best way to adjust valves

[whizzernick]

I am now ready to adjust valves on a 1934 ford with adjustable lifters. there is a hole to stop lifter from turning. I am looking for the easy way.

[19Fordy]

The SEARCH function is your friend. Read anything that has the words adjust valves in it. There is also a neat little tool which indexes the valves for easy adjustment.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/searc...rchid=16341474

also

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FLATHE...kAAOSwnh5b8tx5

[JSeery]

I do them one at a time with the lifter on the heal. There are methods that have you adjust multiple valves at a time. I wouldn't do it that way, but if you do be sure you know the duration of the cam you are using and that none of the lifters are on a ramp.

[drolston]

That hole to block the lifter from turning makes the job a whole lot easier. With the piston at the top of the compression stroke, neither valve in that cylinder is on any ramp. Start with any cylinder and then move to the next cylinder in the firing order and rotate the crank in its running direction to get that piston to the top of its' compression stroke.

[whizzernick]

my problem is how do i know when piston is at tdc .the heads are still on.

[bluardun]

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With the heads on, and the sparkplugs out, rotate the engine clockwise. With your finger over the sparkplug hole. The instant the piston is at top dead center the (air) pressure pushing against your finger will change to sucking. Too easy, and very accurate.

[eicke]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo

This worked to be easiest but the timing cover has to be off. Thanks Mart!

[JSeery]

I wouldn't attempt setting the valves without a TDC pointer and marker on the crankshaft pulley. It is fairly easy and quick to establish. Pull the plugs, insert a stop into the number one cylinder (anything soft will do, like a zip-tie large end). Make a pointer to attach to the front of the engine that is close to the pulley. Rotate the engine gently until the piston contacts the stop. Mark the pulley with something like chalk at the point of the pointer you installed. Rotate the engine in the opposite directing until the piston contacts the stop again and mark the pulley again. Half way between the two marks is TDC. Repeat the rotations a couple of times to double check and you have TDC.

Now, remove the stop from the cylinder and rotate the engine (normal directing of rotation) until it is on the compression stroke (air is coming out the sparkplug hole) and the pulley is lining up with the TDC mark. Now set the valves for the number one cylinder.

Rotate the engine 90 degrees and set the next set of valves in the firing order. Then rotate 90 and set the next set all the way through the timing order (two complete rotations of the crankshaft).

This doesn't put the lifter on the heel of the lobe, but it will work (at least on a stock cam).

Some examples of the pulley pointer.

[frnkeore]

My dad had a tool that bolted on, in place of the dist. It was made of aluminum and It had a wheel, about 4/5" in diameter and a index mark. It had 8 locations to index to and what valves were to be adjusted at those marks.

I don't have it now, it was lost, many years ago. Also, I don't remember who made it but, I haven't seen one, since then.

It could have been a Snap On tool, as he had almost all Snap On tools. I still have his tool box and many of his tools from the '40's.

[cas3]

good ol' bruce lancaster showed us how to make one in one of his many tutorials. god bless the man

[Tinker]

Too think before the 8ba, we didn't have light marks to know what was going on, ohhh we didn't have timing guns. Few old posts on doing so. I use the timing bolt one with a file mark on the crank.


doing the zip tie method is a fine method. Head off with a dial indicator is better.


The two piston offset intake, exhaust adjustment of cam has been sort of explained.

[Tom-MI]

This is the valve sequencing I have used for years! Simple and accurate

When you pull off the intake manifold you will find one of the combinations listed on the left side of the chart. As an example you if find an “a” set opened you use all of the “a” sequencing. If it is a “b” use all the “b” sequencing and so-forth.

Hope this helps. Tom

Sequencing:

Valves Opened - Adjust these

a) 4X -- 1N ---> 3X- 3N- 8N- 6N- 7X- 2X

b) 8X – 5N ---> 1X- 7N- 6N- 7X- 3N- 2X

c) 6X – 4N ---> 5X- 2N- 1X- 7N- 3N- 2X


a) 3X – 8N ---> 1X- 7N- 5X- 2N- 4X- 1N

b) 6N – 7X ---> 5X- 2N- 4X- 1N- 8X- 5N

c) 3N – 2X ---> 4X - 1N- 8X- 5N- 6X- 4N


a) 1X – 7N ---> 8X- 5N- 6X- 4N

b) 5X – 2N ---> 6X- 4N- 3X- 8N

c) 4X – 1N ---> 3X- 8N- 6N- 7X

Hope this helps

Tom
...

