1934 Tudor needs a little hop-up

[vincent]

Hello all
just by chance I found your wonderful Ford barn. My name is Harty, I am from Germany, spend a lot of my life with british motorcycles from last century. Having sold my Mercedes CLS I decided I need an old V8 car. I was searching for a Hot Rod Ford Coupe but the german laws are very unforgiving for the Hot rods and there is a lot of junk on offer for a lot of money so I decided an unmodified car would be the better thing for me. Good luck came my way when I was able to buy a very original 34 Tudor Ford car, albeit technically sort of neglected.... It is a RH drive and I was told, it was built in South America. Anyway, I sorted the carb, exhaustsystem and brakes and got it on the road. As it has the original three speed tranny I found it to be very undergeared. The motor is revving very high and I could barely go faster than 50 mph. With this gearing the car is useless for german traffic as I would be in everyones way on the road. I know that there is a "fast" ring gear available but this 3,54 ratio is only 16% faster than the 4,11 that probably is in the car. I would like to get around 30% faster just to lower the revs and get the car up to 65mph without overrevving. Now my question to you gearheads: is there a gearbox available that fits the crankcase of this engine and is way faster than the original thing? I can live with three speeds but at the moment I change into high gear with a screaming engine at around 35 mph....
Thanks in advance for all your suggestions and advice!
PS: the car has 16" wheels and tires 6 x 6.00. I think it should have 17". Is this correct? Anybody having two 17" wheels for sale?

cheers, Harty

[Tinker]

16" 6.00 is correct. A little bigger tire will add some.3:54 is a good gear set for the rear with a strong engine. If three sp is important and is fine. I'd next look at the motor. How is that doing? Milling heads will add some compression and remain in the stock zone. Stocker should run in the 55-60 mph range no issue.

[koates]

Welcome to the Ford Barn. The original correct wheels and tires on a 34 Ford is 5.50x17"wire spoked . These cars when new were good for 80 MPH plus but not today in modern traffic. You would have to maybe update the brakes to match any improved performance you have planned. I drive an original 34 sedan with its mechanical brakes and it runs OK at 50 to 55 MPH which is all I will go. You have to ask yourself if you want to enjoy vintage motoring as it was back in the day or if you want to run with the modern traffic on a German highway. If it is the latter then some modifications to many components will be required. Always a shame to alter an original car that has survived this long in my book. 5 speed boxes can be adapted along with hydraulic brakes and smaller wheels with radial tires etc, etc. Good luck, Regards, Kevin.

[vincent]

Hello again
I am confused now as I don´t know which wheel size is definitely correct. I don´t want to modify the car at all but it is way to slow for our traffic, to survive it, I should at least be able to do 80km per hour (50mph) without grenading the engine. The engine is the 21 bolt engine. It has got some (enough) torque to cruise at 80km per hour but to go 80 kph it is allready way over the torque summit. I fear the high continous revving will kill it. I hope I can find a solution to make this car cruisable without destroying all the old stuff. So it seems the only possible cure at the moment is putting the fast ring gear into the differencial and fit bigger 17" wheels with a larger tire. That will give me about 20% less revs. Or I have to do a complete set of gears for the gearbox. I have people and machines to do this but for a one-off it might be a bit expensive.
cheers, Harty

Do 17" rims exist with a 4" width?

[KiWinUS]

Welcome to the Barn Harty. You will get some great help here.
Cheers
Tony

[koates]

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Hi again, I gave you the correct information on the wheels and tires. 5.50x17'' so that's 5 !/2 inches wide x 17 inches diameter. 6.00X16'" wheels came in on the 1935 models. Be aware that some information posted on here is not correct. These cars with a standard diff ratio of 4.11 would do about 84 MPH in road tests of the day. Sometimes the old V8s sound like they a revving hard because of the air flow noise coming from the generator mounted fan. Maybe your engine needs a tune up. I think you could gain some experience with your car by buying some service literature and studding up on it before deciding on any modifications. Best way of driving your car is to pick quiet country roads and keep off the high speed freeways. 50MPH is very easy for a good condition Ford V8 to cruise at. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

Just another point, are you sure you have it in 3rd (or top) gear ? Don't mean to be funny here but strange things can happen ! Many good books are available on these fords. Try MACS on line catalogue which has a book section. Regards, Kevin.

