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Old 01-20-2014, 09:19 PM   #1
GearRat
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Default GearRat's '35

Hey Guys!

I'm making this my official project blog for the 1935 5 window coupe we inherited from my Grandfather. Yesterday we removed the engine to make sure we get it cleaned out right, and to have better access to other matters that need attention. Anywhere oil had settled, oil pan, casting indentations, etc., the oil had become coal like. I'm not sure if in my grandfather's old age he had used some kind of additive that caused this, but we are tending to it as best we can. Carburetor cleaner seems to do the trick, turning the substance back into an oil like consistency. Oil pan is clean and painted, and lifter galley cleaned out as well.

I'm not completely sure what all these casting numbers on the block mean, so if anyone has some insight I'm very interested in knowing more of this car's history.

Thank you,

-Garrett
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fordpan5.jpg (38.4 KB, 210 views)
File Type: jpg noeng.jpg (88.9 KB, 284 views)
File Type: jpg engstnd.jpg (79.8 KB, 291 views)
File Type: jpg engstmp.jpg (102.9 KB, 218 views)
File Type: jpg enghead.jpg (113.4 KB, 218 views)
File Type: jpg valves.jpg (75.3 KB, 278 views)
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:38 AM   #2
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Good luck with your project. Having a car that's been handed down through the family makes it that much more special.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:58 AM   #3
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Along with the later engine, looks like you got a later steering box. Is the light switch still on the wheel center? I have a complete '39 column in your neck of the woods if not.

And oh, please take the engine off that stand immediately. Do a search about flathead bell housings breaking for an explanation why.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:09 AM   #4
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Quote:
Originally Posted by GearRat View Post
Hey Guys!

I'm making this my official project blog for the 1935 5 window coupe we inherited from my Grandfather. Yesterday we removed the engine to make sure we get it cleaned out right, and to have better access to other matters that need attention. Anywhere oil had settled, oil pan, casting indentations, etc., the oil had become coal like. I'm not sure if in my grandfather's old age he had used some kind of additive that caused this, but we are tending to it as best we can. Carburetor cleaner seems to do the trick, turning the substance back into an oil like consistency. Oil pan is clean and painted, and lifter galley cleaned out as well.

I'm not completely sure what all these casting numbers on the block mean, so if anyone has some insight I'm very interested in knowing more of this car's history.

Thank you,

-Garrett
You have a 42-48 engine their not a 35. Yea also get it off that stand,i see the chains but to work on it you must remove the picker and ALL the weight is on the bell bolts,known to break.Watch your toes. ken ct.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:45 AM   #5
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Howdy GearRat, Thanks for starting the thread and posting the photos.

Got any 'before' pictures of the oil pan? Any estimate of the volume of the gunk that was in the pan, 1/2 cup, etc? (Collecting data on the theory that solids in the pan and other places are one of the reasons people say 5qts of oil makes their dipsticks read high.)

-VT/JeffH
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:51 PM   #6
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Hey Guys,

Thanks for the warning about the bell housing. I'll definitely keep the hoist attached and take more load off of the bell housing. I knew the engine wasn't a '35 but I didn't know exactly what year it was. The steering gear being different is intriguing, my dad said my grandpa had to do some kind of mod to get rid of a lot of play in the steering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VeryTangled View Post
Howdy GearRat, Thanks for starting the thread and posting the photos.

Got any 'before' pictures of the oil pan? Any estimate of the volume of the gunk that was in the pan, 1/2 cup, etc? (Collecting data on the theory that solids in the pan and other places are one of the reasons people say 5qts of oil makes their dipsticks read high.)

-VT/JeffH
Yes, here are some before photos of the pan. Note: all the stuff you see in the pan is solid, but i'm not sure of the amount of junk. I'm sure it would skew oil readings though.

Also, have a question. How do I go about removing the oil pump?

-Garrett
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File Type: jpg fordpanoff.jpg (64.2 KB, 131 views)
File Type: jpg sludge.jpg (79.1 KB, 135 views)
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:53 PM   #7
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Good idea on doing a project blog so you can keep everthing in one thread. Others who make many posts on the same project make it difficult to follow what they have done or have not done. The 59 series engines are dated '45-'48 in US passenger car production. As someone else mentioned, the 59 blocks with 3-1/16" bores were supplied as service replacements for earlier 24 stud engines. Just as the '37 blocks were supplied as service replacements for the earlier 21 stud engines. The 59 on top of the bell and the numbers/letters cast in heads are the only thing that means anything to most of us today. The steering box is '37-'48 which usually steers much better than earlier boxes because of the rolling sector gear design. The lifter valley looks clean, wonder what you used to clean that? You could make some kind of support for the front of the engine on that stand but would be better to use an exhaust manifold outlet mounting adaptor. The crud buildup like you have in the bottom of your pan is probably why there are so mamy debates here on how many quarts of oil these engines will actually hold based on dip stick readings. Keep posting progress with pictures. Looking forward to helping you with any answers to your questions that I can provide.
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Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 01-22-2014 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:12 PM   #8
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Hi GearRat,