[Tinker]

Well not totally Tom. I know if the 1 intake is closed the 6 exhaust is open. I'll take some time to digress what you posted.

[JSeery]

I always find it interesting how difficult these methods can become! Just put the lifter on the heel of the cam and adjust that valve!!

[prpmmp]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I always find it interesting how difficult these methods can become! Just put the lifter on the heel of the cam and adjust that valve!!

This!! To help you to put the lifter on the heel of the cam, Set the intake lifter when the exhaust valve(lifter) starts to open, Set the exhaust lifter when the intake(lifter) starts to close. This is done on one cylinder at a time! Pete

[Mart]

Ok. Listen carefully.

Take all the plugs out.

Turn the engine and watch the exhaust valve on No.6. As it just closes and you see the inlet valve just start to move, adjust both valves on No.1.

Here's the firing order. 15486372

Turn the motor and as you approach 90 degrees crank movement watch No.3 exhaust valve. As this closes and the inlet just starts to open adjust both valves on No.5.

Turn 90 and look at the firing order for the next valve to watch and which ones to adjust.

In this case the next ones would be watch 7 adjust 4.

I'll write it out..

Watch: 63721548
Adjust: 15486372

That's how I would do it. It's basically the in car version of the method in the video. You can see the valves from the tappet chest.

Mart.

[V8COOPMAN]

I'm gonna go cook another batch of popcorn for this one, too! DD

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

I'm gonna go cook another batch of popcorn for this one, too! DD

It's like beating a dead horse, so really no reason to comment on it, I shouldn't have in the first place!

Unless it's a stock original cam, I would start by degreeing the cam, so that sorta negates all of this anyway.

[whizzernick]

Thank you all for lots of ways to adjust valves. I should have said that I wanted an easy foolproof way. I found a way that works good for me. first I needed a way to turn over motor. I used a battery with cables to starter with a modern solenoid and a push button to jog motor.
I then removed plugs. This next part took time to find out the best and easy way to get TDC on each cylinder. The method I found was to have 3 separate feeler gauges .012 a .013 and a .014 . Next starting at #1 cylinder I turn motor over till i could insert .012 feeler gauge between valve and lifter . Then I jog motor around to the loosest spot that the .012 moves in and out . That spot is TDC

This is the best and easy way to get to TDC . I then try other feeler gauge to

find out exactly what I have. Then I can adjust if needed to clearance I want.
This is a method that works when motor is still in car and you don't want to remove too many parts.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by frnkeore

My dad had a tool that bolted on, in place of the dist. It was made of aluminum and It had a wheel, about 4/5" in diameter and a index mark. It had 8 locations to index to and what valves were to be adjusted at those marks.

I don't have it now, it was lost, many years ago. Also, I don't remember who made it but, I haven't seen one, since then.

It could have been a Snap On tool, as he had almost all Snap On tools. I still have his tool box and many of his tools from the '40's.

I have this tool. A couple of companies made them. I'll try to post a pict of it. It's a neat tool to have.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by cas3

good ol' bruce lancaster showed us how to make one in one of his many tutorials. god bless the man

Yep. Out of a tuna can

[tubman]

Originally Posted by frnkeore

My dad had a tool that bolted on, in place of the dist. It was made of aluminum and It had a wheel, about 4/5" in diameter and a index mark. It had 8 locations to index to and what valves were to be adjusted at those marks.

I don't have it now, it was lost, many years ago. Also, I don't remember who made it but, I haven't seen one, since then.

It could have been a Snap On tool, as he had almost all Snap On tools. I still have his tool box and many of his tools from the '40's.