[flatheadmurre]

I have a set of 4 17" rims with tires(old!!) here in sweden.
Not sure if i have a correct set of hubcaps for them though...make me an offer !

[vincent]

Send me some pics - if they are 5 x 5,5", have a center hole of about 92mm and the big hole for the hub cap is about 140mm AND a rim of at least 4 inches between the shoulders, I am very interested. My 16" rims are about 140mm wide on the outside.

[vincent]

Originally Posted by koates

Just another point, are you sure you have it in 3rd (or top) gear ? Don't mean to be funny here but strange things can happen ! Many good books are available on these fords. Try MACS on line catalogue which has a book section. Regards, Kevin.

Yes, definitely in high gear. Reverse is forward left, low is backwards left, second is forward right and high is backward right (at least on my box)

[David J]

Unless you have a very strong engine don't go more than 3.54 on the rear gear .
They get pretty doggy with a 3.25 rear gear .

Stock wheels on 33-34 cars are indeed 17 " .

[vincent]

Originally Posted by koates

Hi again, I gave you the correct information on the wheels and tires. 5.50x17'' so that's 5 !/2 inches wide x 17 inches diameter. 6.00X16'" wheels came in on the 1935 models. Be aware that some information posted on here is not correct. These cars with a standard diff ratio of 4.11 would do about 84 MPH in road tests of the day. Sometimes the old V8s sound like they a revving hard because of the air flow noise coming from the generator mounted fan. Maybe your engine needs a tune up. I think you could gain some experience with your car by buying some service literature and studding up on it before deciding on any modifications. Best way of driving your car is to pick quiet country roads and keep off the high speed freeways. 50MPH is very easy for a good condition Ford V8 to cruise at. Regards, Kevin.

Kevin , thanks for your reply but I work on combustion engines for about 40 years now, have raced ten years on the Bonneville salt flats with a 3000cc streamliner motorcycle. I guess I can feel when the engine is running out of puff. No way would this 3,6 ltr motor propel the heavy car up to over 80 mph when new. The engine is rated at 75hp.
cheers, Harty

[Karl]

I have 16 inch wheels on mine and everything else is standard and like Kevin cruises comfortably at 50 to 60 mph (80 to 100 km/h ) would do more but not best for safety or longevity. I have a set of 17 inch wheels but haven't got around to putting them on - a full set of tires is expensive (especially in 17 inch radials) so I will wait until the ones I have need replacement before going to the bigger wheels. -Karl

[Karl]

Originally Posted by vincent

Kevin , thanks for your reply but I work on combustion engines for about 40 years now, have raced ten years on the Bonneville salt flats with a 3000cc streamliner motorcycle. I guess I can feel when the engine is running out of puff. No way would this 3,6 ltr motor propel the heavy car up to over 80 mph when new. The engine is rated at 75hp.
cheers, Harty

Kevin is right -when they were new multiple independent Road tests quoted a max speed of in excess of 80 mph ( I seem to remember 82 mph on one road test ). I suspect it took a while to get there but get there they apparently did. The engine is rated at 85hp for 1934 -Karl

[Ol' Ron]

If this car came from s america, not sure what rear axle ratio is in it. I've had a few 34 cars and trucks in my life and most went faster than I wanted to drive them. Bonny & Clide, thanked Henry for the fastest car on the road.

[koates]

Originally Posted by vincent

Kevin , thanks for your reply but I work on combustion engines for about 40 years now, have raced ten years on the Bonneville salt flats with a 3000cc streamliner motorcycle. I guess I can feel when the engine is running out of puff. No way would this 3,6 ltr motor propel the heavy car up to over 80 mph when new. The engine is rated at 75hp.
cheers, Harty

Vincent, well I guess you have a bit to learn about the original 1934 21 stud Ford V8 engine. The 1933 Ford was rated at 75 brake horsepower. The 1934 was conservatively rated at 85 brake horse power (some publications say 90BHP)and was road tested to well over 80 Mph by several car magazines of the day including the English "MOTOR". Even some Ford Motor Company shop manuals stated this fact. Why do you think many police departments and Bonney & Clyde and John Dillinger and other lawbreakers used them. Because in their day they were one of the fastest production cars of their day. It would seem that your car/engine has a problem if it wont perform to close to this standard. As I stated, read some books. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

Vincent, check to see that the carburettor throttle butterfly is fully open when your foot is flat to the floor. Something is definitely not correct on your car. Regards, Kevin.

