've seen pictures, what tools do I need, (drill bit size, tap, fittings,line size) Does It matter where you drill the hole?
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:31 PM   #2
Milton
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Default Re: engine question

The following is a picture of some beautiful work by one of the posters on here and his prices at the time.

PRESSURE OIL CENTER MAIN BEARING,LABOR $100.00
1/8" PIPE TO 1/4" TUBE STRAIGHT FITTING # A-WHD68x4 $2.07
1/8"PIPE TO 17-/4" TUBE 90 DEGREE FITTING # A-WHD69X4 $2.75
HEAVY WALL 1/4" TUBING #A-WHD-14 $1.00
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File Type: jpg centermainoiler-a.jpg (79.1 KB, 89 views)
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:49 PM   #3
372dart
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Default Re: engine question

Thanks Milton for picture, It sure is helpful. Gonna pour some babbit and linebore a block tomorrow. Thanks again!!
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:58 AM   #4
MikeK
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Default Re: engine question

You already have an oil line to the center main- it is drilled through the valve chamber, and the oil feeds down into the proper place, the clearance opening while running. Although done by some, I seriously question any benefit of feeding virtually zero pressure oil to the compression side (cap side) of the crank. It can't do anything a proper bearing oil groove won't. If you must, go ahead. Just an obstacle to setting the shims.
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Old 01-22-2011, 10:35 AM   #5
Dick Deegan
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Default Re: engine question

I have a question in reference to Milton's picture.

When drilling into the block in the area indicated, aren't you into solid cast iron? How do you pick up oil from that location? Do you have to drill a long way to get oil?

Dick
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Old 01-22-2011, 10:45 AM   #6
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Default Re: engine question

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this is how mine is done , but using a modified v8 pump . 20# oil pressure as my aluminum rods have no dippers . drilled crank ......... steve
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:35 AM   #7
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: engine question

I agree with MikeK on the "benefit" of adding the extra oil feed to the non clearance side of the center main. I've always used the same logic when installing cam bearings in newer engines. The full circle cam bearing has an oil hole and is installed into a block with a full circle groove for oil flow, so the beaing can pick up oil no matter how it's installed. I always install the cam bearing so the oil hole is on the clearance side. In very case I can think of off hand, this would be having the oil hole facing up.

To prolong the life of the babbit in the mains the best thing is to:

Add counterweights to the crankshaft
Start with a quality babbit job
Keep the engine full of clean quality oil
Drive with common sense
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:25 PM   #8
Kurt in NJ
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Default Re: engine question

The only pressurized bearing on a stock A is the center cam bearing, yet of the 3 cam bearings it is usually the most worn ---it has first choice of all the dirt the pump pumps ---the pools in the valve chanber allow some of the larger particles to settle out, the feeds for the bearings are higher than the bottom ---what is the advantage of pumping (at a very low pressure) the dirtiest oil to a place that requires the oil to travel 3/4 around the bearing to the oil well that lubes the point of highest load ?? ---the oil needs to be introduced into a plain bearing ahead of the loaded area so that shaft rotation carries it to the loaded area.

It is a good thing that the A has such a large bearing area that the loads are small ---most anything will work ---for a while ,

Many modifications are a crutch to cover up a bad repair or rebuild of the original design.
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:33 PM   #9
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: engine question

I have always thought, a lightened Flywheel first, and a well machined, and balanced engine, is a Model A's center mains Best Friend, and at any rate, I have never heard of a bearing failure, from to much oil. Herm.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:11 PM   #10
Glenn C.
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Default Re: engine question

IMO, something might be gained if a person went with a new "high performance pump" being offered by some of the suppliers, otherwise no benefit with standard design, off the shelf oil pump. Counter balanced crank.....Yes. Vertical mounted oil filter modification to the valve cover seems good so far.
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:59 PM   #11
Milton
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Default Re: engine question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Deegan View Post
I have a question in reference to Milton's picture.

When drilling into the block in the area indicated, aren't you into solid cast iron? How do you pick up oil from that location? Do you have to drill a long way to get oil?

Dick
I don't understand the location either. The only thing I can think is a cross drill combination. I'm with Kohnke Rebabbitting on this i.e. light flywheel, counterweights and balance.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:27 AM   #12
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Default Re: engine question

Dennis Pirano has the kit in the pic above with instructions and drill sizes. Yes, you have to drill and tap, but not a long way. First drill into the block for the pipe fitting, and then drill diagonally into the oil passage. I agree with Herm, the other things first.
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