There was a guy on the H.A.M.B a couple of years ago that sold a similar tool. It was an aluminum disc (about 4-5" in diameter). One side was for 8BA's and the other side was for the earlier engines. I bought one because I want to support guys that make things like this. Quite frankly, it was nice, but there are easier ways to do this.

[Mart]

Originally Posted by whizzernick

Then I jog motor around to the loosest spot that the .012 moves in and out . That spot is TDC

This is the best and easy way to get to TDC .

Is it? I don't think so. there is no loosest spot that denotes TDC. The base circle is a circle. There should not be any significant change in gap at any point of the circle.

Not trying to be a clever clogs, but I think you made an incorrect assumption.

Not being able to turn the motor by hand is a disadvantage.

Mart.

[frnkeore]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I have this tool. A couple of companies made them. I'll try to post a pict of it. It's a neat tool to have.

Tim, if you have the time, I'd really like to see that tool.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Mart

Ok. Listen carefully.

Take all the plugs out.

Turn the engine and watch the exhaust valve on No.6. As it just closes and you see the inlet valve just start to move, adjust both valves on No.1.

Here's the firing order. 15486372

Turn the motor and as you approach 90 degrees crank movement watch No.3 exhaust valve. As this closes and the inlet just starts to open adjust both valves on No.5.

Turn 90 and look at the firing order for the next valve to watch and which ones to adjust.

In this case the next ones would be watch 7 adjust 4.

I'll write it out..

Watch: 63721548
Adjust: 15486372

That's how I would do it. It's basically the in car version of the method in the video. You can see the valves from the tappet chest.

Mart.

Mart, I get the cylinder at a time. It's clear as mud. Best to do one at a time I'm guessing.

[Tim Ayers]

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Originally Posted by frnkeore

Tim, if you have the time, I'd really like to see that tool.

OK, I’ll try to post Picts. They’ve been acting funny lately.

[frnkeore]

Thank you, very much.

[Mart]

Here's one from back in the day.. Acra cam.

[Tim Ayers]

Mine is a Lee Tool Co.

[Pete]

Somebody should write a book on how to adjust valves the easiest way. Only problem with that is the book would be as thick as the King James dictionary and 90% of the info would be wrong. The key word here is “EASIEST”. In this case, the easiest is also foolproof.

Here is another way to do it.
Turn the engine until #1 exhaust is 20% open, then adjust #3 exhaust.
Turn engine till #8 intake is open 10%, then adjust the #6 exhaust.
Turn engine till #2 exhaust is open 50%, then adjust the fuel pump lobe.
Follow this pattern til all valves are fubar and then stop and have a beer
while you contemplate this joke.

[37 Cab]

I have always done the exhaust just opening do intake.. Intake just closing do exhaust method. Been doing it that way all my life.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by 37 Cab

I have always done the exhaust just opening do intake.. Intake just closing do exhaust method. Been doing it that way all my life.

A lot of people get away with that.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Pete

Somebody should write a book on how to adjust valves the easiest way. Only problem with that is the book would be as thick as the King James dictionary and 90% of the info would be wrong. The key word here is “EASIEST”. In this case, the easiest is also foolproof.

Here is another way to do it.
Turn the engine until #1 exhaust is 20% open, then adjust #3 exhaust.
Turn engine till #8 intake is open 10%, then adjust the #6 exhaust.
Turn engine till #2 exhaust is open 50%, then adjust the fuel pump lobe.
Follow this pattern til all valves are fubar and then stop and have a beer
while you contemplate this joke.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Pete

Somebody should write a book on how to adjust valves the easiest way. Only problem with that is the book would be as thick as the King James dictionary and 90% of the info would be wrong. The key word here is “EASIEST”. In this case, the easiest is also foolproof.

Here is another way to do it.
Turn the engine until #1 exhaust is 20% open, then adjust #3 exhaust.
Turn engine till #8 intake is open 10%, then adjust the #6 exhaust.
Turn engine till #2 exhaust is open 50%, then adjust the fuel pump lobe.
Follow this pattern til all valves are fubar and then stop and have a beer
while you contemplate this joke.

Dang it, I need the timing card for my fuel pump lobe. Seems Potvin forgot that one.