[TitusDH]

Hi Harty,


fellow german. When I calculate the theoretical speed of my truck in direct gear and 4,87 rear end, I'll end up (7.50-16 Tires, 80cm diameter) with 73 kmh at 2500 engine rpm's. I would consider 2500-3000 rpm to be safe for long distance motoring.


With the engine at redline (3600 rpm) top speed of my 49 F2 would be 106 kmh. Will most likely never see this scary figure, though. A 4,11 ring gear set which is available for my rear end would raise my speed by some 20%.


Simply wait for the general speed limit to come.
The days of the german Autobahn as we know it are numbered, I guess.


Wil from Hamburg

[Vics Stuff]

Hello Vincent ! Welcome to the Ford Barn. If I had a fairly original car , I would do all I can to keep it stock. If you were wanting to run at higher speeds I would look into a overdrive system. Your brakes are going to be a big factor in the safety department. I drive a 1935 Ford pick up , it is 100% stock. I can run the local highways at a comfortable
speed of 60MPH or 90KPH. I really would not want to run faster than that due to the entire drive system was not designed for high speeds.
Good luck on your cool car.
Vic

[JM 35 Sedan]

Hello Vincent....welcome to Fordbarn....this is a great on line forum to get information on your early Ford V8.
Based on my experiences over the years of owning, driving, doing all my own maintanence, and repair work on my '35 Fords, I think you would do well by changing the rear ring & pinion gear set from 4.11 to 3.54 gears. Also, by upgrading your original 3 speed transmission to '39-'48 gears with the improved synchronizer rings, and using a 29 tooth cluster gear with 15 tooth input gear, you will have a nice set up for good acceleration in 1st and 2nd, and a final gear combination that will allow you to easily cruise at 55 to 65 mph without exceedingly high engine rpm's. I'd also suggest keeping the 16" × 4" wire wheels, and consider slightly larger diameter rear tires, maybe 6.50 to 7.00. If you do make these changes, don't forget to change the driven speedometer gear which means you may have to change the "turtle" housing as well.

Another consideration would be to add equalizers to your mechanical brakes at all four backing plates. After doing this to my '35 fordor sedan, I feel like these allow the brakes to work as well as any '39-'48 Ford with hydraulic brakes that I have ever driven.

[V8COOPMAN]

And remember, it's not the WHEEL size that's important when figuring speed potential....it's the outside circumference of the tire, or the outside diameter of the TIRE that is important in your overall computations. I TOO would stay with the 16" spoke wheels. They are a stronger wheel than the 17", and much easier size to find GOOD tires for. Pretty good advice in post #20 just above. DD

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by vincent

Hello again
I am confused now as I don´t know which wheel size is definitely correct. I don´t want to modify the car at all but it is way to slow for our traffic, to survive it, I should at least be able to do 80km per hour (50mph) without grenading the engine. The engine is the 21 bolt engine. It has got some (enough) torque to cruise at 80km per hour but to go 80 kph it is allready way over the torque summit. I fear the high continous revving will kill it. I hope I can find a solution to make this car cruisable without destroying all the old stuff. So it seems the only possible cure at the moment is putting the fast ring gear into the differencial and fit bigger 17" wheels with a larger tire. That will give me about 20% less revs. Or I have to do a complete set of gears for the gearbox. I have people and machines to do this but for a one-off it might be a bit expensive.
cheers, Harty

Do 17" rims exist with a 4" width?

What sounds like your engine over revving is really just fan noise. we are used to the silence of modern cars which makes us think an old car is ready to explode, just due to the noise level. Old cars had little or no sound deadening insulation in the firewall, and fans were not engineered to be quiet. With your engine cool, remove the fan belt and go for a short test run and see the difference. Your engine reallly is happy at 60-65 MPH.

Do you know of Zora Arkus-Duntov? I read an interview with him some years ago. He visited the U.S. in the 1930's and entered a 1934 Ford roadster (stock) in the Elgin Road Race (a then-popular event in Illinois). He removed the fenders and was clocked at 105 MPH on a slight downhill section. He calculated the RPM and was quite impressed. He said he had a race car in Europe with a Hispano-Suiza engine that would blow up long before reaching that RPM.
On your gearbox idea of machining new gears, third is direct which is as high as you can get. Oh, you could make 2nd into overdrive by machiing a new cluster gear and driven gear, but then you would have to wind it out in first then shift to direct and finally to what what was 2nd (now overdrive). Not practical. There are aftermarket overdrives that bolt into the torque tube (Mitchell or Volvo) or two speed rear axles (Columbia).

