Gas Pedal Travel

[19Fordy]

Just in case you want a piece to practice on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15549170019...17256d80f900d0

IDEA: What would happen if you shortened the linkage rod that fits into the bottom of the gas pedal and lengthened the rod that attaches to the carb?
A little experimentation may be in order. Just curious----Is your engine running so you can see how much the present linkage needs to be modified?

[38convsedan]

19Fordy—let me know if your friend uses the Lokar pedal/linkage as that’s one I’m considering….
I think shortening the pedal linkage will just move pedal closer to floorboard without increasing travel.
If I lengthen the carb arm I get closer to WOT but lose idle setting as arm returns… there isn’t enough travel in the linkage to reach idle setting (carb lever retracted to idle setting) AND WOT (carb lever fully extended to WOT).

[19Fordy]

OK. I will email my friend and ask him about his Lokar purchase. Will get back to you.
Jim

[38convsedan]

Thank you Jim!

[cadillac512]

If you need more travel at the carb shaft without changing the pedal travel you must either shorten the lever on the carb or lengthen the lever at the firewall. Bending the lever "up" at the firewall to lengthen it is a good idea, and maybe also bending the ball upward at the carb lever to shorten it.


Terry

[glennpm]

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Originally Posted by glennpm

You could protect parts with a canvas welding blanket and a wet rag around the throttle spring, heat it up and twist the ball end.

This would be a great application for an induction heater.

https://tinyurl.com/scpj4suv

Glenn

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by 38convsedan

19Fordy—let me know if your friend uses the Lokar pedal/linkage as that’s one I’m considering….
I think shortening the pedal linkage will just move pedal closer to floorboard without increasing travel.
If I lengthen the carb arm I get closer to WOT but lose idle setting as arm returns… there isn’t enough travel in the linkage to reach idle setting (carb lever retracted to idle setting) AND WOT (carb lever fully extended to WOT).

--so it appears the reduced gas pedal travel is a function of the lower half of the accelerator linkage. Something is not correct resulting in reduced pedal travel as the lower linkage is contacting the engine block at the oil line to canister boss.

Hi 38,

I think you will be better off resolving the interference as I posted above.
https://tinyurl.com/scpj4suv
You could buy an induction heater for probably half the cost of a pricey Lokar setup plus avoid the work and possible hassle to install it. You would also have a nice tool for your collection :-)

The stock throttle assembly mounted to the firewall is a bell crank assembly made to give adequate pull on the throttle rod to the carb. The throttle rod then connected to another lever on the carb which could be extended as Jim has posted clear details for. Changing throttle rod lengths won't fix your problem as you've noted, only interference resolution.

Glenn

[kurt v]

Are you sure you have the correct throttle assembly for your car ?

[glennpm]

BTW, I had to rotate the ball end of the linkage for my 1932 roadster. With two 97s, I had interference with the linkage between the 2 carbs so I cut the outside firewall part of the linkage and welded it such that the ball was 180° rotated.

Stock linkage



Ball end Rotated 180°

[Terry,OH]

There is no need to heat the firewall linkage to bend slightly unless your looking for the very end ball to go vertical. If you slide a long small diameter box wrench over the vertical shaft you can bend it slightly.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by 38convsedan

Thank you Jim!

8/19/23: 10 AM I just sent you a PM with the LOKAR info. Go to Lokar.com and look around.
Pedal: XFMG-6098
Cable: TC-1000U36
Bracket: SRK-4000

My friend's 40 is using a Holley 390 and a blower, so the LoKar components he uses might be different from yours. For instance, the cable length. Suggest you first call Lokar and verify what components you need for your situation.

[38convsedan]

Problem solved. I’m fortunate to have an Early Ford V8 expert, Tom Roche, nearby. He stopped by and did several things to achieve full gas pedal travel and idle-to-WOT at the carb.
He massaged (by bending up) bottom of firewall where lower throttle arm passes through. Next, he bent the lower arm over and down so it now misses the block when fully depressed. Finally, we grabbed the lower arm about half way down with vise grips while holding the upper half of lower arm with a bar, and bending the lower half of lower arm down to provide clearance from hitting floor board. All is good now.
I’m so grateful to Tom and the many others who took time to share their expertise and suggestions! This truly is an amazing community!!

[glennpm]

Great, glad you have it sorted out!

So all this was done on the inside of the car?

[19Fordy]

Wow! 38, that's great! So, are we correcting saying that someone had earlier bent that accelerator arm mechanism and floor?

Really glad you had your buddy Tom who could solve the problem. Be sure to take Tom out to a nice lunch or dinner. We need more problem solvers like Tom.

[Angledrive]

The real issue is the engine is raised up in the front a little more than it should be because of oil pan clearance with the tie rods. That is causing the the problem at the firewall. We just tweeked the pedal linkage here and there and made it work. I'll help him with the steering linkage problem later. It is hitting the oil pan at times.

[glennpm]

Good, thanks for the clarification.

Glenn