[JSeery]

I like Pete's method, seems the most straight forward.

[whizzernick]

Any one who does not like my method does not have to use it. I found this method to be fast and foolproof FOR ME. I posted the method as one way to adjust valves. I DISCOVERED THE METHOD BY ACCIDENT

Yes I could dismantle motor and maybe get a more perfect valve adjustment. I do say MAYBE.

This forum is to inform and (for me ) to get a lot of ways to do certain automotive things. This forum most of the time works for me. THANKS TO THE PEOPLE WHO RESPOND TO IT.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by whizzernick

Any one who does not like my method does not have to use it. I found this method to be fast and foolproof FOR ME. I posted the method as one way to adjust valves. I DISCOVERED THE METHOD BY ACCIDENT

Yes I could dismantle motor and maybe get a more perfect valve adjustment. I do say MAYBE.

This forum is to inform and (for me ) to get a lot of ways to do certain automotive things. This forum most of the time works for me. THANKS TO THE PEOPLE WHO RESPOND TO IT.

Not to criticize your method, but it sure doesn't sound easy or straight forward to me. Finding TDC on an engine still in the car doesn't require removing anything other than the spark plugs. Once you have TDC for the number 1 cylinder, TDC for all of the other cylinders is every 90 degrees in the firing order.

[whizzernick]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Not to criticize your method, but it sure doesn't sound easy or straight forward to me. Finding TDC on an engine still in the car doesn't require removing anything other than the spark plugs. Once you have TDC for the number 1 cylinder, TDC for all of the other cylinders is every 90 degrees in the firing order.

Have you tried my method ?



How do you find TDC ? How do you turn motor 90 degrees ?

[JSeery]

No, I haven't. But I'm not much interested in any of these so-called short-cuts. I adjust/check the lifters on all of the engines I work on with the lifter on the heel of the lobe. I start with a degree wheel and check the cam timing. You need a TDC marking and pointer to start with. It seems the easiest and most accurate to me. But, if you like your method, use it.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by whizzernick

Have you tried my method ?



How do you find TDC ? How do you turn motor 90 degrees ?

Surely, if you've gone to the trouble and expense of installing adjustable lifters, you took the time to find TDC on #1, and marked the pulley as such WITH pointer. Bump engine over gingerly with starter to get each cylinder close, then 'rock' it in 3rd gear to sneak each 90 degree movement up to the money mark. Easy peasy! DD

[glennpm]

Hi,


Here's the link to the tool. If you have a crab type distributor, it doesn't work well. The set screw hole was not drilled properly on the one I bought. I fixed it but it's not worth the bother IMHO.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FLATHE...kAAOSwnh5b8tx5

Originally Posted by frnkeore

Tim, if you have the time, I'd really like to see that tool.

[GOSFAST]

We've found the best way here for us is to just following the firing order, turning the unit every 90*, we mark the pulley in 4 quadrants AFTER locating the #1 firing position!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I can give you a "tip" also when working with a fresh build. We adjust all 16 valves (one at a time) during the "mock-up" period (using some "checking" springs) where we can turn the cam by hand (no crank/pistons installed yet). You can get all the valves close enough to the actual setting needed with very little effort. This does NOT help on any already built/running units.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Hi,


Here's the link to the tool. If you have a crab type distributor, it doesn't work well. The set screw hole was not drilled properly on the one I bought. I fixed it but it's not worth the bother IMHO.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FLATHE...kAAOSwnh5b8tx5

That's the same one I have. After receiving it and looking at it, I'll probably never use it, but I like to support the hobby.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by tubman

After receiving it and looking at it, I'll probably never use it, but I like to support the hobby.

You could REALLY support the "hobby" hugely by sending funds for me to purchase this little '40 coupe. A PM will get ya my mailing address for your check right pronto. DD

[JSeery]

If anyone wants to see that it looks like.

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by whizzernick

How do you find TDC ? How do you turn motor 90 degrees ?

Believe I covered the "finding TDC" in detail in post #8.

And for how do you turn the motor 90 degrees, the same way you would turn the motor for any other method of setting the valves.