[tubman]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Hello Vincent....welcome to Fordbarn....this is a great on line forum to get information on your early Ford V8.
Based on my experiences over the years of owning, driving, doing all my own maintanence, and repair work on my '35 Fords, I think you would do well by changing the rear ring & pinion gear set from 4.11 to 3.54 gears. Also, by upgrading your original 3 speed transmission to '39-'48 gears with the improved synchronizer rings, and using a 29 tooth cluster gear with 15 tooth input gear, you will have a nice set up for good acceleration in 1st and 2nd, and a final gear combination that will allow you to easily cruise at 55 to 65 mph without exceedingly high engine rpm's. I'd also suggest keeping the 16" × 4" wire wheels, and consider slightly larger diameter rear tires, maybe 6.50 to 7.00. If you do make these changes, don't forget to change the driven speedometer gear which means you may have to change the "turtle" housing as well.

Another consideration would be to add equalizers to your mechanical brakes at all four backing plates. After doing this to my '35 fordor sedan, I feel like these allow the brakes to work as well as any '39-'48 Ford with hydraulic brakes that I have ever driven.

I think this is the best advice you have been given and agree completely. You don't want to go too fast. I have a '51 Ford with a Merc engine that will cruise the freeways all day at 75. I don't like to do it because of the steering and brakes (which, while in my opinion are much better that what's on a '34, are not up to current needs) and especially the other idiot drivers on the road.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by tubman

I think this is the best advice you have been given and agree completely. You don't want to go too fast. I have a '51 Ford with a Merc engine that will cruise the freeways all day at 75. I don't like to do it because of the steering and brakes (which, while in my opinion are much better that what's on a '34, are not up to current needs) and especially the other idiot drivers on the road.

"other idiot drivers"?? What's wrong with holding a cell phone in one hand and a Big Mac in the other? I can steer with my knees, I'll have you know!!

[A bones]

Welcome Willkommen to The Barn. Happy to see you get some good attention. I experienced Germany the best part of a month in 1971. Shocked was I to find MBs being throttled to the max. Here they were ( at the time ) only used as deluxe transport. On your roads the exhaust pipes were throbbing. There, as you know, are hand signs for a slow driver. ( here as well, but different )

The posts above are all good #20 #21 #23 are very talented. #20 has done many deep dives on his stock favorite year. Then puts them to the test. Where you stand, his trials would be international.

My take on the scene is not just making maintaining speed but getting speedy. Members here have found that raising compression by milling heads can make great strides in covering more ground. I've done it on my avatar. I found a very different experience after making the cut.

Yes tubman #23 can speak to the ins and out of doing it with a V8. We, #23 and a lot of others should direct you to Flathead Ted for a set of his brake floaters. They make your mechanical brakes perform as well as hyd. brakes. WHEN properly adjusted.

In my youth I recall the men talking about overseas or export Fords using thicker headgaskets in order to run on inferior gasoline. Your prize Might just be so equipped. Worth the gamble for a set gaskets to find out. Then while its opened up read up on 'The Tin Foil Ball Check', just ask. It's simply a painless way to see how much improvement one may derive from milling.

Should you want to get into pulling the heads, find a how to or diy book, it will help,, if,, you should need help. My experience pulling heads was a birthright. I had to be a beginer with the valve in head or, OHV. In any case enjoy your '34
we shall all wish you well,, and wish we had a '34 too.