John beat me to the punch. I've been researching my casting numbers and have run across a lot of info. The following site has some info on the number reference to year.
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/bboogaar/engine.htm
Your engine looks to be a '45, or at least the heads with "59A" and the following numbers usually indicate a part number.

Looks like you have a fun project, cool to be handed down in the family and hope you get a chance to pass it on eventually.

Good Luck!
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan View Post
The lifter valley looks clean, wonder what you used to clean that?
I used a lot of carb cleaner to liquefy the nasty gunk, let it sit and dry out, and then took the gunk out in manageable chunks. Then more carb cleaner, some rags to get the smaller stuff, and then the air gun to blow the rest of it out.

Just got the oil pump out, it was stuck in there pretty good. More of that gunky stuff to be cleaned, but after that the engine is close to being put back together.

Thanks Guys!

-Garrett
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:27 AM   #10
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

GearRat: Before you put the 59 back together--can make some checks ?

Confirm that it's a 3 3/16 bore - oversize?
Read con rod part #s ---- trying to confirm rod journals are 2.139 " , not 2"

That 12-1-1948 casting date on the head makes me think replacement part rather
than factory. If a replacement engine from parts it could be a 221 ci "59" like
myself and others have found

Just trying to confirm what you have.
Thanks
Gene Tulsa
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:29 AM   #11
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

GearRat: Con rod # to confirm the 100 Hp 59 crankshaft is 99A or 29A ( may
be stamped 99A).
90 hp 221 crank is 91A or 21A { may be stamped 91A}
Enjoy 35!
Gene Tulsa
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:12 PM   #12
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

It also looks like it has valve rotators, witch wasn't available until late 51. someone with better eye sight might take alook.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:01 PM   #13
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Quote:
Originally Posted by G32 View Post
GearRat: Con rod # to confirm the 100 Hp 59 crankshaft is 99A or 29A ( may
be stamped 99A).
90 hp 221 crank is 91A or 21A { may be stamped 91A}
Enjoy 35!
Gene Tulsa
Hey Gene,

The # I found on the rod ends was 99, but i'm not sure if there was an "A" by them or a triangle. The bore from what I measured was around 3.218", mind you that probably isn't very accurate, but it is a larger bore. My grandfather had this engine rebuilt in the 1980's so chances are there were a few up-grades like valve rotators and such.

-Garrett
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:51 PM   #14
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

At this point i think you should clean the block just me
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:32 PM   #15
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

OL,Ron I noticed those rotor valve when I first looked at the pic. I was going to say something about but you beat me to it. The engine has been rebuilt, The valve train is late 51-2-3 the bore 3. 218 is .030 over std. Gene, good luck cleaning the engine. To me I couldn't stand not stripping the engine and having the block backed or a good cleaning tank job and make sure the water jacket is cleaned out good. Walt
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:56 PM   #16
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

#7 exhaust valve rotator ?
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:31 PM   #17
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Walt, I wasn't sure, glad you checked it out. I met a driend of yours from North Vermont. Howard. He picked up a steel bell housing for me and dropped it off this morning. Also showed me his SBC distributor built by Charley NY. Really nice unit. Bubba has some real competition there.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:36 PM   #18
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

Hey Guys!

Progress has been slow, but the engine is coming along. Just a few more things to take care of and then we can prepare to get the engine back in place.

Question: This car looks to be running a 9" clutch. Do any of ya'll have part numbers for the disc and pressure plate you're running? And where do you recommend buying the parts for this clutch?

Thank you,

-Garrett
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File Type: jpg flathead2.jpg (65.2 KB, 68 views)
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Old 05-16-2014, 05:26 PM   #19
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

fort wayne clutch has the best clutch assemblys...usa the rest sell china garbage
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:02 PM   #20
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Default Re: GearRat's '35

You could send your clutch & pressure plate as cores to Fort Wayne Clutch and have them rebuild those parts. Not that expensive for the peace of mind knowing you have quality parts made in the USA.
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