Flathead project

[LSJUNIPER]

Found this on line, solid retainers are the better choice...

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red...e_talk_16.html

[LSJUNIPER]

This may seem like a silly question, but does this rope seal look like it was installed right?? (See first pic) When I put the crankshaft in it didn't fit right. I have a feeling I didn't press the rope seal on far enough. It looks like one of the raised areas on the crank fits into the rope seal area and rides aginst the seal?? (See pic 2) Thank for the help..

[Bluebell]

To use a rope seal in this motor you need a new seal carrier (upper and lower half) and to have the crank grinder remove the slinger from your crank.
I think that is the correct info.

See the inside shape of the seal carrier. Go to Vanpelts. about $10.00 each half.

[LSJUNIPER]

In 1939 there wasn't a rear rope seal, just the oil slinger???

[flatheadz-forever]

looks great do you plan on keeping the rest stock? like heads/intake/headers?

[LSJUNIPER]

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Flatheadz-forever,
I want to use new aluminum heads with the 3 carb intake and headers.. I also want to use the crab style distributor conversion...

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by LSJUNIPER

In 1939 there wasn't a rear rope seal, just the oil slinger???

Yes.

[LSJUNIPER]

Thanks all!

[Bluebell]

Here is a better shot of the seal carrier

[Bluebell]

From RedsHeaders.

What can you do if you want a rope rear main seal in your 1932-41 flathead V8?
If you are working on a 1932-41 flathead engine that is late enough to have the pot metal labyrinth seal inserts, both top and bottom, it is easy to make the change. You may just change the crankshaft and seal pieces for the later parts.
If your engine is a 221 cubic inch, you will probably want to stay with a 1.998" journal and early full floating rods. The rods for 2.138" journals will not pass through the 3 1/16" cylinder bores.
You can use a 1949-53 crankshaft in the early engines. You would have to turn the main journals down to 2.398" to fit in the mid-1936 through 1938 block. You also have to relieve either the block or the crankshaft at the rear of the front main and both sides of the center main journal. If it is a 4" stroke crankshaft with the rod journals offset ground on 4 1/8" stroke to 1.998" size, you can use 21A and/or 91A rods which will pass through the 3 1/16" cylinder bores.
When mixing crankshafts, rods, and blocks, use the correct bearing set for the housings (block and rods) in the correct undersize for the journals of the crankshaft.
For the 1932 through mid-1936 blocks, you can grind the crankshaft rear labyrinth slinger away to a 2.498" surface. Then install an upper seal retainer for a rope and an aftermarket adaptor type seal retainer in the main cap. That way you can use the stock rope seals.

[LSJUNIPER]

Wow!!

[LSJUNIPER]

Can loctite be used in the place of the wire used on the crank and rods?

[pistonburner]

check where the intake sits it is my understanding a 41 block is raised were the intake sits and a 39-40 is flat also a 41 I believe has core plugs in the oil pad rails

[pistonburner]

looks like a 41

[LSJUNIPER]

Timing cover,on!

GEDC0001.JPG

[Bluebell]

Can I ask what you did about the rear main seal?

[LSJUNIPER]

I put it back together the way it was done originally in 1939.

[flatheadz-forever]

very nice best of luck

[LSJUNIPER]

Just finished adjusting the valves. I used one of those lifter wrenches from Speedway Motors. I had a difficult time at first, the tool kept slipping out of the holes in the adjustable lifters. Check out the pic, it shows what I put together as a tool to help hold the lifter wrench in place, simple but effective. Hope this will help any one else who may have the same prob with lifter wrenches slipping out of position...

valve.jpg

[LSJUNIPER]

Next, will be putting the pistons into the block.....


pistons.jpg