[bobH]

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My 'take'... (My experience is with a late 33 / early 34 sedan, with 36LB engine, 3.78 rear end)... skinny 17-inch wheels & stock tires, combined with stock brakes, stock steering, scared me at anything over 60/65. As it was, I learned to be relatively 'comfortable' at 60/65. If I wanted to 'go faster/lower revs', my choice would have been 16-inch rear wheels (think 35 Ford, or Kelsey, or modern) with oversize tires (for dago look). You can easily get to the equivalent of 3,54's and beyond, just by changing tires. This would be my 'cheap' approach, as compared to changing rear-end gears, or adding a Columbia (or Mitchell/Volvo/Borg Warner). The T-5 overdrive conversion could be considered, it's just not for me. Several good posts above with good info. JMO

[koates]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

What sounds like your engine over revving is really just fan noise. we are used to the silence of modern cars which makes us think an old car is ready to explode, just due to the noise level. Old cars had little or no sound deadening insulation in the firewall, and fans were not engineered to be quiet. With your engine cool, remove the fan belt and go for a short test run and see the difference. Your engine reallly is happy at 60-65 MPH.

Do you know of Zora Arkus-Duntov? I read an interview with him some years ago. He visited the U.S. in the 1930's and entered a 1934 Ford roadster (stock) in the Elgin Road Race (a then-popular event in Illinois). He removed the fenders and was clocked at 105 MPH on a slight downhill section. He calculated the RPM and was quite impressed. He said he had a race car in Europe with a Hispano-Suiza engine that would blow up long before reaching that RPM.
On your gearbox idea of machining new gears, third is direct which is as high as you can get. Oh, you could make 2nd into overdrive by machiing a new cluster gear and driven gear, but then you would have to wind it out in first then shift to direct and finally to what what was 2nd (now overdrive). Not practical. There are aftermarket overdrives that bolt into the torque tube (Mitchell or Volvo) or two speed rear axles (Columbia).

Already mentioned the generator mounted fan noise in post #6. The faster you go the noisier it becomes, to the point all you hear is the fan and not the engine. Regards, Kevin.

[vincent]

I found a little more speed by removing the airfilter. The motor feels still too rich so I will adjust the float according to the notes of the Ford bulletin. Still I would like to find a 3,54 ratio set of ringgears for the diff and I do need a pair of 16" wheels - as all of you suggested. Now my local vintage tire dealer told me that the 7,00 x 16" Firestone is bigger in diameter than the 7,50" - is that true?
So if anyone has 2 16" wheels with at least 4" wide rim - I am ready to buy!

[Lawrie]

Vincent, you can do it a cheaper way for the rear end ratio change,
What I did was to get a set of later model (48) 3.78 gearset and machine them to fit the 33/34 rear end.
If you have access to a lathe a simple job. I have set of 48 3.78 in the 33 and have been in for 15 or so yrs, a very good modification.
Lawrie

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by vincent

Now my local vintage tire dealer told me that the 7,00 x 16" Firestone is bigger in diameter than the 7,50" - is that true?

It depends on the brand name. Coker vintage BF Goodrich tires can be sized that way. Firestones tend not to be. I have found in the past that the 7.00s have a wider cross section than the 7.50s. They're both VERY close in diameter. I would consider radial tires, especially if you want to go FAST. They drive so much nicer, too. Stahl Excelsior Radials are not cheap, but extremely good quality, and fit the Ford 4" wheels well, WITHOUT tubes. Pictured are 5.50 and 7.50 x 16 Stahl Excelsiors on 4" X 16" 1940 Ford wheels. They will fit the wire wheels the same. DD

[vincent]

I have no fan noise as the car has a thermostat and an electric fan, kicking in from time to time. I will adjust the carb next and get some bigger tires and see where this will put my speed range.
cheers, Harty

[vincent]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Vincent, you can do it a cheaper way for the rear end ratio change,
What I did was to get a set of later model (48) 3.78 gearset and machine them to fit the 33/34 rear end.
If you have access to a lathe a simple job. I have set of 48 3.78 in the 33 and have been in for 15 or so yrs, a very good modification.
Lawrie

Well, 3,78 is not the best possible choice for me but if I cannot find the 3,54 I might go that way. Lathes small and big, several milling machines, its all in my workshop so modifying is very easy to do.
cheers, Harty

[Lawrie]

There was a 3.54 for sale in the swap section.
Lawrie

[Brian]

Vincent, with respect, shouldn't the first thing to do be to calculate the existing diff ratio? You only 'think' it is a 4.11.
These cars are noisy at higher engine revs, however, it is my experience you cannot over-rev a flathead to dangerous RPM's; they run outta breathing before then.
Your car, as others have stated, should do 80 MPH, might take a while to get there though!!

