The Ford Barn

PGBuick · 04-09-2024, 08:41 PM

I did some searching on the forum as I troubleshoot a problem with my 59AB, but looking to more savvy flathead folks here to help me solve this issue.

First, everything is essentially new on this H&H built motor that I acquired. I am running 12v negative ground. All new wiring. All new fuel system including the tank. It came with a helmet style distributor with stock vacuum brake that appeared refurbished. Points looked good and gaps were good, about .016". It has a coil adaptor connected to a remote mounted 12v coil. I am using a ballast resistor to give me the correct coil resistance and primary voltage. The distributor came with a small can type condenser with a wire on it, like you'd see on later 50's/60's GM (and maybe Ford?) systems. It is connected to the distributor terminal on the coil adaptor.

Car has been running great, and it has about 50 miles of run time on it with no issues. Seemed as if the distributor had been set up very well based on how it has been running. I do have a timing tab but had not yet checked where it was set.

Today I warmed it up and drove about a mile, at which point she began to suddenly run very poorly. Idles rough and won't take throttle without breaking up severely. Essentially barely running under load and not idling great either.

Fuel pressure is about 3 psi. I recently added a spring type fuel regulator and gauge in the line between the pump and carb, and fuel to the carb seems adequate. Carb is a refurbed (or new repro?) Stromberg 97 with a brass check ball type inlet fitting.

The sudden bad running seems classic electrical to me. Points, condenser, coil? However, upon inspection and testing, they all seem fine. The fuel pressure regulator setup is all new since last driving, so I also need to suspect that as the primary cause, however, it appears to have plenty of fuel being delivered to the carb inlet and the gauge reads 3psi steady.

My questions today:
- are 6v and 12v condensers the same?
- Do I need to be running a stock type condenser like the Napa FA-49? Keep in mind the condenser/coil/points setup I described above has been running like a champ with no indication of problems until today. Condenser checks out OK with ohm meter.
- I will check the brass check ball on the carb inlet, which is very different from the typical needle and seat arrangement I've seen on prior carbs. I don't know if these ball type inlets are problematic or might somehow be causing issue with the new fuel pressure regulator arrangement at 3psi. If I open the bowl, where should the fuel level be at? Any feedback welcome.
- I'm not a fan of the helmet type distributor as it is a bit challenging to setup without special tools. Would a crab style make things easier for me to service? I've read here on many posts that the stock distributors are good, reliable devices, yet the helmet style seems hard to work on. Convince me to keep it, or upgrade to a better, more reliable distributor. I am the first to admit that I am very well versed in more modern 1960's era ignition systems, and the flathead stuff has been interesting to learn about, but remains a bit unfamiliar, thus, hard to troubleshoot.

Thanks for any feedback!

04-09-2024, 08:41 PM	#1
PGBuick Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: Central Mass. Posts: 97	6V vs 12V condenser I did some searching on the forum as I troubleshoot a problem with my 59AB, but looking to more savvy flathead folks here to help me solve this issue. First, everything is essentially new on this H&H built motor that I acquired. I am running 12v negative ground. All new wiring. All new fuel system including the tank. It came with a helmet style distributor with stock vacuum brake that appeared refurbished. Points looked good and gaps were good, about .016". It has a coil adaptor connected to a remote mounted 12v coil. I am using a ballast resistor to give me the correct coil resistance and primary voltage. The distributor came with a small can type condenser with a wire on it, like you'd see on later 50's/60's GM (and maybe Ford?) systems. It is connected to the distributor terminal on the coil adaptor. Car has been running great, and it has about 50 miles of run time on it with no issues. Seemed as if the distributor had been set up very well based on how it has been running. I do have a timing tab but had not yet checked where it was set. Today I warmed it up and drove about a mile, at which point she began to suddenly run very poorly. Idles rough and won't take throttle without breaking up severely. Essentially barely running under load and not idling great either. Fuel pressure is about 3 psi. I recently added a spring type fuel regulator and gauge in the line between the pump and carb, and fuel to the carb seems adequate. Carb is a refurbed (or new repro?) Stromberg 97 with a brass check ball type inlet fitting. The sudden bad running seems classic electrical to me. Points, condenser, coil? However, upon inspection and testing, they all seem fine. The fuel pressure regulator setup is all new since last driving, so I also need to suspect that as the primary cause, however, it appears to have plenty of fuel being delivered to the carb inlet and the gauge reads 3psi steady. My questions today: - are 6v and 12v condensers the same? - Do I need to be running a stock type condenser like the Napa FA-49? Keep in mind the condenser/coil/points setup I described above has been running like a champ with no indication of problems until today. Condenser checks out OK with ohm meter. - I will check the brass check ball on the carb inlet, which is very different from the typical needle and seat arrangement I've seen on prior carbs. I don't know if these ball type inlets are problematic or might somehow be causing issue with the new fuel pressure regulator arrangement at 3psi. If I open the bowl, where should the fuel level be at? Any feedback welcome. - I'm not a fan of the helmet type distributor as it is a bit challenging to setup without special tools. Would a crab style make things easier for me to service? I've read here on many posts that the stock distributors are good, reliable devices, yet the helmet style seems hard to work on. Convince me to keep it, or upgrade to a better, more reliable distributor. I am the first to admit that I am very well versed in more modern 1960's era ignition systems, and the flathead stuff has been interesting to learn about, but remains a bit unfamiliar, thus, hard to troubleshoot. Thanks for any feedback!