Install a pointer near the crank pulley. Make a permanent mark on the pulley. Use chalk (or anything handy) to mark the pulley every 90 degrees (that is in quarters). Start with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Then work your way through the firing order every 90 degrees.

I agree with GoFast, the best way is one valve at a time with the lifter on the heel of the cam. But you can take some shortcuts if you are not working with a high performance cam and/or using a stock cam. To me it is just easier and quicker in the long run to do it in a know accurate method. Doing it once is quicker and easier to me than taking a chance on doing it again.

[frnkeore]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Hi,


Here's the link to the tool. If you have a crab type distributor, it doesn't work well. The set screw hole was not drilled properly on the one I bought. I fixed it but it's not worth the bother IMHO.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FLATHE...kAAOSwnh5b8tx5

Thank you, Glenn but, that is not anywhere close to the one my dad had.

His was most likely, die cast aluminum (all smooth contours) (metal was white so, it could have been zink, also), the degree wheel (only marked for cylinder locations and valves) was machined and about 1/2" wide, with markings, so that you read it from above, the index line area, was also machined to match the wheel. The wheel was about the same diameter as a crab dist cap.

There was no set up time, it bolted in place of the dist and it had a off set key, just like the dist and was no harder to use, than it would be to set the points on a crab dist.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

You could REALLY support the "hobby" hugely by sending funds for me to purchase this little '40 coupe. A PM will get ya my mailing address for your check right pronto. DD

Send a check to a guy who lives on the "East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON" and has an aeroplane for an avatar? Yeah, like that will happen. I will admit that you have developed your taste in automobiles to the point that you would seem to prefer a '40 Standard over a DeLuxe.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

You could REALLY support the "hobby" hugely by sending funds for me to purchase this little '40 coupe. A PM will get ya my mailing address for your check right pronto. DD

The check is on the stage coach.

[glennpm]

Hi,

I do it like Gary, start at TDC of #1 adjust, then rotate by hand wrench on crank nut (spark plugs out!) Attached are my pointer and markings on the main pulley. The long mark at each degree position is the one to stop at. The other hash marks tell me whether its 90, 180 or 270°.

Still wondering if someone has some magic when using the adjustable lifters with "tool", I use that loosely ;-) I'll post the thread where I modified the "tools".


Here it is:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...6&postcount=40

Glenn

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Hi,

I do it like Gary, start at TDC of #1 adjust, then rotate by hand wrench on crank nut (spark plugs out!) Attached are my pointer and markings on the main pulley. The long mark at each degree position is the one to stop at. The other hash marks tell me whether its 90, 180 or 270°.

Still wondering if someone has some magic when using the adjustable lifters with "tool", I use that loosely ;-) I'll post the thread where I modified the "tools".


Here it is:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...6&postcount=40Glenn

Hi Glenn, it's really the easiest way for us here, but one important item must be noted, it has to be #1 in the firing position, not at the end of the exhaust stroke?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. The "TDC" mark on the damper shows the #1 piston to be up all the time but it doesn't necessarily mean it's on the firing stroke. Working on an assembled unit makes it bit more difficult to know!

[glennpm]

Hi Gary,


Yes understood on having two TDC positions, one for #1 and the next rotation of 360° on the crank pulley, for #6. My fifth picture "Rotor Position for #1 at TDC.jpg (5 of 6), shows that the rotor is in position to fire the #1 spark plug wire.


Best regards,
Glenn

[Lawrie]

I do mine by turning engine until the valve is fully open, then turn one complete revolution adjust that valve, do the others ,sure it takes a while longer but it means every valve is on the heal of the cam.
Lawrie

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

I do mine by turning engine until the valve is fully open, then turn one complete revolution adjust that valve, do the others ,sure it takes a while longer but it means every valve is on the heal of the cam.
Lawrie

But that is way too simple. No chance of screwing up. Takes the fun out of doing them over again.

[Mart]

WhizzerNick asked for the best way. There are many ways and the best way is the one you are happy to use.
Everyone has their own personal "best" way.
Mart.