[Lawrie]

Vincent, we have just been out for the day(320 klms) in our bone stock 34 3 window coupe, standard bore 33 babbit engine, flat top pistons, stock transmission, 17 in wheels 3.54 rear gears, on the main hi way ran at 55 -60 mph , no over heat , gave it a squirt and no drama at all to get 75 MPH.
Engine as quiet as a mouse, a bit of wind noise, no worries staying straight on the road, and this is not a smooth road.
Lawrie

[vincent]

Thanks Lawrie
This is exactly what I plan to do to my car. Fit the 3,54 ratio to the diff and use 7,50 x 16" tires on the rear. All of this should get me around 20% more speed with the same revs. No need to ever go fast but I sure want to lower the revs a bit.
Harty

[Lawrie]

Ours has the 550X17 crossplys.
Lawrie

[Terry,OH]

Harty: What carburetor do you have on your engine? Do inspect the throttle to make sure you can get full throttle plate opening as suggested above.

[vincent]

Okay folks
I checked all the parts that could help to get some more speed into the car. After fitting the regulator to the electric pump and freshing up the ignition distributor I adjusted the ignition to the works advice. After a testride I tried a bit more advance. The engine is now willing to rev and I was able to run higher speeds than before. The brakes are converted to hydraulic but the rest of car is stock with non-working shock dampeners (next job!) on all four wheels so the testride with around 110km/h was "interesting" .... I could have gone a bit faster but with the roadholding "as is" the speed was enough for the (wide) road available. I have to say, I did not expect this amount of power from this engine which really has seen better days. So in winter it will come out, get all that it needs, transmission gone through and updated where neccessary and with 4 working shock dampners we will be good to go!
Thanks for all your help and suggestions - I will need a lot more of it in the coming months!!!
cheers, Harty

[vincent]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Harty: What carburetor do you have on your engine? Do inspect the throttle to make sure you can get full throttle plate opening as suggested above.

Have the original Holley with the Ford sign on the engine. It is opening completely when pedal is pushed to the floor.
The powervalve might be leaking as I hear the electric pump do a couple strokes every re-start, even when the engine was shut off only a few minutes ago so I have to look into that as well.
cheers, Harty

[tubman]

Ooops, double post.

[tubman]

Just a minor point, but the original carburetor for your car was a Stromberg 48. The holleys were used from '38 through '56 but will fit on your car (some of the later ones may require some minor changes). If you decide to change to a Stromberg, either get a decent good used carburetor and have it rebuilt by one of the guys on here or get a new Stromberg 97 from Clive in England. The 97's he sells have a slightly smaller venturi than the original model 48, but I believe that he also offers a "big" 97 that flows even more than a 48. Being in Europe having one of the guys on here to rebuild it may not be practical, but if you decide to go that way, "Uncle Max" is the resident Stromberg expert and there is also "Charlie ny" and "scicala" who both have excellent reputations. You could do it yourself if you can get a kit and a good core.

I would avoid the "9Super7" from Speedway Motors, as they have drawn mixed reviews.

[Lawrie]

Vincent, to be comfortable at 50 mph and higher I found some things need to be right,
1 steering with no play.
2 good shocks (mine are original fixed up)
3 good spring shackles
4 good tyres,(mine are stock 55x17 cross plys.
All these make it easy to travel with the traffic ,steer ,be looking at something in a paddock on the side ,hit a bump in the road and stay going straight. even if you are towing a caravan.
Lawrie

[vincent]

My car originated in Argentina and has probably had a hard time the first half century. The steering gear needs some love as there is play which is not adjustable. I made new spring shackles and pins already, now everything is turning in bronce bushes and has grease nipples to keep it lubed properly. I really look forward to rides with this car when everything behaves as it should!

[Lawrie]

Vincent, I made shackle bushes for the rear from some yellow nylon stuff from the local bearing supplier, so far they have about 7000 kms on them and are still good.
Lawrie

[Fairlane500]

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I wonder if it has a 4cyl rear axle.

I have a 34 Tudor 4:11 with 750/16's and it will do over 90 mph with a 221 24 stud.

[vincent]

Originally Posted by Fairlane500

I wonder if it has a 4cyl rear axle.

I have a 34 Tudor 4:11 with 750/16's and it will do over 90 mph with a 221 24 stud.

I find "Industria Argentina" on various parts of the car. Maybe those cars were fitted with a different ratio axle for the "roads" in Argentine in those days. My HRD Rapide bike came from Argentine as well and differed in various things as well from the bikes sold in Europe or USA. Is there a stamping to be found on the diff housing and where should I find it? Of course nobody knows whats actually inside but we might get a clue....
90 mph will send my conrods into stratosphere ....
Your rear wheels fill the guards more than on my car, maybe I have stronger springs to keep the car higher over the ground. Lots of questions but also part of the fun with old toys.
cheers, Harty

[Lawrie]

Count the number of teeth on the ring gear through the filler hole, look in the green bible and you will see what ratio from that.
let me know the count and I will look it up.
just put a dab on paint on a tooth and turn a wheel and count.
Lawrie

[vincent]

After my last run yesterday I decided to buy a new carb, preferably a Stromberg Big 97. As there are several types to be had, I would like to find out, which type is the correct one for my 3,6 ltr. 21 bolt engine. What jets should be in the carb, anything else that is different or special for my application? I am ready to order but need a bit of a list, what exactly I want. Sorry but I am confused by the various lettering that the vendors have in their ads for the same carb. I do need a pull choke and a pull throttle. No vacuum tube or hose on the carb. I would like to order in Europe - so who is the Stromberg guru over here?
Thanks in advance, Harty

[tubman]

Clive Prew in England makes perfect examples of the Stromberg 97. Here is a link : https://www.stromberg-97.com/. From everything I have heard, you would be better off avoiding the 9 Super 7 from Speedway motors. You could also get a good core and have it rebuilt by "Uncle Max" on this site. Actually, you sould probably start by contacting said "Uncle Max" as I am sure he can set you on the proper path.

[vincent]

Originally Posted by tubman

Clive Prew in England makes perfect examples of the Stromberg 97. Here is a link : https://www.stromberg-97.com/. From everything I have heard, you would be better off avoiding the 9 Super 7 from Speedway motors. You could also get a good core and have it rebuilt by "Uncle Max" on this site. Actually, you sould probably start by contacting said "Uncle Max" as I am sure he can set you on the proper path.

Thank you very much. I thought about contacting Uncle Max but I don´t want to spend his time and ordering elsewhere then as it takes so long from USA to here. Have ordered an aircleaner in USA and now, only four weeks later, I got a note that it will arrive soon in Europe. Not a fault of the vendor but due to Corona and other difficulties it takes much longer for stuff to arrive here - and I get lousy taxes on top as well. So I would prefer to order somewhere here in Europe. May try to get Clive Prew and see what he advises. If Uncle Max or another carb expert reads this - feel free to give me advice
cheers, Harty

[vincent]

Got in touch with Clive and he told me to run the regular 97 with std Ford setting/jetting. So now I ordered from him and hope that the new carb will help a bit in the driveability of the dinosaur ;-)
cheers, Harty

[vincent]

BTW, have fitted the bigger tires on wider rims to the rear. 7.00 x 16" is almost 3" bigger in diameter to the 6.00 x 16". This gave a little more speed with less revs and makes cruising much nicer. Still the engine runs best at night when the air is cool, the carb is overly rich despite the much lowered float level. When the engine responds perfectly to the new carb, I will decide which ring gear to order for the differential and of course find out what is fitted to the car at the moment. So step by step the thing gets better and a lot more fun after each workshop hour...
cheers, Harty

[Lawrie]

You did the right thing by not getting the big 97, it will not fit onto the 33/34 manifold, well it will but you can't bore out the intake to fit the big 97 bore as there is no room,.
The stock new 97 from the UK are the best thing you can get , they work a treat , both our 33 and 34 and also our model A have them on,
money well spent.
Lawrie

[Fairlane500]

I tell people that a New Stock 97 and a Stromberg E Fire distributor with new coil and leads will fix most Flatheads for those who are not particulalrly mechanically minded or have resources to be.

[vincent]

Stromberg 97 is fitted and adjusted, it is a very high quality product. Works well, the carb responds exactly to my right foot. However, I think I lost a few horses at the upper end, the engine sounds a bit strangled. The old Holley felt a tiny little bit better in the higher revs. I will probably compare both performances with a GPS to see if my feelings are correct or not.
cheers, Harty

[Fairlane500]

Make sure its getting WOT have someone stand on it and see if the throttle opens fully